Resawing Help!

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Forum topic by Brett posted 06-01-2011 01:18 AM 1951 views 0 times favorited 15 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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16 posts in 2600 days

06-01-2011 01:18 AM

Topic tags/keywords: resaw ripping

I have about 500 yellow pine 2×4’s that I got from work for free! I can get about 20 every week. I stopped getting them cause I really couldnt figure out a good use for them besides adding onto the house. Saturday I tried out ripping them down to 7/8” on my band saw, so that I could plane them down to 3/4”. It took forever, and it kept wanting to travel off to the side, making the rip too narrow. I tried my tablesaw for this the other day and the 2×4’s are not the best quality and keep binding up on the blade. I used a 3/8” 4 tpi , skip tooth raker set blade. Anyone know if I am using the wrong blade? I have seen this done before on videos and it didnt take them nearly as long as it did me. Maybe my bandsaw is just a peice of junk! LOL Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thank you!

-- Brett --- HOLY MOLY!

15 replies so far

View zzzzdoc's profile


550 posts in 3027 days

#1 posted 06-01-2011 01:22 AM

You can take 20 every week??!!!!!!? Are you slowly dismantling your workplace? Sounds like the Great Escape, or Stalag 17.

I would make sure your blade was tensioned sufficiently. I don’t have problems with it wandering once dialed in.

-- Before you criticize someone, you should walk a mile in their shoes. That way, when you criticize them, you're a mile away and you have their shoes.

View Brett's profile


16 posts in 2600 days

#2 posted 06-01-2011 01:28 AM

Some days I would like to dismantle it! LOL! We get trucks in every week, and they use them to sepperate 24’ stock lenghts of metal. I tightened the heck out of it, to the point I thought I might break it. What kind of blades do you use?

-- Brett --- HOLY MOLY!

View TheDane's profile


5441 posts in 3686 days

#3 posted 06-01-2011 01:32 AM

Highland Wood Slicer.


-- Gerry -- "I don't plan to ever really grow up ... I'm just going to learn how to act in public!"

View Gregn's profile


1642 posts in 3007 days

#4 posted 06-01-2011 01:45 AM

You might try using a 1/2” or 3/4” wide blade. Either way its a slow feed process but you will get better results with a wider blade. I use a 3/4” Timberwolf blade 4 TPI Hook and have had good results staying on line using a pivot fence and no binding.

-- I don't make mistakes, I have great learning lessons, Greg

View chrisstef's profile


17423 posts in 3030 days

#5 posted 06-01-2011 01:49 AM

Im not trying to be a wasteful person here but at that amount you could rip them down in the tablesaw to 7/8” and come up with some other project with the scraps … you could even laminate them back together little by little and create yourself a new work bench or assembly table. Lets see 20 a week, 52 weeks a year gets you 1040 pieces of 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 8’ . In a years time (and about 100 lbs of glue) you would have a bench 3 1/2” x 41’ x 8’ lol. Good luck gettin that drum sanded !!!

-- Its not a crack, its a casting imperfection.

View john's profile


2370 posts in 4405 days

#6 posted 06-01-2011 02:33 AM

Tablesaw is the way to go :-)

-- John in Belgrave (Website) ,

View Jim Finn's profile

Jim Finn

2657 posts in 2945 days

#7 posted 06-01-2011 02:53 AM

With all those free boards you could just plane them all down to the thickness you want. Lots of waste, but it seems that will not be an issue for you. This gets around the pinching issue you can get on a table saw while resawing them.

-- Website is No PHD just a DD214 and a GED

View Brett's profile


16 posts in 2600 days

#8 posted 06-01-2011 03:07 AM

Thanks all! Gerry, I went on the highland website and found a great article on resawing:

Here is another great site I think you all will appreciate!

-- Brett --- HOLY MOLY!

View rustfever's profile


752 posts in 3334 days

#9 posted 06-01-2011 03:08 AM

the right blade
the right tooth type and spacing
the right tension
the right feed speed.
= great sawing on the bandsaw

-- Rustfever, Central California

View DLCW's profile


530 posts in 2678 days

#10 posted 06-01-2011 03:12 AM

The most important thing is – is your bandsaw aligned properly? Have you gone through the process of accounting for drift and set in the blade? Every blade has some drift and set and is accounted for by adjusting the angle of the fence to the blade. There are many good videos and articles on how to align a bandsaw.

I regularly cut hickory up to 12” wide using a 3/8” 4tpi blade and get excellent results. Blade tracks very true, no drifting and a couple of light passes through the drum sander and the board is ready for parts. My Laguna bandsaw is highly tuned just for resawing.

Cutting 2×4 on a table saw is a ticket to disappointment. Unfortunately dimensional lumber is not the best dried stuff in the world. When you go to rip it (resaw it) on the table saw, the stress relief is going to cause all kinds of distortion in the wood causing binding and a high potential for dangerous kickback.

The bandsaw is the best way to resaw this lumber once it is fully aligned for resawing purposes.

David Marks has a great DVD on properly tuning up a bandsaw.

-- Don, Diamond Lake Custom Woodworks - - "If you make something idiot proof, all they do is make a better idiot"

View Brett's profile


16 posts in 2600 days

#11 posted 06-01-2011 03:17 AM

Thank you Don, And nice website you have! I messed around with the fence tonight, and got much better results. I had the fence way to straight with the table instead of the blade. I have got to get a better band saw! I really just got to using it, I just recently purchased my first house with a built in shop! Time to play!

-- Brett --- HOLY MOLY!

View richgreer's profile


4541 posts in 3098 days

#12 posted 06-01-2011 04:25 PM

Use your table saw to make a 1” cut on both sides. If you are only taking an inch, the saw is less likely to bind up.

Then, finish the job with your band saw. The blade likes to drift to the area with the least resistance – that will be where the table saw cuts are.

OF course, make sure your band saw blade has enough tension and bigger blades (3/4”) are better for this.

Most gauges on the side of the band saw understate the tension.

-- Rich, Cedar Rapids, IA - I'm a woodworker. I don't create beauty, I reveal it.

View Domer's profile


252 posts in 3390 days

#13 posted 06-01-2011 08:28 PM

Carter has a good DVD on how to set up your bandsaw for resawing.


View DLCW's profile


530 posts in 2678 days

#14 posted 06-02-2011 03:01 AM

My first bandsaw was a cheap Craftsman. From the store it was a total mess. I spent about 2 days getting it aligned and tuned up. After that I was resawing 6” to 7” boards using a 1/4” 4tpi blade and getting excellent results.

I’ve found that wider blades make for much rougher cuts, as there is more set to the blade tips, needing more cleanup time. My main resaw bandsaw, a Laguna 16”, uses a 3/8” 4tpi blade for all resaw operations. The limited blade tip set makes for a much smoother cut – read 1/16” veneer is very clean and requires only 1 pass through the drum sander. You have to cut slower but the results are better. My smaller Powermatic bandsaw uses a 1/4” 6tpi blade and I get excellent cuts on it as well once I tuned it up.

If I’m just hogging wood (cutting small logs) , I will switch to a 1” 2tpi very aggressive wood remover. I can jam wood through it all day. A lot of cleanup is required afterward but for small logs, this is the way to go. A company in Dayton, OH makes my blades for me. A 145” x 3/8” 4tpi blade for the Laguna costs around $29.

-- Don, Diamond Lake Custom Woodworks - - "If you make something idiot proof, all they do is make a better idiot"

View Loren's profile


10476 posts in 3671 days

#15 posted 06-02-2011 05:26 AM

I usually resaw 2×4s on the table saw in two passes. Sometimes I leave
a bit in the middle and split the board apart with a chisel or on the bandsaw.

Softwoods pitch up your bandsaw anyway. I’d rather keep my blades
sharp and clean for more precise bandsaw work. The band saw can
be a hassle to set up for resawing.

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