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| Forum topic by Jamie | posted 618 days ago | 323 views | 0 times favorited | 12 replies | ![]() |
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618 days ago |
Topic tags/keywords: resource tip question trick oak My father-in-law dropped off a load of oak that he was able to get for free from a local restaurant. They were remodeling and had removed all of the oak trim. There are various widths and lengths, from about 4” to 12” in width and anywhere from 3’ to 8’ in length. All of the pieces are approximately 15/16” or greater in thickness. None of the trim had been shaped, so most all of it is fairly square (about 5 of the pieces have rabbits along one edge). Most all of the planks had standard nails, which were easily removed. The problem I have, is that there are about 8 really good planks that have 18 guage 2” finishing nails in them. The heads have been filled in also. If I try to hit the nails from the backside with a hammer, they instantly bend. I don’t want to dig for them and ruin the wood. What is the best way to get these suckers out? -- Jamie, Kentucky |
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618 days ago |
It is in general better to push the nail through if feasible. You can sometimes take a nail set and hit them from the front side enough to get them to protrude out the back. Then take nail pullers and have out them. -- -John "Do I have to keep typing a smiley? Just assume it's a joke." www.flickr.com/photos/gizmodyne |
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618 days ago |
pull them out from the backside |
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618 days ago |
Pulling them from the back is the way to go if they will pull out. I have had far more success with finishing nails than I have brads. A good portion of the time that I have tried to remove brads they simply break off about 1/16” proud of the surface and then I either end up digging (and digging some more) or getting frustrated with the entire thing and cutting off the material with the offending nails in it. I can always find a use for offcuts. -- With God's help all things are possible- even woodworking. Woodworking is not just a hobby, it is an (expletive deleted) expensive hobby. |
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618 days ago |
Pull them straight through Use pliers and a wood block to keep from marking up the wood. -- What happens in the workshop stays in the workshop. No wait that doesn't sound right. Karson Southern Delaware karson_morrison@bigfoot.com † |
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618 days ago |
You might try drilling a 1/16 bit next to the brad and then pull it out. Some may come out, but you will most likely break most of the nails off before pulling them out. They very thin and weak. John -- Oldworld, Fair Oaks, Ca |
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618 days ago |
I’ve also found that with these easily bent nails, to cut them off leaving maybe 1/8” sticking out. Now when you tap it with a hammer, it’s less likely to bend and the nail head will pop out the other side. Take your time whatever you do. Carbide saw blades pretty much eat these things up, but planer blades don’t. Pulling the nail thru like the other guys have suggested works great as well and won’t leave your top surface marred as much. -- Bob Vila would be so proud of you! |
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617 days ago |
Thanks guys.. I really appreciate all the input. I’ll try some of your suggestions today to see what I can come up with. I may be able to just pull them on through, but am kinda worried that it may just break off. I’ll try that though.. Thanks again! -- Jamie, Kentucky |
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617 days ago |
If the heads of the nails are out far enough, you can try heating the nails with a torch. As they heat up they will expand, enlarging the hole a bit. When they cool, the nail shrinks back but the hole doesn’t. It works for screws, and it might work here. -- Sam |
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617 days ago |
I don’t know what some of the terminology you are using means, but I’m assuming that these nails are very thin and protrude significatly through the back (hence the bending). I had some luck nailing them out from the back by doing the following. I got a small pair of vise grips and really clamped them on the protruding piece of the nail (leaving about a 2 mm gap between where I clamped and the board). Then I could tap on the vice grips instead of the point of the nail. this would let me be sure the nail would be forced stright out. Just an idea. |
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617 days ago |
Ditto on the vise grips. Best method I have found and I use it frequently. Go -- Go http://ncwoodworker.net/pp/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=730 |
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617 days ago |
What a lucky deal! You’ll be glad you salvaged it! And I agree with Gofor (and the others) – vise grips is the way to go. We tore down an old building up the street, brought it home and began the chore of removing all the nails, screws, etc. Apparently the previous owner worked at the local lumber yard and over the years, if there was a “stray piece” of wood, he would bring it home and tack it onto his barn. The result: a very eclectic, multi-thickness, variety-of-wood barn, put together with whatever nails and screws he had lying around. He used sinkers ALL over it, and sometimes on very thin wood. Too comical. But our efforts paid off, as we now we have a huge pile of great lumber to use on …???? We tried a number of things as mentioned by the others in here (tho, not the torch!), but the best idea we found is to use a good pair of vise grips to pull and twist them from the back / worse side. And like Karson suggested, be sure to use the wood block on either side of the nail if you need to pound it out from the front. Good luck! -- Currently-from-Grand-Rapids-but-looking-to-move-to-beautiful-Traverse-City ... :) |
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617 days ago |
Pull them through the backside using a nail nippers. You can buy a nail nipper at nearly any hardware store (not a toe nail nipper). Sometimes they are called hoof nippers or racetrack nippers. To prevent maring as you apply leverage to the nipper use a piece of 1/4” scrap hardboard under the nipper. They’ll come out fairly easily. It takes a little practice so you don’t clip them off, but one you get it you’ll move right along.
-- Rich, Madison WI |
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