New toilet installation

  • Advertise with us

« back to Site Feedback forum

Forum topic by MrRon posted 05-31-2011 12:00 AM 2129 views 0 times favorited 13 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View MrRon's profile


4794 posts in 3268 days

05-31-2011 12:00 AM

Topic tags/keywords: question

I have to replace my toilet. The mounting base is cracked due to an uneven floor tile installation. The tiles are glazed 12×12 with a textured surface. What type of leveling material do I use to provide a level mounting surface?

13 replies so far

View ellen35's profile


2738 posts in 3457 days

#1 posted 05-31-2011 12:20 AM

Have you thought of posting this on the LJ sister site HomeRefurbers?
You might get a faster, better answer.

-- "Don't let the perfect be the enemy of the good." Voltaire

View dbol's profile


136 posts in 3023 days

#2 posted 05-31-2011 12:20 AM

Not sure what you mean. Your substrate needs to be flat and,there are many ways to go about making it flat. your toilet didn’t crack because of the floor being out of level. I suspect there were other reasons why including but not limited to out of level floor.

View ajosephg's profile


1880 posts in 3586 days

#3 posted 05-31-2011 12:32 AM

Level it with Durham’s Rock Hard Water Putty.

It’s a powder that you mix with water trowel it out, let dry and you’re good to go.

-- Joe

View MrRon's profile


4794 posts in 3268 days

#4 posted 05-31-2011 01:23 AM

[dbol] The toilet was installed over uneven floor tiles, varying as much as 3/16” in height. The reason the base cracked is because I couldn’t tighten the base down too snugly for fear of cracking the base, but I fell onto the toilet and my weight caused it to crack. The toilet was a bit wobbly on the floor and I tried to shim it to keep it from rocking. My son set the tiles in place and the concrete floor around the toilet flange was rough resulting in the unevenness. Water is now escaping at the base.

View dbol's profile


136 posts in 3023 days

#5 posted 05-31-2011 04:13 AM

Shim it. Put the rock hard putty around the base. Let it harden. Good to go.
It is possible to get floor tile relativley level with just thinset. Or you need to use a leveling compound over the concrete. Then install the tile, grout and toilet. Allowing enough time in between for everything to dry. If it still wobbles. Shim it and put a nice bead of caulking around the base of the toilet. I like to use the Dap in the red tube for around toilets. It gets pretty hard and makes future clean up around the toilet easier.
Or hire a professional to do your floor installation.

View Bertha's profile


13529 posts in 2718 days

#6 posted 05-31-2011 04:30 AM

From what I’ve heard, avoid the Loctite caulk, lol:)

-- My dad and I built a 65 chev pick up.I killed trannys in that thing for some reason-Hog

View GMman's profile


3902 posts in 3722 days

#7 posted 05-31-2011 01:54 PM

Go to HomeRefurbers better than LJ for this kind of work, good luck.

View Gregn's profile


1642 posts in 3008 days

#8 posted 05-31-2011 02:29 PM

Go to your local big box store and ask for floor leveling compound. It mixes like Durham’s rock hard putty but is more durable for this application.

-- I don't make mistakes, I have great learning lessons, Greg

View Sawkerf's profile


1730 posts in 3093 days

#9 posted 05-31-2011 03:56 PM

Hopefully, you’ve shut off the water, drained the toilet, and removed it. It’s toast and must be replaced.

The perfect solution would be to re-lay the tile and get it flat and level. Since that probably isn’t an option, you need to sit a new toilet in place using an extended wax ring and plastic leveling wedges.

Install the wax ring and new hold down bolts, then (using a level on the top of the bowl) slowly tighten the nuts until the base is touching at least one spot on the tile and is reasonably level in both directions. Then, use leveling wedges at each “corner” to fill any gaps, and tighten the bolts another turn. Mix some “Rock Hard” putty and pack the perimeter of the base to give it full support. When the putty is dry, you’re good to go.

You’ll need to keep an eye on the putty because it will eventually crack and break out. When it does, just repack the gap with new putty. I also trim the plastic wedges so they don’t protrude past the base.

This isn’t a “pretty” solution, but it works and can be done so it doesn’t look too awful. – lol

-- Adversity doesn't build reveals it.

View MrRon's profile


4794 posts in 3268 days

#10 posted 05-31-2011 05:34 PM

Sawkerf: Sounds like a good plan. How about instead of water putty, I used mortar or concrete patch?

View Sawkerf's profile


1730 posts in 3093 days

#11 posted 05-31-2011 05:50 PM

Anything that will solidfy should work. The real trick is to remember that you don’t have a primo installation and that it needs to be checked once in a while.

Next time, make sure that the substrate and tile is dead-level before the tile goes down. (Experience speaking here. – lol)

-- Adversity doesn't build reveals it.

View patron's profile


13606 posts in 3366 days

#12 posted 05-31-2011 06:02 PM

the instructions above
are great solutions

the hardest part of this job
is over

getting out of the toilet
you fell into

-- david - only thru kindness can this world be whole . If we don't succeed we run the risk of failure. Dan Quayle

View MrRon's profile


4794 posts in 3268 days

#13 posted 05-31-2011 06:09 PM

Sounds like the wedge and water putty is the way to go. Thanks all for your expertise. This is a project that will be accomplished today if I can get my fat a** in gear.

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics