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Jointer buying in a backordered jointer world

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Forum topic by TheLorax posted 06-25-2018 03:41 PM 875 views 0 times favorited 18 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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TheLorax

55 posts in 1352 days


06-25-2018 03:41 PM

I’m looking at getting a Jointer and always thought I’d go with a grizzly when the time came. Since they are all backlogged now I have to analyze things and make a decision.

I’m leaning towards straight knife versions of either the 6” long bed powermatic.

https://www.amazon.com/Powermatic-Deluxe-6-Inch-Jointer-Quick-Set/dp/B000BHNC0C/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1529934819&sr=8-3&keywords=powermatic+jointer

Or the straight knife version of the 8” Jet

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CHB98WZ/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Is Powermatic really that much better than Jet as most things I read would have me believe? I’m open to other options but I don’t want to wait on it and I don’t want to spend more than $2k. I’ve considered the helical heads but it appears to me its cheaper in most cases to buy a byrd shellix head separately. Also wouldn’t it make more sense to put the segmented cutter on your planer?

I know this is a much discussed topic but most posts are older and don’t take the backlog into account. I am leaning towards the 8” because everyone says you will always wish you had. It just seems that I wouldn’t need it for 90% of what I do and also its such a BIG machine. I do like the longer beds, that’s the biggest selling point for me on an 8”.

Thanks for any input from anyone. :)


18 replies so far

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jonah

1834 posts in 3413 days


#1 posted 06-25-2018 03:45 PM

Jointers typically don’t need helical heads as much as planers do, sure. However, just never having to adjust jointer knives again is completely worth the extra expense of a helical head, in my opinion. When I have to replace or reset my jointer knives, it usually takes several hours to get all three knives right, and that’s after having done it a few times. The first time I did it I spent an entire day on it.

I’d strongly, strongly recommend the 8” jointer over the 6”. 6” jointers are useful without a doubt, but you run across so many 6-8” wide boards that most people upgrade to 8” jointers as soon as they can. That’s part of the reason you see so many 6 inchers on the used market.

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Aj2

1648 posts in 1913 days


#2 posted 06-25-2018 04:41 PM

Save the HH head for a planer it’s not the cure all in a jointer. Setting jointer knives does take some practice to master. But it’s a skill worth having. Don’t you want to learn the finer woodworking skills.
It’s gets boring real fast taking the easy way out.

-- Aj

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TheLorax

55 posts in 1352 days


#3 posted 06-25-2018 05:22 PM

Thanks guys, I’m leaning towards the 8” non helical. I can always upgrade to the helical later and not be out any money. I think I’ll be happy with the straight knives.

I just think it’s crazy that it seems the Jet is really the only option at around $1500 am I missing something? The Baleigh is around that price but then shipping kills it.

Is it worth me even worry about the brand? They are all probably roughly the same design anyway.

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Aj2

1648 posts in 1913 days


#4 posted 06-25-2018 05:33 PM

I hear ya its frustrating the choices we have.Consider buying from a store front where you can pick it up. Getting it delivered Is convenient but can be very frustrating if something is wrong.

-- Aj

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jonah

1834 posts in 3413 days


#5 posted 06-25-2018 09:27 PM

I wouldn’t worry about the brand that much. Jointers are fundamentally very simple machines. There just aren’t a lot of moving parts, and there’s ultimately very little to distinguish one brand from another. Slightly better fit and finish here or there, but they all work the same. It’s not like table saws where you can have a very different caliber and quality of machine from the entry level up through higher end options.

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TheLorax

55 posts in 1352 days


#6 posted 06-28-2018 03:25 PM

Well I decided to go with a straight knife Powermatic 8” with the dovetail ways.
I was kind of torn on the parllellogram version for only $300 more but ultimately decided I didn’t want to deal with moving that beast its over 700 lbs, and was $300 more than the $2k I had set as my original max budget. Now I play the waiting game as I wait for it to arrive.

Thanks for all the help.

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Sludgeguy

34 posts in 237 days


#7 posted 06-28-2018 03:36 PM

I’‘ve owned 6” and 8” machines. An 8” with long beds will make your woodworking easier.
I have the spiral head on my 8” machine and it’s nice but the knives on the 6” machine worked fine. I’ll admit that setting the knives ruined an afternoon though.

