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The ole' Thin Kerf Question with a Splitter

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Forum topic by brukilla posted 06-06-2011 03:36 PM 1898 views 1 time favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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brukilla

74 posts in 2707 days


06-06-2011 03:36 PM

Topic tags/keywords: thin kerf runout splitter

I have seen a couple other threads about thin kerf and splitter issues. I haven’t purchased anything, but I am about to purchase a G0715P 10” Hybrid Table Saw with Riving Knife, Polar Bear Series™ and Forrest thin kerf blades. I would like to avoid any aggravation with set-up and use.

Here is my situation:
Table Saw Splitter Kerf: 0.086 in.
I have two thin kerf blades ready for purchase: .090 and .100. The recommended blade kerf for the ts is 0.102 – 0.126.

I plan to have the back of the blade .003 – .005 off-set for safety, to avoid blade runout while cutting and during shutdown.

This is all making everything close and against manufacturers recommendations. – but I don’t know if it is actually acceptable among the woodworking community.

-- "Determine never to be idle. No person will have occasion to complain of the want of time who never loses any. It is wonderful how much may be done if we are always doing." - Thomas Jefferson


10 replies so far

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

4452 posts in 3424 days


#1 posted 06-06-2011 03:49 PM

I don’t understand the “back-of-the-blade” stuff.
I set the fence side of the splitter even with the fence side of the blade. Then, have 1/64” “lead” on the rear of the fence for clearance. Of course that has to change when I use the fence on the left side of the blade.
Bill

-- bill@magraphics.us

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knotscott

7213 posts in 2839 days


#2 posted 06-06-2011 06:02 PM

As long as the splitter is narrower than the kerf of the blade, and the splitter and blade are well aligned, the majority of good 3/32” TK’s should work fine… the majority are in the 0.094” to 0.098” range. I don’t want to convince anyone to disregard the manufacturer’s suggestions, but it’s possible that the suggestions are very conservative and involve some “CYA lawyer speak”. It’s worth double checking the splitter thickness when you get it.

Which Forrest blades are you considering?

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View brukilla's profile

brukilla

74 posts in 2707 days


#3 posted 06-06-2011 06:39 PM

knottscott,

H4746 – 10” x 5/8” 30t ATB .090 Ripping Blade
—————————————————————————————————
H4742 – 10” x 5/8” 60t ATB .100 General Purpose Blade

-- "Determine never to be idle. No person will have occasion to complain of the want of time who never loses any. It is wonderful how much may be done if we are always doing." - Thomas Jefferson

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knotscott

7213 posts in 2839 days


#4 posted 06-06-2011 08:09 PM

That’s a great combination of saw blades. The 30T WWII is also an excellent general purpose blade with an emphasis on thick ripping….you’ll find that it cuts nearly as cleanly as the 40T WWII in all but fine crosscuts and fine ply cuts, and that’s exactly where the 60T WWI will excel. (it’ll still do respectably well in most crosscuts) Forrest lists both blades as 3/32”, and IIRC the package may actually say 0.100”....no worries with the thickness IMHO.

I like your mix of blades a lot for that saw. You’ll get much the same benefit of using dedicated blades, without it be essential to change the blades out every time. What Grizzly is calling a 60T ATB general purpose blade is really a Hi-ATB grind with a 30° top bevel angle, which is a grind that’s well known for very low tearout. It’ll give super nice crosscuts and is excellent in sheet goods, but also gives very clean general purpose cuts. FWIW, Infinity Tools makes a blade that’s very similar to the WWI (010-060), which is a blade I’ve had for a while and used a lot with my former 22124 hybrid saw…I also mated with the 30T WWII TK…the two made in excellent team, and both are excellent general purpose blades, with each having a speciific strength at opposite ends of the cutting spectrum, so they’re paired perfectly together IMO. The 010-060 shows a kerf of 0.104”, and sells for $70….I’ve tried a lot of blades and have always found Infinity to be every bit the equal of Forrest, so it could save you $50 with no sacrifice in quality.

You should also be able to put the 60T blade on your CMS or SCMS if necessary.

Good luck.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

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brukilla

74 posts in 2707 days


#5 posted 06-06-2011 08:45 PM

Wow – thanks for the insight. I have been considering a cheaper alternative to the Forrest blades, but – honestly – it’s like Forrest blades are the “gold standard” and are guaranteed to perform. That is pretty much what I need. I am trying to avoid disappointment early on so that my interest stays and confidence grows with woodworking. But $50 bucks is $50 bucks and can be spent on a myriad of other shop tools – since I am just starting out, every penny counts. You make a convincing argument and I will take a look at your recommendation. These won’t be the only two blades in my shop for life. I will find a hundred reasons to get others – and I can’t always drop the big bucks for a blade. I just want to start off on the good foot.

I swear – everytime I think my tools list is etched in stone – another option always prevails and keeps me researching.

-- "Determine never to be idle. No person will have occasion to complain of the want of time who never loses any. It is wonderful how much may be done if we are always doing." - Thomas Jefferson

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

7213 posts in 2839 days


#6 posted 06-06-2011 09:21 PM

You’re starting off on “the good foot” alright…I honestly couldn’t recommend a more suitable pair of blades for that saw than the 30T WWII TK, and the 60T WWI TK or the 010-060.

That $50 saved would just about cover the cost of an Incra V27 miter gauge upgrade! :D

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View Simons44's profile

Simons44

93 posts in 2888 days


#7 posted 06-06-2011 10:33 PM

I own a G0715P and had about $125 budgets for a blade. I was going to buy the 60T WWI TK. I talked to Scott and ended up buying a Infinity 010-060 general purpose and a Infinity 010-024 ripping blade. I have been super happy with my decision. With a new baby the savings was ideal and the quality of the infinity is top notch! Enjoy the saw and blades.
-Jeremy

View gfadvm's profile

gfadvm

14940 posts in 2154 days


#8 posted 06-07-2011 04:36 AM

I have been very happy wit6h the Freud Diablo blades on my GO715p. I have a 24 and a 40 tooth. They last a long time ,cut very well, and are MUCH cheaper than the premium blades.I just cant make myself buy a $100 blade though I did buy the Freud box joint set[$95] and love them!

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

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heckler

1 post in 1053 days


#9 posted 02-25-2014 12:52 AM

I just bought the G0715P and have been taking my time to set it up as meticulously as I am able. As a complete newbie- I am hoping to avoid errors (and danger) that is caused by poor setup. I have read a lot about blade choices and there’s no shortage of it on LJ- but it can be a bit overwhelming. Like brukilla- I would love to find a high quality blade that could save me the $50 over the wwII- and am considering the Freud P410T (on amazon for about $70). Its likely that most of my early work will be with plywood and relatively soft woods- so I am leaning towards a combination blade. Does this look like a decent choice? and is think kerf the way to go? (i’ll be running on 110V)

any help is much appreciated!!

View jinkyjock's profile

jinkyjock

487 posts in 1038 days


#10 posted 02-25-2014 01:16 AM

Hi Brukilla, are you switching to thinner kerf blades for a specific purpose ? Unless you are making a multitude of cuts, e.g. cutting loads of thicknesses to laminate, then why mess with with your specs (riving-knife, throat size) and give yourself problems. Would be interested to hear why you are intent on changing.

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