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need help removing outlet box

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Forum topic by Karda posted 06-19-2018 01:25 AM 717 views 0 times favorited 23 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Karda

1222 posts in 669 days


06-19-2018 01:25 AM

Hi, I have a jury rigged electrical box under my porch. I don’t know who put this he but he was on drugs, this is not anything any competent builder would do. The box was put under the house build on, that part is ok, the box is nailed to a piece of @ x 8 about 2 ft long that is propped on a plastic flower pot that is on a piece of sinder block. What appears to be a wall in back of it is a flake board box covering so air ducts so is not solid. What I want to do is unnail the box and screw it to the 2×4 like it should have been to begin with. However how can I get the nails out. There is nothing solid to pound against any ideas,


23 replies so far

View josephf's profile

josephf

202 posts in 2211 days


#1 posted 06-19-2018 01:35 AM

take a chisel and splinter the board /split it apart . as you pull pieces away nails are left hanging

View BlasterStumps's profile

BlasterStumps

840 posts in 554 days


#2 posted 06-19-2018 01:42 AM

Once I had it de-energized, I would take the cover off and slide a sawzall blade in between the box and the block of wood and cut the nails off. That is if I was trying to save the blocking that all of that is providing.

-- "I build for function first, looks second. Most times I never get around to looks." - Mike, western Colorado

View Dark_Lightning's profile

Dark_Lightning

3217 posts in 3224 days


#3 posted 06-19-2018 01:49 AM

Also, if that box feeds outdoor electrical items, it is required by code (at least where I live) to be a GFCI type.

-- Random Orbital Nailer

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woodbutcherbynight

5545 posts in 2524 days


#4 posted 06-19-2018 01:52 AM



Once I had it de-energized, I would take the cover off and slide a sawzall blade in between the box and the block of wood and cut the nails off. That is if I was trying to save the blocking that all of that is providing.

- BlasterStumps

Have pulled many this way that would not pry off. Key here is power must be OFF. 110 is lethal don’t let anyone fool you.

-- Live to tell the stories, they sound better that way.

View jbay's profile

jbay

2581 posts in 1014 days


#5 posted 06-19-2018 01:55 AM

Power off, un wire the outlet and remove the wire from the box.
Mount a new box within range of the existing wire and put in a new outlet.

View Karda's profile

Karda

1222 posts in 669 days


#6 posted 06-19-2018 02:12 AM

thanks for your suggestions I kinda like the new box idea but don’t want to turn of the electrial for that long but probably will I think there is enough wire,. Another question this is a totaly enclosed area is the outdoor cover necessary thanks Mike

View jonah's profile

jonah

1834 posts in 3414 days


#7 posted 06-19-2018 02:50 AM

If it’s outdoors, it needs an outdoor cover. Get a new box and a new outlet.

View torus's profile

torus

145 posts in 528 days


#8 posted 06-19-2018 02:52 AM



thanks for your suggestions I kinda like the new box idea but don t want to turn of the electrial for that long

The time is the same or even faster. Do a new box.


is the outdoor cover necessary?

bugs and spiders?

-- "It's getting better..." - put this on my RIP stone!

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BlasterStumps

840 posts in 554 days


#9 posted 06-19-2018 03:11 AM

what’s the problem with de-energizing the wire for a while?

I used to rubber glove 7200-12470 V out of an insulated aerial basket and; I have done some residential wiring. I won’t take chances with energized low voltage. Not worth it.

-- "I build for function first, looks second. Most times I never get around to looks." - Mike, western Colorado

View Karda's profile

Karda

1222 posts in 669 days


#10 posted 06-19-2018 03:16 AM

guess I don’t have a choice

View John Smith's profile

John Smith

1307 posts in 278 days


#11 posted 06-19-2018 12:38 PM

I don’t know if it is just Florida, or the official NEC code.
but, in my area, all outside outlets must be in a waterproof box
as well as a GFCI receptacle. the whole job takes less than 5 minutes.
X2 with the sawzall and metal blade.

.

.

-- some people are like a Slinky - - - pretty much good for nothing. But still make you smile when you push them down a flight of stairs.

View Fresch's profile

Fresch

302 posts in 2036 days


#12 posted 06-19-2018 03:18 PM



guess I don t have a choice

- Karda

Turning it off will let you mark it in your loadcenter.
OSHA, if you were employed as an electrician, requires it to be turned off.
More people die due to 120volt shock.
New box, gfi, cover. 1/2 hr. job max. including turning on and off.

View clin's profile

clin

919 posts in 1111 days


#13 posted 06-19-2018 04:31 PM

Power off, new box. I can’t see why the power would need to be off for more than 30 minutes. Perhaps you could get the new box mounted and ready, before touching the old. And is there something else on the circuit that is power critical?

I can’t tell from the photo if you need to get the old stuff out of the way before the new goes in. But, from your description, it sounds like the 2×8 is just wedged in and held up by the pot. So sounds trivial to remove the whole thing.

-- Clin

View Karda's profile

Karda

1222 posts in 669 days


#14 posted 06-20-2018 05:16 AM

what I would like to do is remove the nails and turn the box around and screw to the stud, but it looks like it would take more time to do that than to replace the box

View TheFridge's profile

TheFridge

10090 posts in 1601 days


#15 posted 06-20-2018 12:38 PM

I’d pry a little bit with a screwdriver. Not too much. Cast aluminum likes to break pretty easy. If it’s plastic I wouldn’t try it.

And/or use lineman’s pliers the twist the nail out. Or out enough to cut it with lineman’s or sawzall. Or a hacksaw blade. That goes faster than one might think.

Or just break it and get a new box.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

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