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I hate Boeshield T-9, need advice on rust issues...

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Forum topic by TheKingInYellow posted 1129 days ago 8123 views 2 times favorited 59 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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TheKingInYellow

233 posts in 2133 days


1129 days ago

Topic tags/keywords: rust boeshield removal

My one and half week old contractor’s saw is already developing some rust on the surface of the table despite using T-9 on it.

To be clear, after I set up the saw, I removed the Cosmoline with WD40 and disposable towels, made sure it was clean and then sprayed on the T-9. To get complete coverage it seemed like I would have to spray it very heavily, so I used some clean cotton rags and rubbed it into the surface although there was still clearly a wet layer on the table. I let it sit for about 45 minutes and then wiped off the excess with disposable towels.

Two days later and I already noticed some rusting. So, this time I put on a heavy coat, rubbed it in lightly with cotton rags and left the heavy coat on untouched for three days of curing. After three days, the surface was STILL tacky to the touch (and picking up dust like no tomorrow) so I wiped down the excess.

Another two days later and the surface is still kind of tacky. I tried to make a cut and it was actually grabbing the wood, and all the sawdust just stuck to the table. It’s supposed to be waxy but it’s almost gluey, oh and the rusting is getting WORSE.

Am I wrong or is this product HORRIBLE?! I am going to take it all of (hopefully WD40 will do it) and then I need to deal with the rust (not sure what to use) and then reseal it (not sure what to use). This is an unheated/uncooled garage shop so I know that isn’t helping matters, but there must be something I can do…

Can anyone suggest some products to try that I can get here in Winnipeg? We have a local LV store but they recommended the T-9 and I don’t know what else they carry.

Please help!

-- I'm just learning how to cut the stuff with some other stuff...


59 replies so far

View hokieman's profile

hokieman

162 posts in 2357 days


#1 posted 1129 days ago

Once you get it rust-free, try using some Johnson’s Paste Wax. I live in a somewhat humid area and using Johnson’s Paste Was works for me. No rust on my table saw and jointer.

View TheKingInYellow's profile

TheKingInYellow

233 posts in 2133 days


#2 posted 1129 days ago

I’ve heard good things about it but I have no idea where to get it in Winnipeg. I’ve looked!

-- I'm just learning how to cut the stuff with some other stuff...

View BlankMan's profile

BlankMan

1487 posts in 1956 days


#3 posted 1129 days ago

I use Bostik TopCote on all my cast iron table tops. Got a free can when I bought my UniSaw and thought nothing of it. But now after using it for years I’m sold, it does a good job keeping the table tops free of rust. And my shop is in the basement and in the summer being next to Lake Michigan the humidity is high, especially in the basement. I run a dehumidifier during the summer down there but still the humidity stays around 55%.

Oh and the water table is high, when digging post holes I hit water at 3 feet and when finally down to 4 feet it fills up a foot sometimes more that I have to vac out before cementing in the post. Just did 4 this year for trellis’s, same thing. Probably why my basement stays humid. And I’m at a high point in my neighborhood too.

-- -Curt, Milwaukee, WI

View ArtistryinWood's profile

ArtistryinWood

97 posts in 2290 days


#4 posted 1129 days ago

I second the Bostik Topcoat, been using it for years no rust and a slick table top. LV sells it.

http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=40952&cat=1,43415,43440&ap=1

Andrew

-- It seem's to me i could live my life, a lot better than i think i am. Andrew, Midland, Ont.

View davidroberts's profile

davidroberts

1002 posts in 2089 days


#5 posted 1129 days ago

For whatever reason, when I go to the Woodcraft store, I pass by the T-9 spray cans and pick one up, read it a few moments, set it down and move on. As Hokieman said above, J&J is cheap and it works, really well. After your initial application, just reapply lightly once a month or so and fugetaboutit. That’s been my experience, in the very hot and humid gulf coast.

-- God is great, wood is good. Let us thank Him for wood......and old hand tools.

View TheKingInYellow's profile

TheKingInYellow

233 posts in 2133 days


#6 posted 1129 days ago

I’d advise that you continue with the tradition of bypassing the T-9 cans!

Here’s the plan then: WD40 to take off the T-9 (I hope), Autosol to remove the surface rust, coat with TopCote, polish with Waxilit (silicone-free paste wax). Rewax monthly.

I’ll report back!

-- I'm just learning how to cut the stuff with some other stuff...

