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veneer on solid wood

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Forum topic by Woodshopfreak posted 206 days ago 307 views 0 times favorited 17 replies Add to Favorites
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Woodshopfreak

331 posts in 229 days


206 days ago

Topic tags/keywords: question veneering

this is probbobly a stupid question but can you put veneer on top of poplar? I am asumeing that you can’t bacause the substreight would move cracking the veneer. Please tell ne the answer because I want to make my jewlery box top this weekend.

-- Tyler, Illinois

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GaryK

8489 posts in 475 days


206 days ago

You could if the grains of both pieces were aligned. I would think they would both expand.

-- Gary, East TX -- The longest journey begins with a single step.

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bryano

541 posts in 420 days


206 days ago

I dont think this is a stupid question at all. Veneer has been used since the pharos and i believe that all that they had was hard wood sobstreight. Also I do alot of reclaiming of old furnature that has veneer on hard wood. Im not sure but I believe with a hardwood substreight you would have to attach the veneer with the grain and not against the grain.(if im explaining myself properly)

-- bryano

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Ryan Shervill

199 posts in 299 days


206 days ago

Sure you can, they’ve been doing it since veneer was invented (No plywood back then :) )

Actually, here’s a tip for everyone. If you are building a piece out of…say…Walnut for example. Build the project out of straight grained plain old walnut, but veneer crotch or burl on to the faces, and do the tiniest micro-bevel at the venner seem. It looks fantastic, and you turn 3.00/BF lumber into something special.

Have fun!

Ryan

-- If you can't set a good example, at least serve as a horrible warning... www.rarewoodcreations.com

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bryano

541 posts in 420 days


206 days ago

Thanks for the tip Ryan. You gave me a good idea for some of that veneer that I found a few months back.

-- bryano

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DAN

3223 posts in 469 days


206 days ago

many times I bookmatch veneer slice a special piece of quartersawn white oak and then use it to veneer over quartersawn white oak that has little or no figure.

veneer I make this way is over 1/8 and upto 1/2 of an inch thick, so it really isn’t veneer so-to-speak. it just allows me to balance grain patterns better and make a more visually appealling project.

-- ..... art for lifes sake ... danwalters@lumberjocks.com

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Karson

12913 posts in 887 days


205 days ago

Yes make the grain go the same way.

-- Karson Southern Delaware karson_morrison@bigfoot.com

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CoreyLiepelt

16 posts in 327 days


193 days ago

Here’s a question for those of you who have done this before. Do you still have to follow the practice of veneering both sides the way you do with a manufactured (ply or MDF) substrate to avoid warping the panel?

-- Dublin, OH

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DAN

3223 posts in 469 days


193 days ago

Corey – I never worried about it. I have dresser with bookmatched walnut veneer on the face of the walnut drawers and it has held fine with no distortion for 20 years

-- ..... art for lifes sake ... danwalters@lumberjocks.com

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Douglas Bordner

2557 posts in 550 days


192 days ago

Haven’t had any trouble with a single face of QS white oak over less figured white oak, but this is with fat (.125 -.1875˝) shop made “veneer”.

-- "Bordnerizing" perfectly good lumber for over a decade.

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Thos. Angle

3236 posts in 449 days


192 days ago

Not much I can add. Listen to these guys.

-- Thos. Angle, Owyhee Design, Oregon

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rikkor

7687 posts in 361 days


192 days ago

David Marks always does both sides.

-- Maplewood, MN

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MSRiverdog

32 posts in 223 days


192 days ago

I’ve looked at quite a few antiques and one side has worked fine over solid wood, but safe better than sorry makes sense.

-- http://www.MSRDboard.com , http://www.riverviewwoodworking.com

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Earle Wright

122 posts in 207 days


192 days ago

If you don’t veneer the back side, at least be sure to finish it. I have some otherwise nice creations of my father’s that warped because the back side wasn’t finished.

I make it a practice to always veneer both sides.

-- Earle Wright, Lenoir City, Tennessee

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BroDave

76 posts in 301 days


192 days ago

The veneer you put on the back side does not have to be anything special, unless it will show.

-- .

View John Ormsby's profile

John Ormsby

163 posts in 224 days


192 days ago

Veneering both sides is mandatory if one wants to have a piece endure for a long time. Try veneering a board on one side and let it sit for a month.

-- Oldworld, Fair Oaks, Ca

View bfd's profile

bfd

256 posts in 294 days


191 days ago

just my 2 cents but you should always veneer both sides of a substrate. You need something on the back side to help equalize and balance what you do on the front otherwise you run the risk of warping, cupping etc. It is why plywood is always in odd layers. Keep in mind that manufactured board (mdf, plywood, and particle board) are all more stable then solid wood to begin with and you would do it there so I would think the same follows suit when solid wood is your substrate. I happen to work for a higher end commercial wood furniture company for my day job and we work exclusively with veneers.we always balance the back with either veneer or gator ply (when it is not visible).

-- Brian, Folsom, CA http://www.brianfullerdesigns.com

View Tom Adamski's profile

Tom Adamski

220 posts in 257 days


191 days ago

If you want to learn about veneering boxes, check out Andrew Crawford. This guy is the best at veneering boxes.

Tom

-- Anybody can become a woodworker, but only a Craftsman can hide his mistakes.

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