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Edge jointing with #8 always ending with a twist

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Forum topic by Holbs posted 06-25-2018 03:57 PM 445 views 0 times favorited 14 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Holbs

1897 posts in 2085 days


06-25-2018 03:57 PM

I know practice makes perfect..but I am having a hard time correcting something that I am sure is a result from user error. I have a freshly sharpened rehabbed Stanley #8, edge jointing a 4’ x 3/4” board (also, I think I need a “board jack” for long pieces. Never see folks joint a long piece where it canters down from the planing action) Using winding sticks, I am slightly twisted. After a couple swipes, I am now even more horribly twisted.
I think I lose “track” of my angle progression across a long distance. Unsure if it is because of my stance, my body location & movement across 4’, or handling the plane itself.
Is this where a jointer fence attachment comes in handy?

-- The Carpenter Bee is derived from the Ancient Greek word wood-cutter


14 replies so far

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waho6o9

8243 posts in 2633 days


#1 posted 06-25-2018 04:04 PM

After getting the edge some what close to 90 I prefer to use:

an edge trim plane.

Doesn’t answer your question I know. Maybe rig up a magnet fence and stabilize the #8 and give it a go.

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Holbs

1897 posts in 2085 days


#2 posted 06-25-2018 04:15 PM

Edge trim plane…hmm…I snagged the left/right LN edge trim plane (new in box) for $5 at some auction. Anything at that price tag for LN I just simply buy :) But never used. I thought were for rabbet cleanup and such. I’ll give these guys a try for edge trimming.

-- The Carpenter Bee is derived from the Ancient Greek word wood-cutter

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JayT

5731 posts in 2267 days


#3 posted 06-25-2018 04:20 PM

If not paying attention, I’ll end up with a “twist” to a jointed edge, as well, due to natural body motion. When I find it happen, I slow down and pay more attention to where I’m putting pressure and how the shavings are coming out. It also help to check for square more often. Usually I can adjust. Sometimes doing a “warmup” on a waste board helps, too. It gets the muscle memory back before jointing the project board.

For what you are working on, a #8 seems like overkill. It’s hard to keep that wide and heavy plane stable on a 3/4in wide surface. Clamping another board alongside would help tremendously in getting a more stable surface. For 4/4 material, I prefer to joint with a narrower plane and save the #8 for large and wide panels.

A jointer fence would probably help. I’m planning on purchasing an edge trimming plane like wahoo shows in the near future, however, as the final step in edge prep. I match plane on glue lines, so don’t worry too much about square, but the edge trimming plane would be a great benefit on exposed edges.

-- In matters of style, swim with the current; in matters of principle, stand like a rock. Thomas Jefferson

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JayT

5731 posts in 2267 days


#4 posted 06-25-2018 04:22 PM



Edge trim plane…hmm…I snagged the left/right LN edge trim plane (new in box) for $5 at some auction. Anything at that price tag for LN I just simply buy :) But never used. I thought were for rabbet cleanup and such. I ll give these guys a try for edge trimming.

- Holbs

And that is a major “You Suck” steal. Holy crap, two LN edge trimming planes for a fiver? Tell you what, if you aren’t using them, I’ll let you quadruple your investment. :-)

-- In matters of style, swim with the current; in matters of principle, stand like a rock. Thomas Jefferson

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Holbs

1897 posts in 2085 days


#5 posted 06-25-2018 04:28 PM

Jay…this was an auction with woodworking stuff in it that no one in attendance knew anything about. Tis where I picked up my Powermatic 66 for $100 and Veritas Large shoulder plane for $5 as well. Was a good auction for me :)
Ahh….#8 might be too large for a 3/4” board. Will keep that in mind. I do have #6’s and #7’s. I just always thought bigger/longer = better. I could be wrong.
The LN’s are still in the box. Could of swore I took a look at them at the auction and they did not have the 90 degree fence. I’ll look again when I get home.

-- The Carpenter Bee is derived from the Ancient Greek word wood-cutter

View rwe2156's profile

rwe2156

3003 posts in 1537 days


#6 posted 06-25-2018 06:56 PM

Holbs,

Those planes are too short to joint.

You can shoot the edge by placing board on top of another board and lay plane on side.

With a good flat bench top and its foolproof.

Depending on your plane, you may need to dial in the iron a bit but once its set, off you go.

Hope this helps.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

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Holbs

1897 posts in 2085 days


#7 posted 06-26-2018 12:16 AM

RWE… I can see the alternative method of what you suggest and may give it a try.
Yes…those edge planes are too short for jointing purposes, but I’ll still play with them :)
And I stand corrected. I have the LN #98/#99 side rabbet planes, not edge planes.

-- The Carpenter Bee is derived from the Ancient Greek word wood-cutter

View bandit571's profile

bandit571

20486 posts in 2739 days


#8 posted 06-26-2018 12:35 AM

Jointer fence..

Can be homemade..or store-bought.

I also just hook my thumb over the edge of the plane, right about where the front knob is. The rest of the left hand goes under the plane, with the knuckles rubbing along the board. You can tell by the way the knuckles rub which way the plane is trying to lean.

IF you can’t keep the plane from leaning to one side, or the other….adjust the lateral lever so the edge of the iron stays flat to the edge of the board. Also, stop every other stroke, and check with a square….and adjust as needed…

BTW: even a well set up #5 will work, and is even easier to control. Does not need a cambered edge, though.

Stand as close to the center of the board’s length….shading towards to start point. Go as far as you can and still control the plane, stop, move your feet without moving the plane, and restart the trip along the edge from where you stopped at.

-- A Planer? I'M the planer, this is what I use

View ColonelTravis's profile

ColonelTravis

1843 posts in 1950 days


#9 posted 06-26-2018 01:58 AM

I use my 8 a lot for this sort of thing and have no fence. Not once have I ever eyeballed down there and seen a perfectly flat edge. It’s always leaning one way or another at some point. Instead of trying to be perfect with it, I get as close as I can get to perfect then use a smaller plane to fix the problem areas, sometimes all it takes is a block.

No power planer or jointer in my garage, I think I’ve gotten pretty good with it. But an 8 is a hard plane to keep level on any length of edge.

View MC's profile

MC

221 posts in 2403 days


#10 posted 06-26-2018 10:18 AM

Use your bench top as a reference. Place the board you want to joint on top of another board on your bench and clamp. Joint the board with the side of the plane running on the bench top.

View Mr_Pink's profile

Mr_Pink

100 posts in 428 days


#11 posted 06-26-2018 12:24 PM

You could also treat this like any other twist. Take a few passes in the middle with the plane centered on the board to create a bow. Then plane each end separately with the plane pushed over toward the high side on that end (but not leaning). Unless your iron is perfectly square, moving the plane off center will cause it to take a heavier cut on one side than the other.

Sometimes if I have twist on just one end of an edge, I’ll slide the jointer toward the high side as the plane gets to that end.

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

4983 posts in 4016 days


#12 posted 06-26-2018 12:51 PM

I have (and use) a jointer fence with my #7. That’s why they were/are made.

-- bill@magraphics.us

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Holbs

1897 posts in 2085 days


#13 posted 06-26-2018 01:29 PM

anyone use the Veritas jointer fence? Looks like they use magnets

-- The Carpenter Bee is derived from the Ancient Greek word wood-cutter

View knockknock's profile

knockknock

449 posts in 2229 days


#14 posted 06-27-2018 09:35 PM

I use the fence that comes with the Veritas rabbet planes, which is also available for the Veritas Custom planes:

-- 👀 --

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