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Storing True Oil

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Forum topic by JackStraw42 posted 06-19-2018 03:20 PM 677 views 0 times favorited 19 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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JackStraw42

12 posts in 853 days


06-19-2018 03:20 PM

True Oil is my go-to finish for a lot of small projects. It’s a bit expensive, and doesn’t have a very long shelf life if precautions are not taken. I learned that i need to squeeze the bottle to bring the surface of the liquid right to the lip of the container before putting the air-tight cap on. This works fine while the bottle has 40% or more of its contents, but after that it becomes use it or loose it. I usually loose it. I never seem to have a suitable container to transfer it to.

So, do any of you fine folks have any tips or tricks? I’m considering using a glass bottle and one of those vacuum wine stoppers. Something like the one in the link below. Do you think those things remove enough of the air to be effective?

https://www.amazon.com/Vacu-Vin-Original-Vacuum-Stoppers/dp/B000GA3KCE

Thanks for any advice you can offer!


19 replies so far

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Fred Hargis

5142 posts in 2667 days


#1 posted 06-19-2018 03:38 PM

I have no idea of whether that will work, but I have tried sucking the air out a a can of varnish (so much I crushed the sides) and it didn’t work…the stuff still went thick. I also tried surface gases (both CO2 and propane) and that didn’t work either. Currently I have some Stop Loss bags on hand, though I haven’t yet tried them. My experience so far has been that some type of container that pushes the air out of the bottle/can/whatever is the best. So consider filing the bottle with marbles to get the level up, then squeeze for the final last amount. You could go with the Stop Loss bags as well, or maybe use another material to put in the bottle (some have used rocks) but the marbles are clean and can be reused with some work. Lastly, store it the frig. The curing process is a chemical reaction, and the cooler temps slow that down; just don’t forget to warm it up before use.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

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Rich

3756 posts in 763 days


#2 posted 06-19-2018 03:52 PM

Use Bloxygen. It’s an inert gas (argon) that’s heavier than air, so it lays down on the surface of the oil and blocks contact with the oxygen in the air. You can find it on Amazon and Woodcraft generally has it in stock if there’s a store nearby you. It’ll be in the same area as the oil and other finishes.

It costs only pennies per use, particularly on small bottles like Tru-oil comes in.

-- Half of what we read or hear about finishing is right. We just don’t know which half! — Bob Flexner

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JackStraw42

12 posts in 853 days


#3 posted 06-19-2018 06:33 PM

Thanks guys, i appreciate the info!

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woodbutcherbynight

5594 posts in 2582 days


#4 posted 06-20-2018 02:02 AM

Stop loss bags are good, as is argon. Here is a trick we used in Iraq for oil based paint:

Small party balloon. Blow it up in the can as much as you like then cap it. The Balloon will displace the amount of air that is the culprit here.

-- Live to tell the stories, they sound better that way.

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John Smith

1437 posts in 336 days


#5 posted 06-20-2018 12:36 PM

Jack – when you say you are having issues with the “shelf life”,
are you experiencing just skin over issues or total coagulation of the contents ??

I have a TIG welder that uses 100% argon gas and I have started using
a short burst of gas prior to closing up the cans and have had zero “skin-over” issues.
for expensive finishes such as marine spar and true-oil, the can of Bloxygen will
pay for itself. Argon is heavier than air so it will block the skinning properties of the finish.
a good practice to get into is keeping the lids, rims and caps clear of the finish so they don’t stick.
returning material back to the can after it has been thinned or modified, will, in some finishes,
cause total coagulation of the contents, spoiling the whole batch.

if you want to continue to use the squeeze bottle, put glass marbles in the bottle
to decrease the amount of air available that facilitates skin-over.

.

.

-- I started out with nothing in life ~ and still have most of it left.

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JackStraw42

12 posts in 853 days


#6 posted 06-20-2018 12:42 PM

Thanks guys. John, it’s mostly skin over issues as you say, depending on how long the product sits before i use it again. The marble trick is so simple… i could smack myself for not thinking of it myself! While the gas option sounds very effective, i think the marbles will be enough to solve my problem. Thanks again everyone!

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gwilki

226 posts in 1647 days


#7 posted 06-20-2018 01:36 PM

I use quite a bit of polymerized tung oil and did try the stop loss bags. They are very good, but pricey. My cheap and easy solution was to fill the can with water. The oil floats on the water and is easy to use and I can keep the can full so there is little air to interact with the oil. This is similar to the marble idea, but for me, it’s simpler to keep the can full.

-- Grant Wilkinson, Ottawa ON

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Gerald Thompson

1107 posts in 2408 days


#8 posted 06-20-2018 02:02 PM

I have been using canned air for years with Waterlox and Tung Oil. No Problems.

-- Jerry

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NickelDave

5 posts in 147 days


#9 posted 06-22-2018 11:21 PM

Once i open a container I store it upside down the skim forms on the “top”. When I’m ready to use it I turn the bottle right side up and now the skim is on the bottom. Hope I was able to explain that clearly. Simple and cost free.

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Andybb

1379 posts in 777 days


#10 posted 06-23-2018 12:33 AM

Does that mean that my 2 year old bottle of True Oil is toast?

-- Andy - Seattle USA

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Rich

3756 posts in 763 days


#11 posted 06-23-2018 12:52 AM


Does that mean that my 2 year old bottle of True Oil is toast?

- Andybb

Only if you stored it right-side up…lol

Actually, that store it upside down thing is a myth. There’s more damage done to the oil by oxygen than just having a skin form.

-- Half of what we read or hear about finishing is right. We just don’t know which half! — Bob Flexner

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NickelDave

5 posts in 147 days


#12 posted 06-23-2018 01:11 AM



Actually, that store it upside down thing is a myth. There s more damage done to the oil by oxygen than just having a skin form.

- Rich


Storing it upside down keeps the skin on the bottom so you don’t have to break it to get to the liquid. been doing it for 30 years. Works for me. YMMV

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Rich

3756 posts in 763 days


#13 posted 06-23-2018 02:05 AM


Storing it upside down keeps the skin on the bottom so you don t have to break it to get to the liquid. been doing it for 30 years. Works for me. YMMV

- NickelDave

Sorry, but like I said, more damage is done to the oil than just a skin forming. If you are OK using partially cured oil and can’t tell the difference between it and fresh, then go for it. Besides, even if what you say is true, and it isn’t, you’re still wasting that part that hardens in the bottom. A ten cent shot of Bloxygen will prevent all damage and let you use 100% of the finish, with no loss in quality. Seems like a no brainer.

-- Half of what we read or hear about finishing is right. We just don’t know which half! — Bob Flexner

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NickelDave

5 posts in 147 days


#14 posted 06-23-2018 02:27 PM

Thanks for the info on Bloxygen, I’ll pick some up.
Pulled out the shotgun stock I finished with Tru oil years ago.
I’st still doing fine and is nice and hard.
I do agree that I have lost a lot of finish over the years I just don’t think what I did use was degraded in any way..
Thank you again for you input.


Besides, even if what you say is true, and it isn t,
- Rich

I think I’m being called a liar…....Don’t care for that much.

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Rich

3756 posts in 763 days


#15 posted 06-23-2018 02:33 PM


Besides, even if what you say is true, and it isn t,
- Rich

I think I m being called a liar…....Don t care for that much.

- NickelDave

Change “true” to “correct” if that makes you feel better. It wasn’t my intention to suggest you are a liar.

-- Half of what we read or hear about finishing is right. We just don’t know which half! — Bob Flexner

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