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First attempt at re-sawing

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Forum topic by Octavius posted 06-09-2011 09:29 PM 1089 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Octavius

51 posts in 1828 days


06-09-2011 09:29 PM

This was on a Rikon 10-320 (14” bandsaw with approx 6” resaw capability) using 13/16” soft maple.
Looks like the thicker piece is mostly 9/16 to 5/8”.
Is this how good it gets or can I somehow improve.
Blade is a 3/4” with 3tpi and I just used a 2×4 as a fence, angled somewhat to account for blade drift.
The blade was tensioned as hard as I could get.
About halfway through I flipped the piece over to finish the cut.

Criticism welcome!

Cheers


8 replies so far

View GaryL's profile

GaryL

1077 posts in 1486 days


#1 posted 06-09-2011 09:53 PM

The first time is always the most nerve racking..lol
You may want to use something that is dead flat for your fence (shop built ply, aluminum, aftermarket, etc.) to get a more consistent thickness. Also make sure your table is tuned to 90deg to the blade.
Possibly a blade upgrade also. Looks like you have a pretty good drift.

-- Gary; Marysville, MI...Involve your children in your projects as much as possible, the return is priceless.

View richgreer's profile

richgreer

4524 posts in 1730 days


#2 posted 06-09-2011 10:10 PM

It can get better than this. It takes some experience.

Many people, including myself, prefer to use a resaw post for resawing. It’s a post that connects to your fence in line with the blade. This allows you to steer the wood through the blade without worrying about compensating for the drift when setting the fence. A resaw post is item H on page 9 of this manual.

http://content.wmhtoolgroup.com/manuals/710750B_man.pdf

They might offer a resaw post for your bandsaw, but they are more common on band saws that are specifically designed for resaw work. If you cannot buy one, you can easily make one. If I were to make one, I would use PVC pipe.

-- Rich, Cedar Rapids, IA - I'm a woodworker. I don't create beauty, I reveal it.

View cabmaker's profile

cabmaker

1311 posts in 1464 days


#3 posted 06-09-2011 10:20 PM

As rich stated a resaw post (or guide pin) may eliminate much of this , that is if the cause were a result of a bowed board. Hard to tell from the angle of your pic.It appears you have your fence set for drift but Im kinda surprised that 3/4 blade allows that much drift on you. Have you looked to see where your blade is riding on the upper wheel ?It appears you may be a little forward of the crown. Anyway, good luck, and it will get better. JB

View Bertha's profile

Bertha

12951 posts in 1348 days


#4 posted 06-09-2011 10:24 PM

Hey, who makes your 3/4” and are you happy with it?
I just ordered a 141” x 1” Lenox and I’m anxious to try it.

-- My dad and I built a 65 chev pick up.I killed trannys in that thing for some reason-Hog

View wasmithee's profile

wasmithee

55 posts in 1348 days


#5 posted 06-09-2011 11:08 PM

I’m still finding my with re-sawing too. I liked the following video, perhaps you will too:
http://theapprenticeandthejourneyman.com/2011/01/25/how-to-adjust-for-band-saw-blade-drift/

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Octavius

51 posts in 1828 days


#6 posted 06-10-2011 02:32 AM

Wow! Many thanks for the replies!

Gary, Yes, I’ll try a home-made fence – thanks for the suggestion. I have some nice Baltic Birch just waiting to be made in to something. I did check the 90 deg to the table before I started. I hear you on the blade upgrade.
The bandsaw came with 9 extra blades (!) The first 3/4” blade I tried had a “set” to it and made a godawful sound
when running. I’m thinking that can now only be cut up to make hand saws now, right? The second one looked OK and seem to run OK. Maybe it just needs a sharpening.

Rich, Good thinking about using PVC pipe – I’ll try that, as well as the home-made fence and see which I like best.

JB, I spent a fair amount of time aligning the top wheel so the blade runs in the center. Maybe I should have the
teeth further back? Yeah, sorry about the pic but I was trying to show too much – the bandsaw and the wood. As far as too much drift – maybe the blade is blunt or the tension wrong – I don’t have much of a clue. The blade doesn’t draw blood so maybe blunt. Also, maybe the tensioning spring needs to be upgraded – either that or the tensioning scale is inaccurate.

Al,
No name on any of the blades. I’ll try sharpening them myself before I get new ones.

Wasmithee,
Good video – he doesn’t talk much, does he. But I like the fence construction (so you can clamp it easily to the factory fence) and the idea of using wedges to account for any drift.

Onward and upward- thanks again for the encouragement and advice!

View gfadvm's profile

gfadvm

10874 posts in 1345 days


#7 posted 06-10-2011 04:05 AM

A Timberwolf resaw blade and a tall resaw fence markedly improved my resawing with no appreciable blade drift. Tensioning your blade “as hard as I could get” can damage your saw. The Timberwolf site has a good instructional on blade tensioning as well.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

View Octavius's profile

Octavius

51 posts in 1828 days


#8 posted 06-10-2011 11:30 PM

gfadvm,
Thanks for the link – I’ll re-tension next time with the flutter technique as described, thanks! Also, Spam vegetable oil for lubricant.
Cheers!

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