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New to me finishing technique

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Forum topic by MC posted 05-20-2018 03:00 PM 459 views 0 times favorited 5 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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MC

223 posts in 2431 days


05-20-2018 03:00 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question finishing

I enjoy building furniture up to the finishing part, then it is a chore. Part of my problem is the time involved to get to it right. My current primary finishing method is to hand plane flat surfaces with a smoothing plane keeping the blade sharp, touching up any trouble spots with a card scraper, and finally sanding curved areas with a 220 grit sandpaper. The next step is to apply a 1.5 pound cut of shellac followed by a card scraper and 220 grit sandpaper on curved areas. I then apply two coats of polyurethane, let this cure for a week and then polish out to 2000 grit sandpaper and finally a polishing compound. Once in a while I have a project where only a low sheen is required, for these projects I simply rub on a danish oil; I love the simplicity of this process!

I have a large piece that I am getting ready to start building which requires a polished look. I am looking at using Odie’s Oil. I have been watching videos and reading up on it. The process seems as simple as the danish oil except most are sanding to a 2000 grit or higher on the raw wood. I am looking for input on this finish and how it compares in appearance as well as durability to my current process. I do not want to sacrifice Quality but I need to speed up the finishing process.


5 replies so far

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MJR

118 posts in 498 days


#1 posted 05-20-2018 03:33 PM

I haven’t done it but I was looking into doing something with the Odies also, Looking forward to hearing about results and workability anyone has had.

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LesB

1791 posts in 3527 days


#2 posted 05-20-2018 05:02 PM

I just checked out their web site and I’m not sure they are not promoting a “snake” oil. I noticed they had several versions but I think the base has got to be either Tung oil or Linseed oil. They sell it in small quantities (9 oz.) probably because it starts setting up as soon as it is exposed to Oxygen which is how Tung and Linseed oil cure….note they do not dry they cure. Those people sanding to 2000 grit or higher are essentially “burnishing” the wood surface which in most cases would slow the infusion of the oil into the wood so more remains on the surface to cure and you get more coverage. The Odie’s web site has an interesting comparison chart showing the cost of treating 2400 sq ft and it took 14, 9oz bottles(1 gallon) of Odies with one coat compared to three coats or 14 gallons of Tung oil and 21 gallons of Poly. There is no mention of buying it in larger quantities than 9oz.

I hope someone with some actual experience chimes in here.

I think if you are looking for a durable finish I would go with poly.

-- Les B, Oregon

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Rich

3342 posts in 673 days


#3 posted 05-20-2018 05:47 PM

Odie’s is a legitimate product. It’s in the same ballpark as Tried & True. You use minuscule amounts, which is why a little goes such a long way.

I really want to like those oils. They leave a beautiful surface, but there’s pretty much no protection. Also, it takes days to get a decent number of coats.

-- Half of what we read or hear about finishing is right. We just don’t know which half! — Bob Flexner

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ArtMann

1009 posts in 900 days


#4 posted 05-21-2018 01:42 AM

What does the shellac do for you?

View woodbutcherbynight's profile

woodbutcherbynight

5488 posts in 2492 days


#5 posted 05-21-2018 02:15 AM

For a picture frame that gets little wear and tear less coats and ease of application sounds reasonable. But for tables, cabinets and what not boxes they get handled and a thin finish is going to wear through and they will not be happy. Here are two panels on a corner cabinet build I have underway for my shop. They are made out of BCX plywood and have 3 coats sprayed on gloss poly using a Critter. Used sanding sponge inbetween coats. Let them cure a week and polished with some car wax and done.

-- Live to tell the stories, they sound better that way.

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