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Jet JJP-12 - Being Delivered Today - Question on Plug/Outlet

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Forum topic by BoilerUp21 posted 04-24-2018 12:26 PM 349 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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BoilerUp21

95 posts in 850 days


04-24-2018 12:26 PM

Reading the Jet JJP-12 instruction manual online this morning, it says “use a plug and outlet rated at least 30 amps”.

http://content.jettools.com/assets/manuals/708475_man_EN.pdf

I have a 30 amp circuit/breaker that I use for my table saw. My plan was to wire in a 20amp outlet for the JJP-12 to the same circuit as the existing 20 amp l6-20 outlet that is used for the table saw (machines will never be used at the same time, assuming they can be on same circuit since only one machine will be needing power at a time). See picture for reference.

Not sure why an outlet rated for 30 amps would be required…Can someone give me an idea if this is a typo or if there would be any need for an outlet/plug rated for more than 20 amps for the JJP-12?


9 replies so far

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Fresch

277 posts in 2004 days


#1 posted 04-24-2018 12:51 PM

Draws 12.5 amps, they have #14, I would think 20a on #12 would do the trick.
Could be a typo., contact them.

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GrantA

268 posts in 1490 days


#2 posted 04-24-2018 01:04 PM

I wonder if that’s a typo in the manual. 12.5a motor would be fine on a 20a circuit. It seems extra silly that they put a 14ga cord on a machine they’d spec a 30a outlet for. 12ga for 20a and 10ga for 30a is typical.
As for your wall box, are you planning to cap the 120 outlet and just have the two 240s? If the 120 is the end of a circuit just put wire nuts on the wires but if it feeds another you’ll need to make a junction. I’m not sure you’ll fit it all in there. Gonna be tight!

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BoilerUp21

95 posts in 850 days


#3 posted 04-24-2018 01:10 PM



I wonder if that s a typo in the manual. 12.5a motor would be fine on a 20a circuit. It seems extra silly that they put a 14ga cord on a machine they d spec a 30a outlet for. 12ga for 20a and 10ga for 30a is typical.
As for your wall box, are you planning to cap the 120 outlet and just have the two 240s? If the 120 is the end of a circuit just put wire nuts on the wires but if it feeds another you ll need to make a junction. I m not sure you ll fit it all in there. Gonna be tight!

- GrantA

There is no 120 going to this box, just the existing 240. Would be installing a 20amp dual receptacle 240v outlet next to the existing L6-20 outlet. Box is pretty deep and only the one wire in there so I should be able to squeeze it in.

Thanks

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GrantA

268 posts in 1490 days


#4 posted 04-24-2018 01:22 PM

My bad the duplex receptacle threw me off, I’m not used to seeing 240v as a duplex. So you’re not going to use a twist lock on the jointer, should work fine but it’s weird that Jet states 30a in the manual

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BoilerUp21

95 posts in 850 days


#5 posted 04-24-2018 01:31 PM

Just got off the phone with Jet technical support. He was just as confused and went back and checked previous manuals. It appears that the non-helical head version (one I purchased) originally spec’d out 20amp. When they added the helical head version and used one manual for both machines they specified 30amp to cover the helical head version. He said I should be good to go with the 20amp plug and receptacle.

I do not know much about electricity, but both models show 12.5amp running, I would assume just shy of 20amp on startup.

Now the issue I run into is if I swap for a shelix head in the future, why would this need to go on a 30amp receptacle if both models come standard with 14AWG power cords?

Why would a helical head draw more amps if all else is identical?

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Firewood

390 posts in 1717 days


#6 posted 04-24-2018 01:39 PM

Note – I’m not an electrician!

I believe per code, a 30a breaker can only feed a single outlet. A 20A breaker can feed multiple outlets. Since they are in the same box, you can probably get away with it. Just don’t leave it that way for any inspections. And follow your own rule about running only one machine at a time.

The 30a breaker requirement is most likely to overcome in-rush current at startup. If the motor in the jointer has thermal protection, that is how they get away with the 14ga wire on the plug I’m guessing since normal draw is under 15a.

-- Mike - Waukesha, WI

View rwe2156's profile

rwe2156

3034 posts in 1564 days


#7 posted 04-24-2018 01:56 PM

Yeah, something isn’t right.

A 240motor rated at 12.5A = 4HP

A 3HP motor will typically draw 9-10A.

#12 wire on a 20A circuit should do it.

Don’t know what you’ve got there, but FYI a 30A breaker is rated for #10 wire. Will not protect #12 wire.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

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Lazyman

2286 posts in 1470 days


#8 posted 04-24-2018 02:06 PM

I would just have a single receptacle and just use the same plug on the jointer as you have on your table saw. Getting in the habit of unplugging one to plug in the other is a good one, especially since you should be unplugging your table saw to make blade changes, etc. anyway

-- Nathan, TX -- Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.

View Fresch's profile

Fresch

277 posts in 2004 days


#9 posted 04-24-2018 03:45 PM

If you go to the wiring diagram, your link, see the box labeled ol? That is rated for the motor amps, changing the head will have no impact as the motor can only put out/ draw what it is capable to; with the (ol) overload protecting the motor windings and will open the control circuit shutting the motor off.

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