Your table saw blade ever slowdown/stop?

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Forum topic by gillyd posted 06-17-2011 03:01 PM 5845 views 0 times favorited 26 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View gillyd's profile


136 posts in 2645 days

06-17-2011 03:01 PM

Last night I was feeding 8/4 red oak through my new 3HP 50-260M1 and the blade slowed down and appeared to be stopping. Has this ever happened to anyone? I basically hit the stop and waited for the blade to finally stop. I then backed it out and restarted it and it ran fine. I am thinking I tripped some kind of internal breaker. It really surprised me that this would happen on a 3HP saw. It wasn’t the kind of blade stop that happens if you bind up the wood between the fence and blade, it was more like the breaker got flipped kind of stop. I absolutely wasn’t feeding the wood fast either. I was able to run the wood through after the restart just fine.

Looking for others experience, should I be concerned?

26 replies so far

View Tedstor's profile


1643 posts in 2632 days

#1 posted 06-17-2011 03:06 PM

Many motors have a overheat shutdown feature. Were you cutting a lot of boards before that one?
Maybe a dull blade? Of course, a 3hp machine shoulld laugh at a 2” board; so the blade would have to be really dull.

View cornflake's profile


36 posts in 2689 days

#2 posted 06-17-2011 03:11 PM

the board might have been case hardened at the ends this can happen on kiln dryed wood.

View knotscott's profile


8014 posts in 3374 days

#3 posted 06-17-2011 05:06 PM

I’ve never had it happen with a 3hp saw, but have with my smaller saws. Could be electrical, but blade and alignment can also be significant factors too…what blade were you using? Was the stock dimensioned flat and straight prior to ripping?

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View PurpLev's profile


8535 posts in 3647 days

#4 posted 06-17-2011 05:28 PM

I would check blade sharpness/gunk (maybe it’s time to clean it or sharpen it) and also the boards – maybe they release enough internal stresses that it bound the blade.

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

View Tomoose's profile


422 posts in 3372 days

#5 posted 06-17-2011 05:48 PM

My contractor saw used to pop the on-board breaker after cutting many boards and getting hot, but now that I have it running on a dedicated 20A circuit it hasn’t happened any more.

-- “I am always doing that which I cannot do, in order that I may learn how to do it.” Pablo Picasso

View Loren's profile


10396 posts in 3647 days

#6 posted 06-17-2011 06:37 PM

Are you using a riving knife?

Internal stresses in the wood can pinch the blade and cause such
problems. It is far less of an issue with 3hp and bigger motors
on cabinet saws, but it can happen. A riving knife largely eliminates
the pinching issue.

View ChrisForthofer's profile


150 posts in 3066 days

#7 posted 06-17-2011 07:11 PM

+1 for the stock pinching the blade, had it happen to me several times with rough sawn lumber.

-- -Director of slipshod craftsmanship and attention deficit woodworking

View Dusty56's profile


11819 posts in 3687 days

#8 posted 06-17-2011 08:45 PM

Do you have a dedicated circuit for this saw ?
I’ve also experienced blade slow down due to internal wood stresses , resulting in a little bit of smoke before being able to shut the saw down , but my 3hp wanted to keep going with no “power off” sensations felt.
Seeing that your saw is brand new , you might want to check all of your electrical connections / switch before you have a fire or the warranty expires.

-- I'm absolutely positive that I couldn't be more uncertain!

View gillyd's profile


136 posts in 2645 days

#9 posted 06-17-2011 09:01 PM

Thanks guys for all the replies.

I do have a dedicated 30AMP, 220 right to the saw. Right now I do not have a splitter or riving knife on the machine, as I am in the process of making one, so that could have something to do with it.

The board I was staring to push through was right from the woodsmith store and it was kiln dried. As I mentioned it happened only about 4 inches into the cut, and it was the power off sensation. After I powered it down by pressing the button I let it stop, then I started it back up again and ran it through with no issue.

I didn’t get any binding sensation at all, and I was using the Grrr-ripper jig. This was the first board I was cutting that night.

I was using a 24 tooth, ripping blade from Freud.

I also cross cut the board after I ripped it and I had no issue.

View Dusty56's profile


11819 posts in 3687 days

#10 posted 06-17-2011 09:33 PM

30AMP, 220”...... DAMN !! ....Plan on doing some welding later on ? LOL : )

-- I'm absolutely positive that I couldn't be more uncertain!

View richgreer's profile


4541 posts in 3073 days

#11 posted 06-17-2011 10:09 PM

I spoke with a Freud representative once about their TS blades. He told me that I should never cut more than 1.25” per pass with their TS blades. If I am cutting an 8/4 board, I make one pass at 1.25” and then raise the blade and make a second pass for the rest.

The Freud representative spoke quite strongly about the need to limit each pass to 1.25” or less. Apparently, their blades are not designed for good performance when cutting deeper. I’m taking him at his word.

I don’t know if his caution applies to other brands of blades but I know it is easier on the saw to make multiple passes so I have made this my habit.

-- Rich, Cedar Rapids, IA - I'm a woodworker. I don't create beauty, I reveal it.

View Howie's profile


2656 posts in 2922 days

#12 posted 06-17-2011 10:35 PM

That’s it Gilly. You need to pack that saw up and ship it to me for a total complete extended evaluation. I’m betting the thermothrockle rod or the muffler bearing is out of adjustment.
I personally would lean toward richgreer’s “take shallower cuts” sounds reasonable to me.

-- Life is good.

View gillyd's profile


136 posts in 2645 days

#13 posted 06-17-2011 10:53 PM

haha Howie, with all the trouble I’ve been having, I’m starting to wonder if my wife was right! :)

The freud blade is one of those 30 dollars from HD. I had never heard of taking shallow cuts with a 3HP cabinet saw before, maybe i need to step it up and get a real blade.

View Howie's profile


2656 posts in 2922 days

#14 posted 06-17-2011 11:16 PM

There is a real difference between a 30 dollar blade and a say 75 dollar plus blade . Go ahead, bite the 2×4 , and buy a really good blade. You won’t regret it.

-- Life is good.

View Dusty56's profile


11819 posts in 3687 days

#15 posted 06-18-2011 12:10 AM

Which model # is the blade ?
The only 10”x24T Freud blade at my local HoDepo is the THIN KERF Diablo blade. D1024X

-- I'm absolutely positive that I couldn't be more uncertain!

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