View SWM's profile

SWM

93 posts in 1661 days


#7 posted 1129 days ago

I know the T-9 says that it’s for everyday use, but I ran across a blog at highland woodworking a few weeks ago that dealt with all of these rust issues. It seemed to suggest that T-9 was more of a protectant to be used for the long term storage of tools, at least that’s how I enterpretted the material. I have used wd-40 to get “clean”, any visible rush will likely have to be removed abrasively. Here’s the article: http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/woodnews/may_2006/ask_the_staff_may.html

For my money, I think it’s tough to be just about any good ole paste was and some elbow grease.

-- Working on a retirement hobby, only 30 more years to practice!

View bigkev's profile

bigkev

197 posts in 1231 days


#8 posted 1129 days ago

Can’t beat the heat and humidity here in South Carolina. Good ole Johnson’s paste wax is the ticket. I do what Robert does and try to hit it about once a month or so. It really does what I need it to do and it is readily available.

-- Kevin, South Carolina

View BlankMan's profile

BlankMan

1487 posts in 1956 days


#9 posted 1129 days ago

Rockler and Woodcraft both sell TopCote too. When I’m in need some I usually pick it up at Rockler when I have a 20% off coupon. Always keep some on hand, think I have 2 cans at the moment.

I also have and use Top Saver Rust Remover and Lubricant to sometimes get the rust off. It’s sold in a kit but now I just buy it by itself. I’ll spray it on and put 400 grit on my 5” orbital sander and any rust comes off in no time. Kind of a wet sanding process.

-- -Curt, Milwaukee, WI

View TopamaxSurvivor's profile

TopamaxSurvivor

14612 posts in 2279 days


#10 posted 1129 days ago

I don’t know anything about Boeshield, but the WD-40 might be the problem. A chemist I used to know said it causes so many problems with rust, ect in machinery they would fire anyone caught using it at the plant where he worked. I use it for lube all the time. The combination of Boeshield over WD-40 might be your trouble. It is definitely not a solvent to remove other substances from metal. It will allow rusting over night. Just thought I would mention that even though you were not depending on it for that purpose.

-- "some old things are lovely, warm still with life ... of the forgotten men who made them." - D.H. Lawrence

View Bertha's profile

Bertha

12951 posts in 1296 days


#11 posted 1129 days ago

I use Kiwi neutral shoe polish. $.99 at the $.99 store. I’m sorry for your frustration. Do you have a dehumidifier in you shop? If not, a couple hundred bucks may save you a couple hundred headaches. A sincere good luck.

-- My dad and I built a 65 chev pick up.I killed trannys in that thing for some reason-Hog

View David Grimes's profile

David Grimes

2072 posts in 1243 days


#12 posted 1129 days ago

As Blankman just beat me to it: Rockler also sells the TopSaver kit from Emerson that includes both rust remover/lubricant AND the lubricant/wax. I have it and it works good well. I’ve only had to use it twice.

I also use Mothers California Gold Natural Formula Pure Carnauba Liquid Wax. It has no abrasive polish components, detergents, etc. AND is #1 Brazilian yellow carnauba wax (the hardest natural wax PERIOD) instead of beeswax blends. Johnson’s wax is a blend of Carnauba wax, paraffin, and sera microcristallina, with deodorized naptha as the carrier / solubilizer. Nothing at all wrong with that, as its shinier but not as hard / protective as the pure carnauba product.

-- If you're going to stir the pot, think BIG spoon or SMALL boat paddle. David Grimes, Georgia

View TopamaxSurvivor's profile

TopamaxSurvivor

14612 posts in 2279 days


#13 posted 1129 days ago

You could let mother nature take its course. My 35 yr old saw has a nice patina on the table ;-)) Browning is a preferred method of finishing Kentucky style rifles.

-- "some old things are lovely, warm still with life ... of the forgotten men who made them." - D.H. Lawrence

View TheKingInYellow's profile

TheKingInYellow

233 posts in 2133 days


#14 posted 1129 days ago

Lots of advice here thanks, sounds like I just need to get my sealing sorted out, here.

Dehumidification is not an option, this is not an enclosed shop, it’s an unheated garage.

-- I'm just learning how to cut the stuff with some other stuff...

View David Grimes's profile

David Grimes

2072 posts in 1243 days


#15 posted 1129 days ago

Bertha, I never woulda thunk about Kiwi. lol

Kiwi is Heavy Naptha, Stoddard solvent (an organic solvent that is paraffin-derived) and Benzene. So I won’t be using that as war paint anymore !

-- If you're going to stir the pot, think BIG spoon or SMALL boat paddle. David Grimes, Georgia

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