Advice on castiron repair

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Forum topic by zindel posted 06-10-2011 04:09 PM 2360 views 0 times favorited 31 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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257 posts in 2674 days

06-10-2011 04:09 PM

So a few weeks ago i scored on an old Powermatic jointer the only issue there is a small part that is broken, it has no affect on the operation or accuracy it just makes the table wobble while adjusting the infeed but i have the part that is broken off and i would like to be able to at least JB weld it back on? Anyone have any advice if this will work on not? i have heard that if you just grid the cast iron down enough to allow some place for the jb to sit it will hold quite nicely. it is just like 1 inch of the track that the infeed table sits on. Still works fine without it.

-- If you can't fix it with a hammer, You've got an electrical problem.

31 replies so far

View crank49's profile


4032 posts in 2994 days

#1 posted 06-10-2011 04:50 PM

JB, in my opinion will work for cosmetic repair. I would not expect it to have much structural strength; depends on how much surface you have in the bond. You need some mechanical support for the bonded materials. Think of the difference in a butt joint and a dovetail joint when it comes to strength. Glued metal is not that much diffrent than glued wood in that regard.

A true repair requires brazing or welding with nickel rod. Brazing and welding both may require pre-heating. Cast iron is just not easy to fix.

View helluvawreck's profile


31363 posts in 2890 days

#2 posted 06-10-2011 05:12 PM

Sometimes we have a wreck on one of our molders and break a cast iron part. We usually have it brazed. It will usually last quite a while and may never break again. In my experience, brazing takes someone that knows what they are doing.

-- helluvawreck aka Charles,

View Planeman40's profile


1179 posts in 2784 days

#3 posted 06-10-2011 05:26 PM

Ditto on the brazing.

Cast iron brazes well using brass filler rod and a brazing flux made for cast iron, This is done with an oxy-acetylene torch. The repair should be permanent


-- Always remember: It is a mathematical certainty that half the people in this country are below average in intelligence!

View zindel's profile


257 posts in 2674 days

#4 posted 06-10-2011 05:42 PM

Well like i said its not a big issue its more of a cosmetic thing and sadly i did not buy it this way it was during transport that this happened. once the table is set it does not matter…just wanted to see if anyone tried any type of glue for more of a look than support.

-- If you can't fix it with a hammer, You've got an electrical problem.

View zindel's profile


257 posts in 2674 days

#5 posted 06-10-2011 05:43 PM

But i wish i knew how to braze or someone who did because that would be handy!

-- If you can't fix it with a hammer, You've got an electrical problem.

View Bertha's profile


13529 posts in 2717 days

#6 posted 06-10-2011 07:15 PM

I wonder if you couldn’t just pin it somehow, then bondo & paint. I know that’s not exactly the “right” way to do it but if a simple bolt will keep it from rocking, and the rest is only cosmetic, who knows. I’m just thinking aloud here. When I worked in the brewing industry, we had a guy who was a really good braizer and about 20 guys who thought they were. We had quite a few big cast iron breaks relating to grain hoppers.

-- My dad and I built a 65 chev pick up.I killed trannys in that thing for some reason-Hog

View dbray45's profile


3320 posts in 2800 days

#7 posted 06-10-2011 08:15 PM

I have brazed and welded steel and iron but I would not touch cast iron. Cast iron has this tendency to break, crack, explode while heating – but then again, I am not a professional welder.

This would take a good welder/fabricator to fix this correctly.

-- David in Damascus, MD

View MedicKen's profile


1615 posts in 3486 days

#8 posted 06-10-2011 08:33 PM

JB Weld should be fine for the repair. If you want to weld it I would suggest taking it to someone with experience in welding cast. I can be brazed as well. If welded the parts should be preheated and then welded with a high nickle rod and then allowed to cool SLOWLY.

-- My job is to give my kids things to discuss with their

View BobTheFish's profile


361 posts in 2575 days

#9 posted 06-10-2011 11:37 PM

I’d go with what everyone else says, but in my experience, cast iron is not an easy fix, and even if fixed, it’s still not the greatest of repairs. Cast iron is the least iron-pure, carbon heavy variety of iron/steel made if memory serves correctly, and it’s just really brittle and easy to damage. I definitely wouldn’t attempt to repair yourself.

View Don Johnson's profile

Don Johnson

686 posts in 2804 days

#10 posted 06-11-2011 03:46 PM

Sorry to go off topic, but elsewhere someone mentioned that he always misreads a poster’s name as something quite different – when I saw this topic, I thought it was ‘Advice on Castration Repair’

My brain is going ! LOL

-- Don, Somerset UK,

View patron's profile


13606 posts in 3364 days

#11 posted 06-12-2011 04:23 AM

off topic too


for ‘Advice on Castration Repair’

your answer is in cr1’s response

“Ya gotta heat the whole thing to 900 Degrees”

good luck with that lol

-- david - only thru kindness can this world be whole . If we don't succeed we run the risk of failure. Dan Quayle

View skeeter's profile


233 posts in 3364 days

#12 posted 06-12-2011 04:34 AM

nickel rod and a grinder

-- My philosophy: Somewhere between Norm and Roy

View papadan's profile


3584 posts in 3392 days

#13 posted 06-12-2011 04:46 AM

I use Nickle and DC welder for cast iron quite often, Zindel, where are you located? Maybe an LJ could give you a hand with it.

View lilredweldingrod's profile


2496 posts in 3130 days

#14 posted 06-12-2011 05:49 AM

Zindel, where you located? If you are near Southern California, I can fix it for you. Since the piece is already broken off, the pre heat is not necessary. Preheat is just to keep the crack from traveling. I still have a ton of a stainless rod I have used for years and never had a failure with it. It will leave a slight discoloration in the metal in the repaired area.
I looked for the numbers on the rods but they seem to have disappeared.
If you know a welder or have the capabilities yourself I would be glad to send you a handful to make this repair. The important thing is to grind a V notch for the rod to fill in, then sand the bead smooth. It is a 3/32 rod that requires about 75 amps DC. I will be glad to walk you through it on the phone as this rod takes all the high tech out of welding cast iron. We used to call it Super Missile Rod. lol I paid $35.00 a lb back in the 80’s. Worth every penny too.
I believe the manufactures name is Nemco and the rods tensile is in the neighborhood of 130,000. I have used this stuff on every thing from engine blocks to huge electric motor frames, to valves in oil refineries etc. Much easier to use than Ni-rod and much stronger.
Brass rod with plain old Borax works great too, unless you have a high stress in the area. If I can help, PM me.

View zindel's profile


257 posts in 2674 days

#15 posted 06-12-2011 06:12 AM

Wow thanks guys! I live in Nebraska but thanks for the great offer lilread! I think i will give JB a try since it doesn’t hold much pressure anyways. If you know any jocks in Nebraska i would always like to meet them though!

-- If you can't fix it with a hammer, You've got an electrical problem.

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