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Forum topic by papadan posted 06-26-2011 06:57 PM 1098 views 0 times favorited 7 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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3584 posts in 3331 days

06-26-2011 06:57 PM

Topic tags/keywords: planer resource tip trick

I met “mchuray” yesterday afternoon. He and his wife were passing through Louisville on their way to visit family up north. Mark had read the thread about welding cast iron and sent me a message asking if I would make a repair for him. He brought a cracked Stanley #71 with him and turned it over to me for repair. They will be coming back through this way in 2 weeks and this is a full one inch crack, I had better get busy! ;-) Maybe I should do a little tutorial on this project.

7 replies so far

View BlankMan's profile


1490 posts in 3315 days

#1 posted 06-26-2011 07:00 PM

Actually yeah, I’d like to know how you do it. TIG, MIG, stick? Be good to know the process.

-- -Curt, Milwaukee, WI

View lew's profile


12016 posts in 3718 days

#2 posted 06-26-2011 07:01 PM

Helping a friend is the greatest pleasure I know!!

-- Lew- Time traveler. Purveyor of the Universe's finest custom rolling pins.

View Karson's profile


35111 posts in 4363 days

#3 posted 06-26-2011 08:58 PM

Where are the pictures Dan. We got to know what is your starting point.

-- I've been blessed with a father who liked to tinker in wood, and a wife who lets me tinker in wood. Southern Delaware soon moving to Virginia †

View auggy53's profile


159 posts in 2642 days

#4 posted 06-27-2011 06:23 AM

i think that would be a good read . please do .

-- rick

View fussy's profile


980 posts in 3013 days

#5 posted 06-27-2011 07:23 AM

How do you intend to repair it? Years ago I worked for a company out of Scottown, Ohio—Precision Alloys Welding Supply ( The founder, Ken Lawson, was a genius (is? I hope he’s still with us). One of their products was Palco 808 cast iron electrodes. It has about 64,000psi tensil, but more importantly, has 40% elongation so pre-heating is unnecessary and cracking almost non-existant. It is easily machineable and color match is good. Easy to apply, but I would drill stop holes at either end of the crack and fill them as you cill the crack. I’ll see if I have any left. If I do and you’re interested pm me with your address and I’ll mail a stick or two. It would be 5/32” if I do and would run at 90 to 140 amps. Shouldn’t take but 1/4 stick or so.


-- Steve in KY. 44 years so far with my lovely bride. Think I'll keep her.

View papadan's profile


3584 posts in 3331 days

#6 posted 06-27-2011 12:08 PM

I will be taking pictures when I get started Karson. LOL I worked 83 hours last week and didn’t leave the house Sunday, too tired to think straight. Steve, I will be using a nickle rod and the crack is all the way through the section. I may give your rod a try sometime, will let you know and pick it up in person. I work in the Berea area quite often and was through there Thursday on a London run. :-)

View fussy's profile


980 posts in 3013 days

#7 posted 06-28-2011 07:10 AM


I found 2 cast iron sticks. One is 1/8” and the other is 5/32”. Both should be good even though they are OLD. I last used one about 5 years ago to weld up a exhaust manifold then weld a steel bracket to it. It still worked well, but I would bake them a little while @ about 160 or 175 degreees just in case they’ve absorbed moisture in the flux coating. Should be fine and either one should be more than enough. I found some really nice mild steel to that I’ll give you some. Let me know when you’rre coming through Thursday.


-- Steve in KY. 44 years so far with my lovely bride. Think I'll keep her.

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