Finally - Purchasing Foundation Workshop Tools - Is a 2hp ts strong enough?

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Forum topic by brukilla posted 05-30-2011 06:00 AM 2630 views 0 times favorited 20 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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74 posts in 3439 days

05-30-2011 06:00 AM

Topic tags/keywords: question

I am about to pull the trigger on purchasing my workshop tools. I have been on the site (lj) over a year now – things take time, but worth the wait. I have honed in on the Grizzly 2hp hybrid tablesaw – Moderately priced and about 600 cheaper than the 3hp tablesaw I am looking at.

I am concerned with the 2hp not being enough, increasing the chance of kick back, and general lack of confidence while making cuts (a very bad thing).

Of course the 3hp is better, and, if I could, spend the extra and get the more powerful saw – but I am on a budget and would rather have a more solid foundation of tools – 600 bucks can buy a few things.

Your experience will definitely help me out. Thanks.

-- "Determine never to be idle. No person will have occasion to complain of the want of time who never loses any. It is wonderful how much may be done if we are always doing." - Thomas Jefferson

20 replies so far

View Gary's profile


9386 posts in 3629 days

#1 posted 05-30-2011 07:05 AM

Lots of Jocks have machines that have only a 1 1/2 hp motor.

-- Gary, DeKalb Texas only 4 miles from the mill

View brukilla's profile


74 posts in 3439 days

#2 posted 05-30-2011 07:24 AM

I am probably oversweating it because I am about to purchase. I should be just fine for several years to come with the 2hp.

-- "Determine never to be idle. No person will have occasion to complain of the want of time who never loses any. It is wonderful how much may be done if we are always doing." - Thomas Jefferson

View a1Jim's profile


117328 posts in 3773 days

#3 posted 05-30-2011 07:28 AM

Depends on what you will be sawing as to if it will do the job for you.

-- wood crafting & woodworking classes

View WinterSun's profile


163 posts in 2806 days

#4 posted 05-30-2011 07:46 AM

If you’re like many of us and most of what you’ll be doing involves 4/4 lumber and sheet goods, you’ll be fine with 2 HP. I have a 1.5 HP saw and it’s been fine for everything I’ve done with it. Only once have I had a problem: it bound up while ripping a piece of reaction maple and tripped the breaker. I was able to keep the board under complete control… who knows, a more powerful saw might have overcome the pressure I was applying and thrown the board back at me.

-- Rory // Milwaukee, WI

View philip marcou's profile

philip marcou

265 posts in 2793 days

#5 posted 05-30-2011 12:44 PM

Keep in mind that now is the age of the THIN KERF tungsten tipped saw blade. These blades require much less horse power than the common HUGE kerf many toothed tungsten tipped items.
Which of those saws you mentioned has a sliding table? THAT is more compelling option to consider, not the difference between 2 and 3 horses…..
See my old Delta-now with thin kerf blade and at 1.25hp it zips through any hardwoods I want to cut.
Whilst on the subject of boards being “thrown back”: if you stand in line with the saw blade you are destined to perform The Japanese Salute sooner rather than later no matter how many horses you have….

View rogerdodger's profile


15 posts in 2885 days

#6 posted 05-30-2011 01:31 PM

I have the Ridgid R4512 with 13 amp motor that does good on crosscutting boards.
When It comes to ripping boards,A good 24 tpi ripping blade and the riving knife helps out alot.
I don’t know if the grizzly hybrid saw comes with the riving knife.
I do have the Grizzly G0555 bandsaw and that Grizzly product is great.

View papadan's profile


3584 posts in 3565 days

#7 posted 05-30-2011 01:36 PM

Quality blades make the difference in all saws, not hp. I have a little jobsite saw and work with nothing but hardwoods and exotics.

View jusfine's profile


2422 posts in 3122 days

#8 posted 05-30-2011 05:45 PM

I would agree, spend your money on Forrest blades instead of the upgrade…

All the Best!

-- Randy "You are judged as much by the questions you ask as the answers you give..."

View knotscott's profile


8144 posts in 3572 days

#9 posted 05-30-2011 06:13 PM

I’m happy to have a 3hp saw, but they require 220v operation, and my 2hp contractor saw and 1-3/4hp hybrid were plenty capable for most hobby work. The smaller saws are more sensitive about alignment and blade selection. Forrest has some nice blades, but I wouldn’t look past Infinity, Freud, CMT, Amana, Ridge Carbide, or Tenryu.

A good 1-1/2hp to 2hp TS and a planer and/or jointer or other critical tool will add more capability to your shop than just a 3hp TS.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View brukilla's profile


74 posts in 3439 days

#10 posted 05-30-2011 11:36 PM

I am going with the Grizzly 2hp Hybrid – final decision. I have a couple of Forrest Blades on the list, but will move down to the thin kerf options. As for the sliding table, the most I will do is build a crosscut sled. I plan on keeping the saw w/220v so the lights don’t flicker when I turn on the saw and so it has as much juice as possible for cutting.

-- "Determine never to be idle. No person will have occasion to complain of the want of time who never loses any. It is wonderful how much may be done if we are always doing." - Thomas Jefferson

View Jim Finn's profile

Jim Finn

2686 posts in 3118 days

#11 posted 05-31-2011 02:41 AM

Wintersun has a good point about being abel to overcome the kickback pressure of your saw. I have a 1 1/2 HP saw and have overcome this pressure a few times.

-- No PHD just a DD214 Website>

View gfadvm's profile


14940 posts in 2886 days

#12 posted 05-31-2011 04:19 AM

I have the saw you are considering and have been very happy with it. I agree that blades make all the difference but Im not ready to spend $100 for a blade so I use the Freud Diablo blades. My saw has plenty of power to rip 8/4 Jatoba using the 40 tooth Diablo. I would agree with the 220v choice.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

View Kevin's profile


466 posts in 3401 days

#13 posted 05-31-2011 04:32 AM

Brukilla, sometimes if you check you can find freud blades at reallly good prices.

You can opt for a 50T for a general purpose blade and do good crosscuts and rips or opt for a 24T and a 80T to have a dedicated rip and crosscut blade.

I have the full kerf 24T, 50T and 80T Freud, CMT and DeWalt Industrial blades. The DeWalt blade isn’t the ones they sell in Lowes or HD, just plain silver, but it’s been a good general purpose one.

Forrest makes some awesome blades also, but i’ve not found those on sale like I have Freud’s on amazons site lately.

Good luck.

-- Williamsburg, KY

View JohnKaye's profile


17 posts in 2960 days

#14 posted 06-01-2011 10:55 PM

I had a 1.5 horse contactor saw. I learned a few things from that bugger. One is alignment. Keep it aligned properly and use the right blades, zero clearance inserts, atoothed drive belt, and a splitter and it worked great. You just feed properly and results are great. Along the way I acquired several hundred board feet of hard maple, soft maple, and cherry. these are/were 10/4 through 12/4. I had to use a slow feed rate with a thin kerf blade to rip these suckers – but that’s all.
I did purchase a 3 HP 52” saw. This saw does cut better – feed rates are faster. The tune up is still needed as above. I just bought grip-tite pro’s on sale as I just want more safety. My guess is that a 2HP would be fine. As I understand Hybrids, they are an enclosed contractor saw. The top of a contractors saw rides on trunions and these are difficult to align – although peachtree sells pals for this. Check to see how the table top alignment is done on the hybrid you want. Alignment is part of safety (and accuracy as well).

View dbhost's profile


5767 posts in 3428 days

#15 posted 06-01-2011 11:10 PM

I have no issues with a 1.5HP universal motor on my Ryobi. That Grizzly should be a no brainer if you have the bucks for it… Having said that, yes, 3 HP is better than 2, but I wouldn’t give it too much weight in your decision making process… Look at safety features, trunions, fences, miter gauges etc…

The advice on blades is spot on. I do most of my crosscuts on my sliding miter saw, but I do have 3 basic blades I switch around. A 24T ripping blade, a 40T general purpose, and an 80 crosscutting blade. All are thin kerf Freud Diablo models. And I honestly leave the 40T blade in the saw most of the time.

-- Please like and subscribe to my YouTube Channel

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