Paper Patterns - Very Stupid Question

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Forum topic by Damage Inc. posted 06-04-2011 04:45 PM 1872 views 1 time favorited 25 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Damage Inc.

39 posts in 2290 days

06-04-2011 04:45 PM

I’m going to be starting a project that will have me using paper paterns for the first time. Looks like a lot of people cut them out and them adhere them to the wood to cut around.

Here’s my question: How are you sticking the pattern to the wood and then what do you use to make sure there is no adhesive stuck to the wood?

Thanks for the help.

25 replies so far

View therookie's profile


887 posts in 2248 days

#1 posted 06-04-2011 04:49 PM

I use spray adhesive and when I am done I take a heat gun and peel the pattern off of the wood then a light sanding and you are good to go..


View Gene Howe's profile

Gene Howe

8101 posts in 2850 days

#2 posted 06-04-2011 06:38 PM

I use Ketone or lacquer thinner. I wet down the paper first, peel it off and then wipe it with a rag and a little more solvent or thinner.
Wear Nitrile gloves and no open flame around.

-- Gene 'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton

View Paul Pomerleau's profile

Paul Pomerleau

306 posts in 2114 days

#3 posted 06-04-2011 07:25 PM

I don’t cut the paper first, I print it out on my printer on a full sheet.
I use spray adhesive and spray the paper not the wood.
Let it start to dry a bit and then place it on the wood.
It stays on enough for cutting on the band saw and comes right off when you are done.

-- Close to Ottawa Ontario Canada

View SCOTSMAN's profile


5839 posts in 3006 days

#4 posted 06-04-2011 08:31 PM

Paul is spot one with his answer he knows what’s what. Alistair

-- excuse my typing as I have a form of parkinsons disease

View WayneC's profile


12642 posts in 3518 days

#5 posted 06-04-2011 08:34 PM

One question. Are you going to make a bunch of the parts using the same patterns? If so it might be worth making hardboard or MDF templates.

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

View patron's profile


13524 posts in 2762 days

#6 posted 06-04-2011 08:42 PM

for intarsia
make a bunch of copy’s
you can cut and paste them
using the part you want cut outside the lines
to the wood
and if a blown piece happens
just cut another

-- david - only thru kindness can this world be whole . If we don't succeed we run the risk of failure. Dan Quayle

View Gregn's profile


1642 posts in 2405 days

#7 posted 06-04-2011 08:48 PM

When I do this process, I do as Paul. Another method I have for larger patterns that would require my going to the copiers for larger sheets of paper, is to use carbon paper placed between the wood and paper pattern.

-- I don't make mistakes, I have great learning lessons, Greg

View shipwright's profile


7091 posts in 2219 days

#8 posted 06-05-2011 12:17 AM

If the paper patterns are large, remember to check a few measurements against the plans. Paper is not all that dimensionally stable,

-- Paul M ..............If God wanted us to have fiberglass boats he would have given us fibreglass trees.

View TheDane's profile


4938 posts in 3084 days

#9 posted 06-05-2011 01:20 AM

I print the pattern backwards on my laser printer, position it on the workpiece, then dampen the paper with lacquer thinner, which transfers the laser toner to the wood.

Be careful not to drown the paper with lacquer thinner, or the toner will bleed, producing a fuzzy line.


-- Gerry -- "I don't plan to ever really grow up ... I'm just going to learn how to act in public!"

View horologist's profile


102 posts in 3160 days

#10 posted 06-05-2011 02:06 AM

I use rubber cement, a thin coat on both paper and wood, let dry and then put together. Don’t precut the paper, it makes following the line more difficult. To remove just peel off the paper and if there is any residue an eraser makes quick work of it. As others have mentioned copiers, laser printers, and the paper can all vary so it is important to check critical dimensions before cutting. If you are using the template on metal it is important to do any grinding before applying the template, the heat will break down the glue.

-- Troy in Melrose, Florida

View Mark's profile


1801 posts in 2695 days

#11 posted 06-05-2011 02:17 AM

carbon paper!

-- M.K.

View WayneC's profile


12642 posts in 3518 days

#12 posted 06-05-2011 02:19 AM

Anyone used a pattern transfer tool?

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

View Gregn's profile


1642 posts in 2405 days

#13 posted 06-05-2011 02:50 AM

Yup Mark, carbon paper. I bought in a couple of big sheets from a craft catalog outfit.

-- I don't make mistakes, I have great learning lessons, Greg

View BobTheFish's profile


361 posts in 1973 days

#14 posted 06-05-2011 03:15 AM

I don’t use patterns, but, provided you didn’t use any sort of industrial strength adhesive, shouldn’t you just be able to sand off the paper? I mean I understand not using epoxy (overkill anyhow), or wood glue, or something that seeps deep into the wood…..

And would hairspray work? Just curious, but it is technically a loose adhesive.

Again, I don’t use paper patterns, I’m just curious if anyone’s tried other methods.

View William's profile


9906 posts in 2263 days

#15 posted 06-05-2011 04:32 AM

I do a lot of scroll work. I never cut up my patterns. I copy them using a printer. Then I put painter’s tape on my wood. Then I use 3M Super 77 on the back of my pattern and stick it to the tape. That way, when done, everything peals right off.
This is for detailed patterns. For patterns for large pieces, I trace the pattern onto the wood using carbon paper. For doing this, I have a ball point pen in my shop that I have removed the ink tube out of and run the ink out of the head of it. This keeps ink off my patter, so I can reuse it, while allowing the ball to roll on the pattern to keep from tearing it.


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