Ripping wood without the afterbow

  • Advertise with us

« back to Woodworking Skill Share forum

Forum topic by hlpaint posted 06-16-2011 03:56 AM 1315 views 0 times favorited 4 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View hlpaint's profile


26 posts in 2787 days

06-16-2011 03:56 AM

Topic tags/keywords: question

I had some white oak that was 1 and 1/8 thick, I wanted to rip this piece down to 1/2” to get a book matched piece. I have a bandsaw so I figured this would be the fasted and safest way to go. The ripping wasn’t the problem it was the aftermath that has me not knowing what to do. The oak both sides bowed to the point of not being able to use either one. Is there a way to straighten them short of planning down to 1/8” Thanks for your help

-- The guy who makes no mistakes hasn't done anything

4 replies so far

View Loren's profile


8159 posts in 3068 days

#1 posted 06-16-2011 04:14 AM

Give it some time. You can sticker the wood flat, but mostly
the pieces will take some time to relax and the bowing may
go away as moisture equalizes on both faces of the boards.

In the future, only resaw quartersawn oak and you’ll get more
stability in the resawn pieces. Flatsawn will usually move on

Since it is oak you can of course steam-bend it to a shape you
want but you need to be set up to do it and, again, you get
the best results from more carefully chosen sawn boards. Riven
boards are the best of all for bending.

View buckles's profile


24 posts in 1962 days

#2 posted 06-23-2011 02:08 AM

What you do one side of a piece of wood you must do the other side also or you will get warping, twisting and bending. If you cut one side, cut some off the opposite side. You may still get bending but it will not be as severe
Your boards can be straightened but it takes steam (lots of steam), pressure and time.
Boards 1/4” or less in thickness can be bent very easily by using dry heat. Try Google and YouTube for info.

-- Politicians are like diapers. They need to be changed for the same reasons.

View Jim Finn's profile

Jim Finn

2390 posts in 2342 days

#3 posted 06-23-2011 08:09 PM

I have had the same problem resawing oak. I avoided it the next time by leaving the wood aclimate to the shop for about a week before resawing it.

-- "You may have your PHD but I have my GED and my DD 214"

View GregD's profile


777 posts in 2556 days

#4 posted 06-23-2011 09:50 PM

OK, I’ll admit it. I’m a hack.

I would try clamping the wood up so it has a bend opposite of the way it is warped and letting it sit for days or weeks. If the warp is a gentle bend along the length it might not be too hard to get most of that out. But I would not expect the wood to remain particularly stable afterwards, so I would want to get it completely worked soon after removing it from the clamps. And I’d only try this if the final piece was going to be held flat by other components of the project.

-- Greg D.

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics