Table Saw Blade

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Forum topic by Kinbaum posted 05-14-2011 04:21 PM 2454 views 0 times favorited 13 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View Kinbaum's profile


14 posts in 3044 days

05-14-2011 04:21 PM

I would like to know everyone’s opinion on a saw blade for my jet table saw. I currently am using a Forrest WWII but it is in need of sharpening. It has started to burn hard wood lately. I would like to have a back up blade while this one is in to get sharpened. I would like to try something new. Any suggestions. General purpose blade would serve me best. My Forrest is a thin kerf due to my saw only being 1-3/4HP.

How are the Freud 40 tooth thin kerf Fusion Blades?


Freud 50T thin kerf combination blade?

Much Appreciated.

13 replies so far

View Jeff's profile


439 posts in 3222 days

#1 posted 05-14-2011 05:57 PM

That’s one of the best blades out there. If you like it buy another one. Be sure the blade is clean. That might be the only reason it’s burning and might not need sharpening.

View rance's profile


4258 posts in 3188 days

#2 posted 05-14-2011 06:01 PM

From what I’ve found, it is infitesimally more important to keep your blades sharp rather than fret over models/brands, etc. I’m sure your WWII is burning due to being dull, and having pitch buildup. Yes, you need a spare while your other is out being sharpened. The Fusion is good, so is the WWII. On occasion you’ll want a true Rip blade with a flat kerf too.

-- Backer boards, stop blocks, build oversized, and never buy a hand plane--

View patcollins's profile


1685 posts in 2893 days

#3 posted 05-14-2011 06:04 PM

I think your best off with a 40T general purpose blade. I have a 50T combo blade and I think the 40 general purpose blades cross cut better.

View knotscott's profile


8057 posts in 3404 days

#4 posted 05-14-2011 06:06 PM

Quick question….have you kept your WWII clean? Dirty blades burn more and cut more like a dull blade, plus they actually cause premature dulling due to more heat build up.

We all have our favorites for a variety of legitimate reasons, but what blade to get should be based primarily on your saw, your cutting needs, and your preferences….what someone else loves might not be the best choice for you. You might consider venturing into more task specific blades. More blade info

Specific to your question:
The Freud Fusion blades (and the similar Infinity Super General) are the two cleanest cutting 40T general purpose blades I know of. They have a Hi-ATB grind with a bevel of 30° which gives lower tearout at exit, so is superior in fine crosscuts and sheetgoods. Plus the dual side grind leaves a more highly polished edge than other 40T GP blades with a similar low side clearance (like the WWII, Ridge Carbide TS2000, or Tenryu Gold Medal). There’s never a free lunch, and every design parameter has pros and cons. The downside of the Hi-ATB grind is that they’re not quite as efficient at ripping as a standard ATB grind, plus are a little more prone to tip wear. The downside of the dual side grind is that they’re more prone to burning in some situations, so thicker ripping is more of a challenge with them….raising the blade slightly can help reduce that tendency. Forrest offers a new 48T WWII that offers similar performance tendencies using a slightly different configuration. If you’re looking for a blade that offers the attributes of this type of blade, they can be the best choice for you.

The 50T ATB/R combo blades tend to have more generous side clearance parameters then the premium 40T general purpose blades, and as such can be less prone to burning and less finicky about setup, but tend to leave slightly more pronounced swirl marks on the edges than the premium 40T general purpose blades than those mentioned above. However they’re clean enough to give glue ready edges, which is really as clean as they need to be so they can be a viable choice too. The Freud LU83 (thin kerf) and LU84 (full kerf) are very good examples, as are the Tenryu RS25550, Amana 610504, DeWalt DW7150PT, DW7640, and Leitz, but the Infinity Combomax (010-050 FK/010150 TK) js the best of this style blade that I’ve tried IMHO.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View JuniorJoiner's profile


487 posts in 3468 days

#5 posted 05-14-2011 06:21 PM

cmt thin kerf combination blaxe, best blade I ever had on my saw, and probably the cheapest.

-- Junior -Quality is never an accident-it is the reward for the effort involved.

View ChrisForthofer's profile


150 posts in 3095 days

#6 posted 05-14-2011 06:41 PM

I have the 40T Freud fusion and love it. Cross cuts and Rips amazingly well in solid wood and sheet goods both. However, why not just pick up another WWII so you only have one re-sharpen house to deal with. While I dont have a WWII I have read it is all the blade the Freud is and unless you are un-happy with some aspect of it I’d get a duplicate of what you have. Just my 2 cents.

You also mention your saw is “only 1.75 horsepower” I have a Rigid table saw and I think its only a 1.5hp motor and I use the full kerf blades. I have never found the saw to be underpowered for any job I have thrown at it to date. I do have a few thin kerf blades but I seem to get much better cuts with a full kerf.


-- -Director of slipshod craftsmanship and attention deficit woodworking

View TechRedneck's profile


768 posts in 2885 days

#7 posted 05-15-2011 04:14 AM

I’ll chime in for the Freud Fusion, It is an excellent blade and gives a nice smooth almost mirror finish ready for glue if you are so inclined. I clean it with CMT orange cleaner when it burns a little on cherry. I have another Freud rip blade but am too lazy to swap the blade and ZCI most of the time. The occasional burn I get is probably due to the stock fence on my Hybrid.

Chris does have a good point about another WWII. I would be curious about what others do to sharpen their Freud’s.

-- Mike.... West Virginia. "Man is a tool using animal. Without tools he is nothing, with tools he is all.". T Carlyle

View bubinga's profile


861 posts in 2696 days

#8 posted 05-15-2011 09:17 AM

Including the forest blades, I have several different brands and types of circular blades, for different machines and different applications.
When ever one needs sharpening, I send it to Forrest Manufacturing , they do a great job, on any circular blade, any brand.
Other than that I can’t tell you any more than knotscott, has already said

-- E J ------- Always Keep a Firm Grip on Your Tool

View kenstonge's profile


17 posts in 2656 days

#9 posted 05-15-2011 01:32 PM

I just swapped to the Amana 50-tooth general purpose blade. It’s half the price of the Forrest and just as good. Supposedly, it also doesn’t gum up as fast as the Forrest seems to do. If you can find one, Systimatic makes really good blades, too.

View DougC's profile


12 posts in 2662 days

#10 posted 05-18-2011 03:37 AM

I agree with EJ – Forrest does a great job sharpening not only their blades, but all circular blades. When my WWII started acting different, I sent it to Forrest and the blade was back to new in no time.

View knotscott's profile


8057 posts in 3404 days

#11 posted 05-18-2011 01:25 PM

Kinbaum – Are you still looking at blades?

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View saddletramp's profile


1180 posts in 2666 days

#12 posted 05-18-2011 02:06 PM

You are going to have a hard time finding a better blade the the Forrest WWII.

-- ♫♪♪♫♫ Saddletramp, saddletramp, I'm as free as the breeze and I ride where I please, saddletramp ♪♪♪♫♪ ...... Bob W....NW Michigan (Traverse City area)

View Kevin's profile


462 posts in 3233 days

#13 posted 05-19-2011 04:06 AM

$66 dollars right now, not too bad.

I keep my blades clean and that helps quite a bit also. Right now i’ve got a 24t, 50t and a 80t.


-- Williamsburg, KY

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