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Vintage 4" finger remover(jointer)

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Forum topic by D_Allen posted 06-26-2011 04:48 AM 3287 views 0 times favorited 24 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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D_Allen

495 posts in 2248 days


06-26-2011 04:48 AM

Sort of a tool gloat for me. I have been wanting to find one of these for some time. Today I was in the right place at the right time. It has some surface rust that is cleaning up easily. All of the parts are there and the cutter head is solid and free. Blades look good too. It was mounted on a homemade cabinet stand with the original motor, which works good too. $75 might not be the best deal around but it works for me!
Now I won’t have to use my router table for most of the edge jointing.

-- Website is finally up and running....www.woodandwrite.com


24 replies so far

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philip marcou

262 posts in 2061 days


#1 posted 06-26-2011 07:09 AM

Nice…... but don’t mess it up with fingers etc after you’ve cleaned it up.
I have a NZ sort of copy of that machine which I have fitted carbide tipped knives to and so use it for jointing plywood as well.

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D_Allen

495 posts in 2248 days


#2 posted 06-26-2011 10:35 PM

philip, do you know if the 5/8×1/8 blades will fit this machine.
The blades actually measure .542” x .100. I was not able to find any reference to the blade size in either of the manuals I found online.

TIA.

-- Website is finally up and running....www.woodandwrite.com

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Bertha

13003 posts in 2157 days


#3 posted 06-26-2011 10:39 PM

Scoundrel! You have done well. Carbide, Phillip, must you? It makes a lot of sense really, to have a carbided machine at the ready for the rough stuff. Congratulations on your score D-Allen. It’s an attractive machine.

-- My dad and I built a 65 chev pick up.I killed trannys in that thing for some reason-Hog

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D_Allen

495 posts in 2248 days


#4 posted 06-27-2011 01:53 AM

It looks a little better now. I’m still not sure I want to paint it though.
I only did a slight adjustment on the 90 degree on the fence. It cuts well and most important…it doesn’t scream at me like some of my other machines.

-- Website is finally up and running....www.woodandwrite.com

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Tedstor

1625 posts in 2097 days


#5 posted 06-27-2011 02:19 AM

I have an old dog jointer myself. A 1960ish Craftsman 4 1/8”.
I like these dinosaurs. Even the 4” models are beastly hunks of iron, are virtually indestructable, and work incredibly well. I do want a 6-8” machine at some point, mainly for the longer beds. But I’ll likely still use my current machine for smaller jobs.
$75 is a good price for a vintage jointer that will beat the pants off any modern $200 4” machine.
If you decide to paint it, the BORGs carry Rustoleum “smoke gray”, which I think works nicely on these vintage machines.
Oh, and laminate “wood” floor works well for an auxillary fence if you find the stock fence to be too short.

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D_Allen

495 posts in 2248 days


#6 posted 06-27-2011 03:41 AM

Now I am confused. I took a closer look at the blades and there appears to be a filler or spacer installed between the blade and the lock bar. The gib screws are showing very little thread space too.
I’m wondering if this was added and these are not the original blades.
I really didn’t want to take it apart until I got some new blades, but maybe I’ll have to.

-- Website is finally up and running....www.woodandwrite.com

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canadianchips

2350 posts in 2461 days


#7 posted 06-27-2011 06:12 AM

I just finished cleaning one like that up. I had a cabinet that I was able to use and a motor laying under the bench. I never was a router person. I always had a 6” jointer I was looking for another one, I have been working with reclaimed wood, I hate to nick my good jointer blades, so this 4” was ideal for me. I am sure you will use yours LOTS ! I only paid $10 for mine, by the time I added the motor ($120), the stand (free) I am looking at $140 into mine. I think you did well at $75.

-- "My mission in life - make everyone smile !"

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philip marcou

262 posts in 2061 days


#8 posted 06-27-2011 11:06 AM

D Allen, I can’t say for sure if those would fit but I don’t see why not as the ones you mention are not much wider and if need be the out table can rise some to take up the difference.
But if I were you I would remove those knives , clean up the cutter block, screws and gibs and find out why the spacers are there: could be because it is supposed to use knives thicker than 1/8” which seems very thin to me.Could also be that the threads on the screws are not good and the spacers are supposed to “help” with that.
I think you should remove them and inspect, automatically, with something like this as you don’t want knives or spacers to fly out. Those screws don’t take kindly to over tightening.
Another thing: if spacers are not standard and they have been added by Macgyver then it is possible that they could cause the cutter block to be out of balance-no good, not good. By stripping and cleaning you will soon see if those packing pieces/spacers are a retrofit.
Even better: some one on this forum may have the exact model and you can compare….

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EEngineer

1061 posts in 3077 days


#9 posted 06-27-2011 12:59 PM

OWWM (sorry, now vinatgemachinerey.com) has a wealth of information about these jointers. What you have there is a Delta model 37-110. I am just finishing the restore on a very similar model, the 37-290. I haven’t gotten to the blades and alignment yet – still mucking with the stand, motor and pulley arrangement. I’ll probably post pictures after I am done.

There are a number of discussion threads on OWWM about the size of the blades used on these units and I believe the right size is not 1/8” thick but 3/32”. The extra little fillers or spacers that you have next to the blades are called “gibs”. If the gibs are not tightened right, it can lead to loose blades (no!) and might be dangerous so I think having the right size blades is important. Earlb, another LJ, said he found the right size blades at his DeWalt dealer.

Spend some time at OWWM researching your jointer. Dig down through the archives and you will find discussions of the blade size, the procedure for aligning and tightening the blades and a lot of other information.

-- "Find out what you cannot do and then go do it!"

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Pimzedd

562 posts in 3268 days


#10 posted 06-27-2011 06:04 PM

You might want to check out this post on a jointer rebuild. Repainting really made that one look good. I think it is a similar jointer.

I have the same jointer that is waiting on a rebuild.

-- Bill - Mesquite, TX --- "Everything with a power cord eventually winds up in the trash.” John Sarge , timber framer and blacksmith instructor at Tillers International school

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philip marcou

262 posts in 2061 days


#11 posted 06-27-2011 10:35 PM

E engine: you said “The extra little fillers or spacers that you have next to the blades are called “gibs””.
I may be wrong but the picture seems to show a SPACER or packing piece between the Gib and the blade…..
They all have gibs of some sort to retain the knives, but spacers etc are not usual.

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BlankMan

1488 posts in 2817 days


#12 posted 06-27-2011 11:09 PM

D Allen, it’s lookin’ good. I got one of those too, picked it up last summer off of Craigslist for a steal. Always wanted a 4” to do small stuff to complement my DJ-20.

-- -Curt, Milwaukee, WI

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EEngineer

1061 posts in 3077 days


#13 posted 06-27-2011 11:57 PM

Philip -

Maybe you are right. I might have misunderstood. Let me see if I can get a picture of mine tonite.

-- "Find out what you cannot do and then go do it!"

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D_Allen

495 posts in 2248 days


#14 posted 06-28-2011 12:54 AM

Well, I just had to find out so I took out one of the knives.
Philip is right in that they all need to be removed and checked.
The part that looked like a filler is all part of the lock bar.
I cleaned up one end of this one.
I would guess that the shape is a design intended to better eject the shavings.
With that settled, I now know the 1/8” blades will not fit.
I think I will sharpen these for now and keep looking for a source for new ones.
These blades have never been honed so I should be able to do so a few times.
Actually they are not too dull, but I want them scarry sharp!

-- Website is finally up and running....www.woodandwrite.com

View EEngineer's profile

EEngineer

1061 posts in 3077 days


#15 posted 06-28-2011 02:42 AM

Yep, I just checked mine. The gibs look almost exactly the same as yours. Oddly enough, mine are oriented the opposite way. The semicircular groove in the gib is located closest to the blade. I wonder if it makes any difference?

-- "Find out what you cannot do and then go do it!"

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