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| Forum topic by doninvegas | posted 738 days ago | 1489 views | 0 times favorited | 20 replies | ![]() |
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738 days ago |
I’m going to have a booth at a classic car show in June and the promoters asked me to make some custom license plates. I have made the plates out of Western Red Cedar and my wife is carving the different car logos on them. She will then paint them. My problem is that some of the logos, such as the Ford logo, has some white in it. I plan to finish them with Spar Varnish but being oil based it will yellow the white paint. Is there anything I can use to seal in the colors with so when the varnish is applied it won’t yellow the colors? I could also use water based poly but I don’t know if that will be tough enough. -- "Courage is being scared to death -- but saddling up anyway." |
20 replies so far
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#1 posted 738 days ago |
General finishes has one called exterior 450 , i have used it out side, been out there for about 2 years or so, looks like new. might want to consider it , just my .02 |
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#2 posted 738 days ago |
It is not that the spar varnish will yellow the white paint. The Spar varnish itself has a yellow tint. Therefore you cannot seal the white paint to prevent it from yellowing when you apply the finish. The varnish itself will continue to yellow. I believe shellac and lacquer (from personal experience) have the same problem. It is my understanding that the lack of yellowing is one of the major advantages of water based finishes. You should probably wait for a few more comments though, as I have never used a water based finish. -- Jack T, John 3:16 "For God so loved the world that he gave his only Son, so that everyone who believes in him might not perish but might have eternal life." |
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#3 posted 737 days ago |
Are you saying that you will be using an latex paint then spar varnish on top?’ Spar Varnish comes out of the can amber color, some brands are even darker. So no matter what spar varnish you use it will yellow the paint. The reason why spar varnish is amber or will yellow more because it contains a high percentage of oil. It can be tung oil and linseed oil cooked in phenolic resin. There is no need to use spar varnish on top exterior paint. A good quality paint will be enough for your particular product. The current paint market best durability paint is Benjamin Moore Aura. Which cost $50-60 a gallon. -- shdesign3.com |
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#4 posted 737 days ago |
My wife is using oil based paint. We are not painting the whole plate just the logo. I know that all, or most, oil based varnishes have an amber tint. Hens, my question. Is there a way to lock in the color? I am very willing to use a clear water based top coat, however, I worry about durability. Here in Vegas I’m not so worried about water because we rarely get any rain. But these plates will be on the front of a car. They will get sandblasted with dust, dirt and anything else that kicks up. If the GF 450 doesn’t yellow then that will be the way to go. I just will have to order it on line because I can’t buy GF products here. -- "Courage is being scared to death -- but saddling up anyway." |
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#5 posted 737 days ago |
Oil based is a poor choice for hot weather. In Las Vegas, where you have 85-90 degree temperature water base poly products will not last. Maybe here in California. Actually nothing last outdoors. Look there is no need to top coat latex with any finish. -- shdesign3.com |
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#6 posted 737 days ago |
The only reason I want to top coat these plates is because only the the classic car logo will be painted. The rest of the plate will be bare wood. -- "Courage is being scared to death -- but saddling up anyway." |
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#7 posted 737 days ago |
Then your only option is water based poly like charlie refer to. To solve your yellowing problem use latex to paint the logo. -- shdesign3.com |
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#8 posted 737 days ago |
How about finishing the bare wood first, then painting after? Since you’re using an oil-based paint you shouldn’t have any adhesion problems. That way you can take advantage of the “warming” effect spar varnish can have on bare wood… whereas waterbased poly’s largely lose that bonus. |
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#9 posted 737 days ago |
I don’t recommend doing that. If you paint oil based paint on top of spar varnish it will crack. Unless you tape off the logo part. -- shdesign3.com |
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#10 posted 736 days ago |
what about automotive clear laquer? Steve -- Steve in KY. 44 years so far with my lovely bride. Think I'll keep her. |
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#11 posted 736 days ago |
All professional basketball courts are finished with water based poly. It is tough enough for any application. -- Sam Hamory - The project is never finished until its "finished"! |
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#12 posted 736 days ago |
For exterior pupose, its not durability, its how long will it last in 90 degree sun. -- shdesign3.com |
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#13 posted 726 days ago |
Not sure if I understand your problem, but I can give a couple outdoor sign methods. Method #1 is if you plan to seal the wood; Method #2 is if you are leaving the wood natural; Steve. |
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#14 posted 725 days ago |
You can paint first with acrylic paint and seal over it with epoxy resin. The resin is thinned out with iso propyl alcohol to any viscosity you want. You can thin it and spray with an HVLP gun. Surfboard epoxy is made to stay clear and not yellow, Aerialite is one brand name. This process is done all the time on surfboards with the substrate painted and epoxy laminated over. Very durable finish and will withstand weather especially heat. |
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#15 posted 724 days ago |
How much time do these classic cars actually sit outdoors? I would think that would be limited so the sum might not be that bog as factor. |
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