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Bandsaw resaw / book match -- advice?

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Forum topic by ben posted 03-27-2008 12:48 AM 6756 views 1 time favorited 18 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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ben

158 posts in 3870 days


03-27-2008 12:48 AM

Topic tags/keywords: band saw resaw book match

In order to build my end tables, I was planning to buy 8/4 walnut stock at at least 8.5” wide, and resaw it to get a nice book matched top. Thus far, I have only resawn a couple small pieces for zero clearance inserts… in other words, nothing that counts.

To pull it off for this project, I will have to add a riser kit to my bandsaw. And I will have to not screw it up on expensive walnut. Any advice, or will this be a easy breezy?

I have watched the wood whisperer video on bandsaw tuning, but little else… so in theory I should be able to adjust for blade wander. However, my fence locks on both sides, and if the blade wanders substantially, the fence will be useless. I know Kreg (and others) make after-market bandsaw fences and resawing guides, but since I’m forking out >$100 for the riser kit, I wonder if I can jig my way to happiness for the fence.

Thanks.

-ben


18 replies so far

View GaryK's profile

GaryK

10262 posts in 3988 days


#1 posted 03-27-2008 12:51 AM

If you don’t mind losing a little more wood you can use the table saw. Make two passes and cut out the middle
with a hand saw. Then run it through the planer as you normally would.

You can also mark a line down the center and freehand it. Not that big of a deal for stock only 8.5 thick.
Once again run it through the planer.

What kind of band saw do you have?

Also remember if you get e riser block all your current blades will be useless.

-- Gary - Never pass up the opportunity to make a mistake look like you planned it that way - Tyler, TX

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TheCaver

288 posts in 3839 days


#2 posted 03-27-2008 01:18 AM

Resawing 8/4 walnut? No big deal, even for a 14”.

You don’t need anything more than a regular fence that has been drift compensated and a nice sharp 3TPI blade. That is expensive wood, I would buy a new blade for this project, at least 1/2” 3TPI hook tooth, then compensate your fence for drift. Add a tall (at least 3-4”) aux fence and you are ready to go. Practice on a piece of poplar just to make sure the fence is good and go to town! (make sure 8/4 is enough to leave some wiggle room in case you are a little off or your blade wanders a tad)....Don’t think you will resaw to 13/16 and certainly get 3/4 out of it…..at least not with a standard 14” saw…..

Oh, and dont forget a wide featherboard to keep the same pressure on the side….

JC

-- Somewhere, something incredible is waiting to be known. -Carl Sagan

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Bob #2

3809 posts in 4021 days


#3 posted 03-27-2008 01:24 AM

You will have to really check you 8/4 stock for straight and wane if you want 4/4 out.
I just bought some 5/4 to resaw and can barely get 1/2” over about 3 feet . this from a 6 foot chunk.

Bob

-- A mind, like a home, is furnished by its owner

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HallTree

5664 posts in 3767 days


#4 posted 03-27-2008 01:45 AM

In addition to what JC, Thecarver, said, get some scrap (about a 1×4x12). Draw a line down the middle of one side and without any guide other than the line start cutting. After about 6” stop the cut and hold the board at that position. Clamp down the fence up next to the board and continue cutting and see if the cut stays along the line.

-- "Hold on to instruction, do not let it go; guard it well, for it is your life" Solomon

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gizmodyne

1779 posts in 4090 days


#5 posted 03-27-2008 02:03 AM

I always joint one face and square and edge to that face so that I am running a flat edge against the fence. With it square to the table you will get almost parallel faces after re-sawing.

-- -John "Do I have to keep typing a smiley? Just assume it's a joke."

View jimp's profile

jimp

208 posts in 3761 days


#6 posted 03-27-2008 02:04 AM

Ben -

I just saw this video on Fine Woodworking on setting up your bandsaw for resawing. I hope it helps.

http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/SkillsAndTechniques/SkillsAndTechniquesArticle.aspx?id=28108

JIM

-- - Jim, Carroll, OH

View TheCaver's profile

TheCaver

288 posts in 3839 days


#7 posted 03-27-2008 02:16 AM

Gizmo makes an excellent point….I do the same before resawing…..

