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Getting a cabinet saw into the shop

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Forum topic by greatview posted 06-14-2011 08:06 PM 1814 views 0 times favorited 19 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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greatview

69 posts in 1824 days


06-14-2011 08:06 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question tablesaw

I’m thinking about a new cabinet saw. Either the 3hp Sawstop or the Delta. Part of the decision rests on the getting it into my shop. And, if I pick up in my truck, getting it off the truck. I’m in great shape but most of my friends have many ailments so, either I do it alone with minimal help from my wife or I have to hire someone to help. There’s a Woodcraft store where I could pick up a saw and I suppose there are other locations where I might pick up a Delta. I’m in New Hampshire where we have no sales tax but fewer stores that other places.

So, my question is , “How difficult would it be to move a saw from my driveway into my shop?” (The shop slab is right next to the drive way on the same level.)

-- Tom, New London, NH


19 replies so far

View jerkylips's profile

jerkylips

233 posts in 1237 days


#1 posted 06-14-2011 08:30 PM

I wouldn’t let that be the deciding factor. I’m sure you could put an ad on craigslist for services & get a couple high school kids to move it for you..

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greatview

69 posts in 1824 days


#2 posted 06-14-2011 08:36 PM

No, it is not THE deciding factor but just a factor that will input into the decision.

-- Tom, New London, NH

View Kent Shepherd's profile

Kent Shepherd

2698 posts in 1952 days


#3 posted 06-14-2011 08:38 PM

If there are no gaps between the drive and the shop, you can use 2 standard 4 wheel furniture dollies.
The trick will be getting it off your truck, onto the dollies. Not a one man job. If the saw is crated from the factory, the weight is not as bad because it is not assembled. Open the crate and remove the wings and anything else you can. You can then use some sort of ramp from your truck to the drive, or even into the shop if you can back to the door.

If the saw is assembled, you could possibly slide it down ramps also. If you have access to a low trailer it gets easier, since you don’t have as far to the ground.

Hope some of this helps. We have loaded and unloaded multiple saws, so if you need any other information just let me know.
Kent

-- She thought I hung the moon--now she just thinks I did it wrong

View Jonathan's profile

Jonathan

2605 posts in 1717 days


#4 posted 06-14-2011 08:39 PM

Do you have any strong neighbors, a college close by, or some other source of labor that would be willing to help for $20, or something similar? I would strongly recommend getting help if there is any up-and-down movement, such as out of the back of a pickup truck. Sounds like you’ve got easy access into the shop, which is good. I recently got a 3-HP SawStop Professional and it took 3 of us to get the main cabinet into my shop, which is in our basement, going down a very tight and awkward stairwell. Once we got it into the basement, 2-of us could move it at that point. The rest of it, you can move in pieces, such as one wing at a time, the rails, etc.

Not only would this help prevent injury to you, but imagine if you dropped or tipped over your brand new saw! I want to say the main cabinet section was somewhere in the 250-260 pound range, without the wings, rails, etc.?

-- Jonathan, Denver, CO "Constructive criticism is welcome and valued as it gives me new perspectives and helps me to advance as a woodworker."

View SCOTSMAN's profile

SCOTSMAN

5381 posts in 2251 days


#5 posted 06-14-2011 08:50 PM

Tom don’t let it worry you.I have just purchased a new saw weighing 595 kilo’s or half a metric ton plus a bit. I had to have it delivered ,then taken up a steep drive,then round behind my house which is large lifted up eight steps or so, then up the steep garden about tweny feet ,then into the workshop ,then through a set of doors with millimteres to spare ,then through a double set of doors then placed into situ to be able to work.
I was convinced it would go through the front door only when completely dismantled then have the archaitriving round the door removed.Of course to do this the saw had to be fully taken apart and each piece removed and brought to the workshop seperately so it worked out taking just a day and a half of plodding on.dismantling then painstakingly and carefully re-assembled.So I figure with help you will make it so long as it can be taken through your door.I had to remove mine as it was 5 mm too long. mine is 7.5 horsepower incidently.Have fun Alistair

-- excuse my typing as I have a form of parkinsons disease

View helluvawreck's profile

helluvawreck

15904 posts in 1533 days


#6 posted 06-14-2011 09:13 PM

A lot of people who sell saws have access to trucks with liftgates. These will lower the saw right down to the ground. You can biuld a plywood dolly with four swivel castors for 35 or 40 dollars. If it is shipped to you you can specify a delivery truck with liftgate. The shipping companies are use to delivering to residential areas with lift gates. One helper and you should be able to manage to get the saw off of the diolly.

When I bought my power tools the delivery was built into the price. They sent a couple of guys with my stuff and the truck had a liftgate. The two guys were very helpful and nice. They were also very strong and young and were use to it and they knew what they were doing. They set the stuff right where I asked them to and helped unpack it so that they could verify that it was not damaged. They did not help assemble it – that was up to me. Check with your dealer about what they offer.

-- If a man does not keep pace with his companions, perhaps it is because he hears a different drummer. Let him step to the music which he hears, however measured or far away. Henry David Thoreau

View Bertha's profile

Bertha

12951 posts in 1359 days


#7 posted 06-14-2011 09:20 PM

I recently ran into this dilemma with a large bandsaw. We ended up using a floor jack & kind of swung it into doorway of my shop (mine sounds like yours, detached, ground level). Once inside, we rocked it onto those big slick furniture movers. I anchored an eyebolt in my concrete floor and used a winch to pull it into general position with the floor jack giving a little lift. I just football tackle nudged it the last few inches & tilted out the moving pads. Harbor Freight has a floor jack for around $200. I’m going to buy one eventually.

Or you could buy a mobile base. Drop it on there from the truck, and just ride it into your shop! ;)

-- My dad and I built a 65 chev pick up.I killed trannys in that thing for some reason-Hog

View helluvawreck's profile

helluvawreck

15904 posts in 1533 days


#8 posted 06-14-2011 09:30 PM

Before I bought my equipment I did a whole lot of shopping and dickering. My delivery came with the price for the equipment and the price of the equipment was the best price that I had found and the dealer had a good reputation. BTW, I bought my equipment from the kind of dealer that sells mostly to cabinet shops and people with small woodworking businesses and not just to retail customers. They generally sell more machines so have to move more volume and have to know how to deliver them efficiently.

-- If a man does not keep pace with his companions, perhaps it is because he hears a different drummer. Let him step to the music which he hears, however measured or far away. Henry David Thoreau

View GregD's profile

GregD

619 posts in 1802 days


#9 posted 06-14-2011 09:35 PM

My Woodcraft store delivered my 3HP cabinet saw on a truck with a lift gate and a pallet mover. It went into my garage without much fuss.

-- Greg D.

View Loren's profile

Loren

7625 posts in 2314 days


#10 posted 06-14-2011 09:40 PM

I’ve moved 10” cabinet saws myself easily enough by myself. It helps
to have some help tipping the saw into the truck, onto its back (if there’s
a dust port on the back take it off).

I use a sheet of ply and/or carpet to help slide the machine.

If you’re buying a new machine it may come boxed-up in such a
way that moving should be done upright.

-- http://lawoodworking.com

View live4ever's profile

live4ever

983 posts in 1676 days


#11 posted 06-14-2011 09:56 PM

Here’s how we did it with my 3hp Sawstop:

The guys at Rockler forklifted it into the back of our SUV. It barely fit.

At home in the garage, I unboxed it (still inside SUV) and removed cast wings and other accessories, leaving just the saw cabinet and main table on the pallet.

We then slid the pallet out and tilted it down onto a large block of styrofoam. It took 3 of us 30-somethings, but we are not particularly big or strong. Once everything is removed from the box, the cabinet probably weighs about 250 lb.

-- Optimists are usually disappointed. Pessimists are either right or pleasantly surprised. I tend to be a disappointed pessimist.

View TLMiller's profile

TLMiller

6 posts in 1565 days


#12 posted 06-14-2011 09:58 PM

Tom,
When I bought my Sawstop ICS, I hauled it from Dallas to Tyler, TX in my Toyota Tacoma. To get it from the truck to the shop, I rented a “hoist” from the local equipment rental company (cost $35). They delivered the hoist and picked it up when I was finished. I assembled the mobile ICS base, uncrated the saw while still on the truck and hoisted the saw onto the mobile base. I then moved it into my shop. I managed to do all this myself. The saw itself weighs ~650 pounds. The whole process took only about an hour. The mobile base for the ICS sits flat on the ground when lowered. Hope you enjoy whatever saw you decide to purchase. I truly do enjoy my ICS!
Tom

-- Tom, Tyler, TX

View dpop24's profile

dpop24

115 posts in 1236 days


#13 posted 06-14-2011 10:13 PM

I bought a used granite top Ridgid and it took 3 of us pretty big/strong guys to get it into the back of my truck. Since one of the guys was the seller, my brother and I had to figure out how to get it out with just the two of us once we got it to my house. There was NO WAY we would have been able to do it, so we disassembled the top and took it out in two pieces (cabinet and top). Honestly, the top was the majority of the weight and almost busted some hernias just by itself.

Now that it’s in my garage waiting to be moved to my new house, I realize that I can actually do it by myself by separating the top into it’s three separate pieces. I recommend like live4ever to just take it apart into pieces that you can manage – even taking the motor out of the cabinet if you need to.

Of course, the best way is to ask someone for help, but I am excellent at turning a 2-3 man job into a 1 man job because I’m too stupid to ask for help!

-- If it ain't broke, take it apart and find out why

View marcfromny's profile

marcfromny

45 posts in 2025 days


#14 posted 06-14-2011 10:28 PM

I needed to move my 600 lb clausing table saw around my basement. So I took a 3/4” piece of pipe from a pipe clamp that was wider than my saw front to back. Standing at the left side of the table, I placed the pipe at the base of the saw then tilted the saw up enough to kick the pipe underneath to the far end. Then I just rolled the saw anywhere I wanted by just tipping the saw and kicking the pipe to the opposite end. The effort was ridiculously easy! I could have rolled the saw all day long, anywhere.Not sure how much movement you need to accomplish, but this works even if there is a step up or down involved.

View Bertha's profile

Bertha

12951 posts in 1359 days


#15 posted 06-14-2011 10:30 PM

Marc, I think the ancient Egyptians used that technique. I don’t think it worked; those squares look more like triangles. ;)

-- My dad and I built a 65 chev pick up.I killed trannys in that thing for some reason-Hog

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