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SS Riving Knife Height, Freud Blade Diameter

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Forum topic by BroncoBrian posted 05-29-2018 12:45 AM 1104 views 0 times favorited 14 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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BroncoBrian

854 posts in 2164 days


05-29-2018 12:45 AM

Topic tags/keywords: riving knife sawstop freud forrest

My riving knife is about 1.5 mm above my blade at the lowest setting (adjustable height riving knife). I was lowering it and realized it cannot go any lower than it is.

I saw on other forums that you can grind the top of the riving knife to shorten it.

I am using a 40T Freud Thin-kerf GP blade. It is NOT 10” so I assume that is the issue. I don’t have my SS blade anymore but I bet it was a full 10” or I would have noticed this when I set the saw up originally.

Anyone know if the Forrest WWII blades are a full 10”?

Did other SS owners give in a grind the knife?

-- A severed foot is the ultimate stocking stuffer.


14 replies so far

View Redoak49's profile

Redoak49

3670 posts in 2194 days


#1 posted 05-29-2018 01:30 AM

I have not ground the knife. I do take it out once in awhile for none thru cuts.

View pintodeluxe's profile

pintodeluxe

5798 posts in 3018 days


#2 posted 05-29-2018 01:44 AM

I have Sawstop PCS and use Freud blades. I agree that Freud blades run smaller in diameter than their stated specs. However, I am able to adjust the riving knife below the blade height without modifications.

What type of Sawstop do you have?

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

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BroncoBrian

854 posts in 2164 days


#3 posted 05-29-2018 02:01 AM

1.75 PCS.

I was able to adjust it to flush with the blade with a little messing around. I did not like the knife bracket that close to the cartridge though, so I moved it back up a bit. I think I am going to get a Forrest WW 40T blade tomorrow and see if it still needs to be ground down any. Might even take the knife to Woodcraft and see if one of them wants to “show” me how to grind it.

I am also curious if there is a thin kerf riving knife.

Redoak – removing it for non-through cuts seems pretty simple.

I have spent a few hours today dialing everything back in on the saw now that I am more familiar with it. One of the wings is a bit high in the middle, I am going to clamp and adjust that now to get it perfect.

Sweet machine!

-- A severed foot is the ultimate stocking stuffer.

View Breeze73's profile

Breeze73

100 posts in 886 days


#4 posted 05-29-2018 04:08 AM

I just measured my WWII and it is spot on 10”. I have never seen a thin kerf riving knife for the SS. But, that doesn’t mean they don’t exist. I would recommend getting just the standard WWII. However, I would also recommend getting the one with the flat bottomed teeth. It is such a joy to use for making shoulder cuts for tenons. There are no scoring lines to contend with. I have 1 1/2 HP Jet contractor saw. I have had no issues in using the standard width blade. When cutting 8/4 hard maple, I just have to feed it a tad slower than normal. Otherwise, the power has been fine. I have noticed at times that the blade will not cut as cleanly as it normally does. When I notice that, I inspect the blade and usually determine it is in need of a good cleaning. I think your PCS 1.75 will handle the normal kerf just fine. You will also be able to quicker setups knowing your blade is 1/8” instead of 3/32”. I hate having to do math down to the 32nd if I don’t have to.

-- Breeze

View pintodeluxe's profile

pintodeluxe

5798 posts in 3018 days


#5 posted 05-29-2018 04:41 AM

Yes, there is a thin kerf riving knife for the Sawstop. The thin kerf one is chrome, and the full kerf is black.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

View BroncoBrian's profile

BroncoBrian

854 posts in 2164 days


#6 posted 05-29-2018 06:16 PM



I just measured my WWII and it is spot on 10”. I have never seen a thin kerf riving knife for the SS. But, that doesn t mean they don t exist. I would recommend getting just the standard WWII. However, I would also recommend getting the one with the flat bottomed teeth. It is such a joy to use for making shoulder cuts for tenons. There are no scoring lines to contend with. I have 1 1/2 HP Jet contractor saw. I have had no issues in using the standard width blade. When cutting 8/4 hard maple, I just have to feed it a tad slower than normal. Otherwise, the power has been fine. I have noticed at times that the blade will not cut as cleanly as it normally does. When I notice that, I inspect the blade and usually determine it is in need of a good cleaning. I think your PCS 1.75 will handle the normal kerf just fine. You will also be able to quicker setups knowing your blade is 1/8” instead of 3/32”. I hate having to do math down to the 32nd if I don t have to.

- Breeze73

Thanks for the advice. I will do that today. I do want the flatbottom teeth, I think it is varied on the blade so you get a few to slice and one to flatten.

-- A severed foot is the ultimate stocking stuffer.

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Breeze73

100 posts in 886 days


#7 posted 05-29-2018 07:29 PM


Thanks for the advice. I will do that today. I do want the flatbottom teeth, I think it is varied on the blade so you get a few to slice and one to flatten.

- BroncoBrian

That’s good to know. Next time I get a nice 10” blade I’ll pick one of these up. When I need a flat bottomed cut, I use just one of my Dado blades. But, the drawback is that it’s only an 8” blade. It’s usually not a problem. But I’m sure I will eventually need a flat bottomed blade with a longer reach.

-- Breeze

View Kazooman's profile

Kazooman

1241 posts in 2157 days


#8 posted 05-29-2018 08:09 PM

I have the special grind Woodworker II. All of the teeth are ground to produce a flat bottomed cut. However, each tooth has one corner slightly ground off at a fairly shallow angle. The side of that is removed alternates tooth by tooth around the blade. You can just about make out the small grinds in this image of the Forrest Special Grind #1 blade.

The blade does produce a very nice flat bottomed kerf. I am not certain that is the best choice for an all around every day user. They make and sell many more of the regular grind blades I would imagine that the regular grind slices the edges of the kerf much more efficiently giving it an advantage in speed and smoothness for crosscuts. Others who know more about saw blades (or think that they do) can chime in with more information. I own BOTH grinds of Woodworker II blades and the regular blade stays on my SawStop PCS unless I really need the flat bottomed kerf.

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BroncoBrian

854 posts in 2164 days


#9 posted 05-29-2018 09:29 PM

The Woodworker II Modified is the one I think I am after. Might have to order it.

It is their ATBR which adds a flat tooth into the mix. Looks like it is standard kerf only.

Has anyone gone between the 1/8 and 3/32 enough to decide that is matters more than some waste? Is the 1/8 stiffness a plus? The SS stock blade was 1/8 and the saw can handle the blade weight fine. Or Dados would be especially challenging.

-- A severed foot is the ultimate stocking stuffer.

View Kazooman's profile

Kazooman

1241 posts in 2157 days


#10 posted 05-29-2018 10:51 PM

That blade is designed to be a great all purpose blade. It should perform very well for crosscuts and rips. It probably won’t compare to a dedicated rip blade, but unless you are doing a lot of ripping, you probably wouldn’t see a huge difference.

However, as the picture shows it does NOT cut a kerf with a perfectly flat bottom. That is the province of the Woodworker II with the Special Grind #1.

As an interesting aside, I have noticed that my spell checker does not understand the word “kerf”. I probably need to up grade to something that is more woodworking friendly.

View BroncoBrian's profile

BroncoBrian

854 posts in 2164 days


#11 posted 05-29-2018 11:30 PM

kerf.
kerf.
kerf.

Mine seems fine with it.

I ordered the WW II 40T TK blade. I will be a better all-purpose blade as suggested. I will get a good ripper as well when I come back from NY with a load of chestnut. Then it is on!

Hopefully, the blade is actually 10” and my knife will be fine. If not, it will get a bit of a haircut.

-- A severed foot is the ultimate stocking stuffer.

View Woodmaster1's profile

Woodmaster1

1075 posts in 2792 days


#12 posted 05-30-2018 12:49 AM

I got a blade at cost from the woodworking store because they were shy of 10” and didn’t work on the SS. His loss my gain.

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

8154 posts in 3581 days


#13 posted 05-30-2018 01:11 AM


...Has anyone gone between the 1/8 and 3/32 enough to decide that is matters more than some waste? Is the 1/8 stiffness a plus? The SS stock blade was 1/8 and the saw can handle the blade weight fine…

- BroncoBrian

The stiffness of the 1/8” full kerf is certainly a plus, but iS also 33% wider than the 3/32” TK and requires more power to spin it….it’s most noticeable in thicker materials. Deflection from the TK isn’t likely to be an issue on a well tuned saw using flat straight stock unless you get into some wonky grains like mesquite, or do marathon cutting sessions that heat the blade up a lot. Keep it clean and it’ll serve you well.

FWIW, the Ridge Carbide TS2000 has a stock ATB/R configuration and is also available in both kerfs. It’s every bit the equal of a WWII and tends to cost less.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

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BroncoBrian

854 posts in 2164 days


#14 posted 05-30-2018 01:14 AM

Thanks for the link KnotScott. Their Dado looks just like the Forrest and is about the same price.

Poking around, great site.

-- A severed foot is the ultimate stocking stuffer.

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