JC

-- Somewhere, something incredible is waiting to be known. -Carl Sagan

View GaryK's profile

GaryK

10262 posts in 3988 days


#8 posted 03-27-2008 02:19 AM

I forgot about jointing one corner first, like gizmo says.

-- Gary - Never pass up the opportunity to make a mistake look like you planned it that way - Tyler, TX

View ben's profile

ben

158 posts in 3870 days


#9 posted 03-27-2008 02:27 AM

This stuff info is excellent! I hope to resaw it next week so I can let the wood rest while I’m on vacation. I’ll be sure to follow up with a note about whether this works or not.

To answer a couple points:
  • My target thickness is only 5/8”
  • it’s a jet closed based 14”

Gary, I’m intrigued by the table + hand saw idea. I may try it on one of the tops just to compare.

Thanks again!

-b

View Sawdust2's profile

Sawdust2

1466 posts in 4087 days


#10 posted 03-27-2008 04:17 AM

I often use table saw/bandsaw to resaw.

I’ve not had good luck with my Timberwolf blades. I’ve gotten Highland Woodworking’s resaw p]blade and am waiting for the opportunity to use that. I have heard nothing but good reports on it.

Lee

-- No piece is cut too short. It was meant for a smaller project.

View Al Navas's profile

Al Navas

305 posts in 3875 days


#11 posted 03-27-2008 04:27 AM

Ben,

You might want to look at the 1/16-inch thick walnut veneers sold by Sommerfeld Tools for Woodworking= . I suggest you give them a call.

I also have posted several items on my blog, addressing band saw adjustments, and veneering. You might be interested in looking at these items . Enjoy!

-- Al Navas, Country Club, MO, http://sandal-woodsblog.com

View alan coon's profile

alan coon

115 posts in 3713 days


#12 posted 03-27-2008 04:46 AM

Whatron said, also make sure back of blade is in very cent. of saw kerf.

-- Al, South E. Az., But it's a dry heat.

View Lakey's profile

Lakey

97 posts in 3772 days


#13 posted 03-27-2008 10:57 PM

Resawing on the table saw is easy, all right, but it does convert more wood into sawdust. My two cents are thus: don’t waste money on an aftermarket bandsaw fence. All you need is a nice, flat chunk of hardwood about 6” high and 2” thick that spans your table and a couple of clamps to lock it down. (I think Popular Woodworking has an article on their website right now.) Do you know how to check for drift?

—Lakey

-- "No Board Left Behind"

View ben's profile

ben

158 posts in 3870 days


#14 posted 03-28-2008 12:56 AM

Al, while I am intrigued by the idea of using veneer, I think I would prefer to try the resaw technique, frankly just to learn it. Veneering will come soon enough though! In any case, I will check out your other links right now :)

AFA blades, I am ordering 2 blades and a riser kit tonight. Some people seem to love the Timberwolf, some hate it… I’ve been curious if it’s a quality control thing, or just personal preferences. I haven’t yet decided what to order, frankly.

For drift, the thing that I learned was to take a straight-edged scrap piece, draw a straight line through the middle (parallel w/ edge), and free cut along the straight line halfway through the length. Then kill the blade, and line up the fence w/ that piece. Is there a better way?

Thanks again for all the advice. This is why I love this board. I have so many questions, and you all have so many answers!

-b

View Al Navas's profile

Al Navas

305 posts in 3875 days


#15 posted 03-28-2008 01:21 AM

ben,

Commercial veneers are typically 1/42nd of an inch thick, or 0.023” to 0.027” thick. What some people sell is more the thickness that you and I might make in our shops, somewhere between 1/16” to 1/8” thick. The Sommerfeld stuff I mentioned falls in this latter category ;-) .

I am glad you ARE willing to make your own – GREAT! You will love it, I am sure.

I use Timberwolf blades – have always had very good results with them. And frankly, I am puzzled by some of the negative comments about them.

For resawing you typically would select a 3 TPI blade, which allows the blade to move the saw dust much better than blades with more TPI. I suggest you call the people at Suffolk Machinery, and talk to their Tech Support people. They will recommend exactly what you will need.

Your method of adjusting for drift is perfect. Stay with it!

Good luck, ben.

-- Al Navas, Country Club, MO, http://sandal-woodsblog.com

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