Results of using a glue line rip blade outside of its cutting depth limits

I would be interested in that also.

I use my Forrest blade in material up to 2” and get a surface good enough to glue. In face I really don’t
use the jointer for my glue edges. I have a Unisaw so that may also make some difference.

-- Gary, East TX -- The longest journey begins with a single step.

I recently passed up the chance to get a Unisaw for $270…. My saw is some ancient import, big cast iron table though. Currently I have a Woodworker II in it which produces fantastic results but the saw is built for a 12” blade so I don’t exactly have a lot of height. Want to put in a new 12” blade due to the size of the stock for my workbench.

-- I am always doing that which I can not do, in order that I may learn how to do it. - Pablo Picasso

I will ditto Gary’s comments about the Forrest blades. The only time I have any problems is when my fence is misaligned (on a Craftsman this happens often especially if you get in a hurry.

-- With God's help all things are possible- even woodworking. Woodworking is not just a hobby, it is an (expletive deleted) expensive hobby.

Ditto Gary!

But at this price, maybe you can teach us something.

Lee

-- by Lee A. Jesberger http://www.prowoodworkingtips.com http://www.ezee-feed.com

I’ve used the 10” version on 4/4 & 6/4 stock and it worked as well as anything else. I think the depth spec has to do with the little anti-vibration slots in the blade although as more blade is exposed there is a greater chance of a bobble making a difference. I concur that the Forrest blades are awesome and I’ve had great luck with the thicker Infinity blades as well. They are available individually as well as in various multi-blade packages both with and without their dado stack. And that dado stack is the best one I’ve ever used. Perfect flat bottomed cuts and great edge retention. In my experience the biggest determination in if you can go straight to the glue bottle or not is making sure the fence is exactly parallel with the blade and having minimal run out on the arbor. At least you can adjust the fence . . .

I can actually adjust my arbor too…kinda… Lee Valley used to sell this thing that sits next to your blade, like a blade stabilizer, but it has small set screws every 15 degrees or so, so you use the screws to offset any runout in your arbor. It works really well, if a bit fiddly, so my blade runout is in the order of 0.001 while my arbor is out by quite a bit. I got the last one in the warehouse :)

-- I am always doing that which I can not do, in order that I may learn how to do it. - Pablo Picasso

Can not beat forrest blades! Ocassionally I will resaw with it and the results are like glass.

-- Greg, CT

I use glue line rip blades allthe time, have for years. They have almost replaced the jointer for edge jointing. In sizes from 10” to 16”. With a jig or pending the saw you have, they leave a perfect hair line joint. Not owning a Forest as I think they are pricey, I use the FS Tool blades.

-- http://www.furnituremann.ca/