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BalsaWood

63 posts in 1273 days


#8 posted 06-28-2018 09:59 PM



I wouldn t worry about the brand that much. Jointers are fundamentally very simple machines. There just aren t a lot of moving parts, and there s ultimately very little to distinguish one brand from another. Slightly better fit and finish here or there, but they all work the same. It s not like table saws where you can have a very different caliber and quality of machine from the entry level up through higher end options.

- jonah

Couldn’t you say that most woodworking machines are very simple machines? Even table saws at their core work the same way. I think a large difference between lower end and higher machines is the type of components they use- metal vs plastic for example, their finish, and extra features.

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jonah

1834 posts in 3413 days


#9 posted 06-29-2018 02:20 PM

A table saw is far more complex than a jointer. Leaving aside the angling of the fence (which hardly anyone ever does), the rabbeting “feature” (which no one ever uses), jointers have one function: to remove ~1/32” of wood from the face or edge of a board. You set the fence to 90 degrees and leave it forever. You hardly ever even move the fence back and forth, except to even out knife wear when you’re doing a lot of edge jointing.

The motor doesn’t tilt. You don’t change blades, angles, fences, et cetera. Jointers are just fundamentally simple machines, much simpler than a table saw or a planer.

I’ve owned three stationary jointers. The differences between them are incredibly minor, yet the original price difference was probably vast.

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BroncoBrian

754 posts in 2073 days


#10 posted 06-29-2018 03:23 PM



Well I decided to go with a straight knife Powermatic 8” with the dovetail ways.
I was kind of torn on the parllellogram version for only $300 more but ultimately decided I didn t want to deal with moving that beast its over 700 lbs, and was $300 more than the $2k I had set as my original max budget. Now I play the waiting game as I wait for it to arrive.

Thanks for all the help.

- TheLorax

Great decision!

I have used all of those you mentioned. If I could rewind 2 years, I would pay the difference for the PM over the Jet, but only for fit and finish. PM tools are excellent. I chose my PM bandsaw over the Jet last minute, glad I did, it is great!

I went with the Jet 8” HH and also love it. I was able to level the tables just fine. Also was considering the PM parallel tables, but once set, you do not have to move them.

I don’t agree with some of the comments about the head. The HH is VERY good, all the benefits of the 4-sides blades, and quiet. You were choosing between a group of excellent jointers. I’d take any of them over the grizzly models and the 8” was the only way to go. CL is full of 6” jointers for a reason.

-- I'd like to see a forklift lift a crate of forks. It'd be so damn literal!

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BalsaWood

63 posts in 1273 days


#11 posted 06-29-2018 05:14 PM


A table saw is far more complex than a jointer. Leaving aside the angling of the fence (which hardly anyone ever does), the rabbeting “feature” (which no one ever uses), jointers have one function: to remove ~1/32” of wood from the face or edge of a board. You set the fence to 90 degrees and leave it forever. You hardly ever even move the fence back and forth, except to even out knife wear when you re doing a lot of edge jointing.

The motor doesn t tilt. You don t change blades, angles, fences, et cetera. Jointers are just fundamentally simple machines, much simpler than a table saw or a planer.

I ve owned three stationary jointers. The differences between them are incredibly minor, yet the original price difference was probably vast.

- jonah

I disagree that the table saw is far more complex mechanically. While a jointer’s main function is removing wood from the face or edge, a table saw’s main function is cutting lumber to size. Sure a table saw is more important than a jointer in woodworking but a table saw is pretty simple mechanically as well. The contractors saw and cabinet saw that I now own are very similar to each other. I agree though that a table saw does offer more functionality but that doesn’t mean the machine is more complex mechanically.

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jonah

1834 posts in 3413 days


#12 posted 06-29-2018 07:53 PM

A table saw has at least three times the number of moving parts that a jointer does. Thus, more mechanically complex.

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Aj2

1648 posts in 1913 days


#13 posted 06-29-2018 08:54 PM

I dont think that’s entirely true Jonah my jointer has more moving parts then my tablesaw. Both machines I have were made in 1960 so maybe things have changed. From then to now

-- Aj

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BalsaWood

63 posts in 1273 days


#14 posted 06-30-2018 02:18 AM



A table saw has at least three times the number of moving parts that a jointer does. Thus, more mechanically complex.

- jonah

I don’t believe that true either. Both machines have plenty of parts in them and a table saw may possibly have a little bit more that move but it does not have “at least three times the number of moving parts.” Neither is a complex machine.

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TheLorax

55 posts in 1352 days


#15 posted 06-30-2018 02:30 AM

Well complicated or not I’m happy with my purchase. :) It showed up quick!

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