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veneer on solid wood

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Forum topic by Woodshopfreak posted 616 days ago 364 views 0 times favorited 17 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Woodshopfreak

390 posts in 639 days


616 days ago

Topic tags/keywords: question veneering

this is probbobly a stupid question but can you put veneer on top of poplar? I am asumeing that you can’t bacause the substreight would move cracking the veneer. Please tell ne the answer because I want to make my jewlery box top this weekend.

-- Tyler, Illinois

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GaryK

9536 posts in 885 days


616 days ago

You could if the grains of both pieces were aligned. I would think they would both expand.

-- Gary, East TX -- The longest journey begins with a single step.

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bryano

546 posts in 830 days


616 days ago

I dont think this is a stupid question at all. Veneer has been used since the pharos and i believe that all that they had was hard wood sobstreight. Also I do alot of reclaiming of old furnature that has veneer on hard wood. Im not sure but I believe with a hardwood substreight you would have to attach the veneer with the grain and not against the grain.(if im explaining myself properly)

-- bryano

View Ryan Shervill's profile

Ryan Shervill

238 posts in 710 days


616 days ago

Sure you can, they’ve been doing it since veneer was invented (No plywood back then :) )

Actually, here’s a tip for everyone. If you are building a piece out of…say…Walnut for example. Build the project out of straight grained plain old walnut, but veneer crotch or burl on to the faces, and do the tiniest micro-bevel at the venner seem. It looks fantastic, and you turn 3.00/BF lumber into something special.

Have fun!

Ryan

-- If you can't set a good example, at least serve as a horrible warning... www.rarewoodcreations.com

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bryano

546 posts in 830 days


616 days ago

Thanks for the tip Ryan. You gave me a good idea for some of that veneer that I found a few months back.

-- bryano

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DAN

6454 posts in 880 days


616 days ago

many times I bookmatch veneer slice a special piece of quartersawn white oak and then use it to veneer over quartersawn white oak that has little or no figure.

veneer I make this way is over 1/8 and upto 1/2 of an inch thick, so it really isn’t veneer so-to-speak. it just allows me to balance grain patterns better and make a more visually appealling project.

-- work from your heart and your spirit will live forever

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Karson

25803 posts in 1298 days


616 days ago

Yes make the grain go the same way.

-- What happens in the workshop stays in the workshop. No wait that doesn't sound right. Karson Southern Delaware karson_morrison@bigfoot.com †

View CoreyLiepelt's profile

CoreyLiepelt

20 posts in 738 days


603 days ago

Here’s a question for those of you who have done this before. Do you still have to follow the practice of veneering both sides the way you do with a manufactured (ply or MDF) substrate to avoid warping the panel?

-- Dublin, OH

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DAN

6454 posts in 880 days


603 days ago

Corey – I never worried about it. I have dresser with bookmatched walnut veneer on the face of the walnut drawers and it has held fine with no distortion for 20 years

-- work from your heart and your spirit will live forever

View Douglas Bordner's profile

Douglas Bordner

3427 posts in 961 days


603 days ago

Haven’t had any trouble with a single face of QS white oak over less figured white oak, but this is with fat (.125 -.1875˝) shop made “veneer”.

-- "Bordnerizing" perfectly good lumber for over a decade.

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Thos. Angle

4013 posts in 859 days


603 days ago

Not much I can add. Listen to these guys.

-- Thos. Angle

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rikkor

11335 posts in 772 days


603 days ago

David Marks always does both sides.

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MSRiverdog

39 posts in 633 days


603 days ago

I’ve looked at quite a few antiques and one side has worked fine over solid wood, but safe better than sorry makes sense.

-- http://www.riverviewwoodworking.com

View Earle Wright's profile

Earle Wright

123 posts in 617 days


602 days ago

If you don’t veneer the back side, at least be sure to finish it. I have some otherwise nice creations of my father’s that warped because the back side wasn’t finished.

I make it a practice to always veneer both sides.

-- Earle Wright, Lenoir City, Tennessee

View BroDave's profile

BroDave

86 posts in 711 days


602 days ago

The veneer you put on the back side does not have to be anything special, unless it will show.

-- .

View John Ormsby's profile

John Ormsby

503 posts in 634 days


602 days ago

Veneering both sides is mandatory if one wants to have a piece endure for a long time. Try veneering a board on one side and let it sit for a month.

-- Oldworld, Fair Oaks, Ca

View bfd's profile

bfd

419 posts in 704 days


601 days ago

just my 2 cents but you should always veneer both sides of a substrate. You need something on the back side to help equalize and balance what you do on the front otherwise you run the risk of warping, cupping etc. It is why plywood is always in odd layers. Keep in mind that manufactured board (mdf, plywood, and particle board) are all more stable then solid wood to begin with and you would do it there so I would think the same follows suit when solid wood is your substrate. I happen to work for a higher end commercial wood furniture company for my day job and we work exclusively with veneers.we always balance the back with either veneer or gator ply (when it is not visible).

-- Brian, Folsom, CA http://www.brianfullerdesigns.com

View Tom Adamski's profile

Tom Adamski

309 posts in 668 days


601 days ago

If you want to learn about veneering boxes, check out Andrew Crawford. This guy is the best at veneering boxes.

Tom

-- Anybody can become a woodworker, but only a Craftsman can hide his mistakes.

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