Just bought 2 hand planes

  • Advertise with us

« back to Power Tools, Hardware and Accessories forum

Forum topic by Arlin Eastman posted 05-30-2011 12:03 AM 2594 views 0 times favorited 22 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View Arlin Eastman's profile

Arlin Eastman

4230 posts in 2586 days

05-30-2011 12:03 AM

A friend of mine was selling some planes and he gave me first choice
1. Stanley #7 type 5 for $100
2. Bailey #7 type 11 for $100
plus $30 for shipping.
Since I do not know about planes are these worth the price. Both he said have no apologies (Whatever that means)

Thank You for the help

-- It is always the right time, to do the right thing.

22 replies so far

View ptweedy's profile


75 posts in 3418 days

#1 posted 05-30-2011 12:17 AM

what are you going to do with them. If collecting might be resonable, if they are to be users they are pretty rich compared to what is available on ebay. Look at woodworking planes you will find at least 100 planes and more tommarow. 25 to 30 dollars would seem about right. phil

View a1Jim's profile


117115 posts in 3602 days

#2 posted 05-30-2011 12:25 AM

Unless they are new old stock in the box, $100 ea. is about $60ea to much at least in my area.

-- wood crafting & woodworking classes

View Arlin Eastman's profile

Arlin Eastman

4230 posts in 2586 days

#3 posted 05-30-2011 12:36 AM

I have only seen a picture and they almost look brand new the wood on both have a few nicks and dings, but no scratches or brakes and no boxes to go with them.

-- It is always the right time, to do the right thing.

View blackcherry's profile


3338 posts in 3848 days

#4 posted 05-30-2011 02:22 AM

Arlin these seem a little pricey, but with out see the condition it may be hard to say. If you could post some pic’s we could say if there worth it or not. Just my thoughts good luck…BC

View SSMDad's profile


395 posts in 2622 days

#5 posted 05-30-2011 02:37 AM

Arlin. Gotta agree with others as I’ve been on an ebay plane buying quest the last few weeks. New old stock untouched in the box, well maybe, but nothing else would be worth it imo.

Btw no apologies usually means there’s nothing on these to apologise for. Since you said there were some songs then they do indeed have apologies.

Look around online would be my suggestion an get what you actually need an not just for bunch that seem to be a food deal.

Good luck

-- Chris ~~Who controls the past controls the future. Who controls the present controls the past."

View knotscott's profile


8056 posts in 3400 days

#6 posted 05-30-2011 03:29 AM

No apologies means no major condition issues….no broken handles, no cracks, no drill holes, etc. $100 for a #7 jointer plane is not unusual, especially for the desirable older ones. Value depends in part on condition, and it’s hard to know their exact condition without seeing them. Both are fairly old, and are well made planes. What are you going to do with two #7’s?

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View Greg In Maryland's profile

Greg In Maryland

553 posts in 3023 days

#7 posted 05-30-2011 04:00 AM

Hi Arlin,

I think that $100 would be some what reasonable for a very good, out of the box ready to go number seven. If they need to be restored then that is a bit pricy. What I have done with my old Stanleys is replace the cap iron and blade from Ron Hock. That is going to run you another $70 plus shipping ($30 for cap iron and $40 for the blade). My experience is that Stanley blades are just to thin and not worth the aggravation. Of course, there are 100’s of opinions to the contrary about this, so you may not need to go to this expense.

As Knotscott pointed out, what are you going to do with two number sevens? I think if you purchased one and a replacement cap iron/blade you would come out further ahead than if you bought both.

In general though, I think you need to ask what are you going to do with a number seven to begin with? A number seven is primarily used to flatten stock. Particularly stock that is too big to go through your planer/jointer. Since you will be making boxes and will have the tools lowered shortly I am sure, your needs for flattening lots of stock isn’t going to be that great.

In interests of fully disclosure, a number seven is also good at preparing joints between two boards prior to glue up. Again, if you were making dining room tables to seat a dozen people, that might make sense. For a box maker, maybe not so much.

Next week you should receive that Garret Hack book I sent you. It contains a wealth of information on handplanes (after all, it is called “The Handplane Book”). I would suggest that you read it from cover to cover to get an idea on the specialization and use of handlplanes. If you can’t wait, this website has a lot of info on Stanley Handplanes.

Have a nice weekend and enjoy the family!

View WayneC's profile


13754 posts in 4122 days

#8 posted 05-30-2011 05:43 AM

If your looking for planes, I would get one each of the following sizes #4, 4 1/2, or 5 1/2 to use as a smoother. A #5 Jack plane and a #7 or #8 Jointer. $100 is fair for the #7s if they are tuned and in good condition. Of the two jointers, I would recommend the type 11. They have a frog adjustment screw that I find useful. In addition you need a good block plane. I would recommend a #18, 60 1/2 or 65 low angle block plane. A 9 1/2 standard angle block plane would be ok as well. I prefer block planes with adjustable mouths. Other planes can be added over time to support specalized needs e.g. Shoulder Plane, Router, Rabbit plane, etc.

As others have said, if you find one that needs to be cleaned up and tuned they can be found for less. It just takes time and a little effort. The most important thing to ensure they are in good condition. The web link that Greg provided gives excellent info on the plane’s and it describes common dammage. Be sure to check your planes at least 3 times before you buy the to ensure they are complete and undamaged.

Another thing that you need to get started with planes is the ability to sharpen your plane irons. Dull plane blades suck and will turn you off to their use. Scary sharp is a good technique where you used Sandpaper on a flat surface such as a table saw wing, float glass, or granite. It is probably the cheapest way to get started. You can google “scary sharp” to find more info.

Finally, you need a stable surface with some simple fixtures to plane the boards on. You will need some dogs or plaining stops, shooting boards or other fixtures to to keep the wood stable during plaining. Fortunately these are cheap and easy to build (assuming you have some form of accessable bench).

In response to Greg on the #7, I’m would not be against using the #7 for box making. There would still be situations where I would be useful. But it would not be where I started from.

From a box making perspective, I think I would start with a good block plane ( Stanley 60 1/5 or 65) and a small grooving plane (Record 43 or 46 would be ideal) with a shooting board and a board with a plaining stop. Then follow it up with a #4 or a #5 tuned as a smoother.

Arlan, as a point of reference, I picked up a #5 Stanely for $2 at a steet fair today. It has a broken tote and some light rust. Both are easy issues to resolve in order to get it to be a good working plane. Educate your self on the different planes using the book and web site Greg recommends. Take a look at what planes are selling for on Ebay (be sure to check prices sold vs asking price) and try to get out to some flea markets or antique sales to see what you can find.

Also there is a lot of info on youtube. For example, check out the Lie-Nielson videos. Lots of info about tools and techniques.

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

View Arlin Eastman's profile

Arlin Eastman

4230 posts in 2586 days

#9 posted 05-30-2011 06:33 AM

I would like to thank everyone on their insight. when John called me and told me about them he said that the (japanning is 98%) no rust no patina no parts were missing and everything is original and both were sharpened. He also talked about the (Frogs) are in great shape and there is more than a life time of blade left. I do not know what Frogs or Japanning is, however, he seemed to think it is imprortant OH also he said that the (Sole) is within .002 if flat.
What do you think about what he said. He did have pictures he sent me about 8 of each one. Everything looks brand new with just alittle use on the handles.
PS I am saving the #7 Type 5 for looking at and the other will be used by other Vets that come to my shop to learn how to do woodworking.

-- It is always the right time, to do the right thing.

View WayneC's profile


13754 posts in 4122 days

#10 posted 05-30-2011 07:13 AM

Japanning is the black paint on the body of the plane. Patina is color from use and age of the plane and is desireable to collectors and some people. Others, like a plane that looks shiny and new. Lack of patina reduces collector value.

Frogs are the holders for the blade of the plane. They are very important for how well the plane perform. Go to the page below and scroll down to the #3 plane. There is a drawing that shows all of the parts of a bench plane.

.002 is very flat. Smaller than the thickness of a shaving you would take with a Jointer plane.

$100 is a reasonable selling price for the plane on ebay in the condition described. You can find them for quite a bit cheaper if you look around for a while, but then you have to worry about condition and restoring the plane to put it in usable condition.

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

View David Kirtley's profile

David Kirtley

1286 posts in 3023 days

#11 posted 05-30-2011 07:21 AM

Japanning is the black asphalt based paint that they were originally painted with.

The frog is the angled part of the plane that holds the blade(iron) of the plane. On a bench plane, the frog moves forward and backward to control the amount of space between the front of the blade and the mouth. Being able to close the mouth is part of how to make smooth cuts. The goal is to make it where the wood cannot splinter up (tear out) when being cut. If you are hogging out large chunks of wood, you open it up wide.

$100 for a #7 in good shape is not a bad price nor an exceptional bargain. If you are not really familiar with planes, getting one pre-tuned so you know how it should work it is a good bargain.

The only real differences between the types is the appearance of different features (I am not going to go through the whole litany. Look up Patrick Leach’s Blood and Gore) The important ones are :

Lateral adjuster for the blade.
Adjustment screw for moving the frog forward and backward.
Switch from low knob on the front to a taller knob.

Beyond that it is esoteric stuff for collectors. Great stuff if you are a property master for a movie wanting to have the right age tools on the set. As for working with them, it makes no difference whatsoever. It is stuff like a sweetheart logo or v shaped logo and such.

I really don’t know the size of the memory boxes you are making. For small stuff, a #7 is a pretty useless plane unless you are just building upper body strength and then I would go for the much more manly #8. Where a big jointer really comes into play is to prepare big panels for gluing or getting a really flat reference surface.

Making smaller stuff (I am talking about under say 18 inch) You are going to get a lot of bang for your buck by making a shooting board and the length of the plane won’t make really any difference at all.

-- Woodworking shouldn't cost a fortune:

View SSMDad's profile


395 posts in 2622 days

#12 posted 05-31-2011 03:33 AM

Just a chime-in here to say that I agree with Wayne that the ability to sharpen your irons is crucial (I started with rather blunt irons and was really irked by them) and scary-sharp is a cheap way to get started. One thing I’ll say (and I’ve used the ss method) is that it still doesn’t put as good an edge on the irons or chisels or anything as well as a good Japanese (ceramic or real) waterstone. I’ve also used oil stones and its what my dad always used for his pocket knives when I was growing up but I still prefer Japanese stones.

My advice would be to get your plane and then pickup a used iron from ebay or some place to use as a trainer so if you ruin it it won’t really matter. Then either go the scary-sharp method or waterstone. (though my preference would be waterstone that way you can learn to master it). Just make sure you don’t use a production iron or if you do that you can get or already have a replacement for the plane.

Good luck.

-- Chris ~~Who controls the past controls the future. Who controls the present controls the past."

View Arlin Eastman's profile

Arlin Eastman

4230 posts in 2586 days

#13 posted 06-01-2011 07:26 PM

Thank you for the advise, working in the machineshop I always used stones for sharpening everything, I also have a friend that just sent me some stones from 800 to 6000 that should work very well.

-- It is always the right time, to do the right thing.

View Bertha's profile


13529 posts in 2718 days

#14 posted 06-01-2011 07:30 PM

The type 11 is too expensive but the Type 5 would be attractive to me. The #7 is my favorite bench plane and I’ve never really met one I hated. I think that once you touch the Type 5, you’ll probably re-list the Type 11 ;)

-- My dad and I built a 65 chev pick up.I killed trannys in that thing for some reason-Hog

View WayneC's profile


13754 posts in 4122 days

#15 posted 06-01-2011 07:32 PM

What I like about the type 11 or later is the frog adjustment screw. I tend to stay from earlier planes from a useage perspective.

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

showing 1 through 15 of 22 replies

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics