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Miter Spline Saw Blade

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Forum topic by doninvegas posted 05-12-2011 01:08 AM 4129 views 10 times favorited 13 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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doninvegas

332 posts in 1651 days


05-12-2011 01:08 AM

What’s a good table saw blade (10”) to cut good, flat, straight miter splines?

-- "Courage is being scared to death -- but saddling up anyway."


13 replies so far

View Sawkerf's profile

Sawkerf

1730 posts in 1812 days


#1 posted 05-12-2011 01:29 AM

Seems to me that most blades would work as long as the stock is dead square, the saw fence is perfectly perpendicular to the table, and the piece doesn’t “wiggle” as you make the cut.

-- Adversity doesn't build character...................it reveals it.

View live4ever's profile

live4ever

983 posts in 1754 days


#2 posted 05-12-2011 01:30 AM

I use a 24T, 1/8” kerf flat-tooth rip blade, I believe it’s a Freud LM72. Nice rip blade, about $50 on AMZ.

Sawkerf – true, but using a flat tooth grind leaves a nice flat bottom unlike ATB blades, which leave a hump in the middle of the spline.

-- Optimists are usually disappointed. Pessimists are either right or pleasantly surprised. I tend to be a disappointed pessimist.

View FaTToaD's profile

FaTToaD

390 posts in 1885 days


#3 posted 05-12-2011 03:36 PM

I use a CMT ATB+F blade that I picked up at Lowes. I haven’t put out the money for a nice blade yet, but this seems to be a good all around blade. I use it for miter splines and and miter keys all the time, gives a good flat bottom.

http://www.lowes.com/pd103024-10314-P100500?productId=3087589&Ntt=10%22+saw+blade&pl=1&currentURL=%2Fpl0__s%3FNtt%3D10%2522%2Bsaw%2Bblade

-- David

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Kent Shepherd

2698 posts in 2030 days


#4 posted 05-12-2011 05:32 PM

Freud LU84; LU83 (thin kerf); LM72; LU87; LM71 (thin kerf)

All these should leave a flat bottom. Several other styles have one flat tooth, but also a triple grind that is higher than the flat tooth, which will leave angles at the bottom. Simply looking at the blade might be hard to see this, but the specs in their book show it.

The LU84 & LU83 do have ATB, but have also have flat teeth which will clean up the bottom of the groove.

Lots of other brands will work, just know what you are looking for.

-- She thought I hung the moon--now she just thinks I did it wrong

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

5600 posts in 2120 days


#5 posted 05-12-2011 07:23 PM

Only a blade with a flat top grind with leave a flat bottom if that’s what you’re looking for….FTG blades are typically found made for ripping, and will work fine for splines. Any other combination grinds are not completely flat because the ATB or chamfered triple chip teeth protrude slightly above the flat ground teeth….they’re flatter than ATB and HiATB grinds, but still aren’t truly flat.

The LM72, LU87, and LM71 are all good examples of FTG rip blades from Freud. Infinity, CMT, Forrest, Ridge Carbide, Tenryu, and others make them too. If it’s only for splines and you don’t want to sink much into the blade, Kempston makes one that’s < $30 shipped that should work but I can’t vouch for it from experience.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

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DrDirt

2593 posts in 2486 days


#6 posted 05-12-2011 11:36 PM

There is a special Forrest Woodworker II I think they call it a #1 grind that gives the “dead flat” bottom and was identified specifically for doing splines in the mags/ and reviews.

Don’t have one but it is out there
INSERT PASTE FROM SAWMILL CREEK

Charles at Forrest told me about the #1 grind – for box joints – perfectly flat bottom, but more chance of rip out without the slice at the edge of the kerf. He also told me about the #6 grind – every 5th tooth is a raker, for flatter bottoms, but with the “ears” still at the edge of the kerf. Just what I wanted… I ordered one, and said go ahead with sharpening the original.

-- "If we did all the things we are capable of doing, we would literally astonish ourselves." Edison

View doninvegas's profile

doninvegas

332 posts in 1651 days


#7 posted 05-13-2011 12:05 AM

Knotscott, The Kempstom blade is just what I’m looking for. I will only use the blabe for miter splins so I didn’t want to spend too much. I have a contractor TS so I use thin kerf blades all the time. But I wanted a blade that cuts a true 1/8” kerf. Thanks for the tip.

-- "Courage is being scared to death -- but saddling up anyway."

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

5600 posts in 2120 days


#8 posted 05-13-2011 03:19 AM

Once you’ve given the Kempston a few spins, please post a review so the rest of us can gain some user insights about it. Thanks!

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View abie's profile

abie

612 posts in 2515 days


#9 posted 01-11-2012 08:49 PM

No need for anexpensive blade
just go to your local saw sharpening service and have them put a flat grind on any blade.
Much cheaper and less expensive. then only use that blade for splined and square cuts..

-- Bruce. a mind is like a book it is only useful when open.

View ShaneA's profile

ShaneA

5444 posts in 1342 days


#10 posted 01-11-2012 09:23 PM

I have the forrest blade that is supposed to cut flat bottoms, but I would not call them “flat”. Close, but not perfect. I got a flat grind rip blade that I will use next time I cut them. But in the past, I have used one side of a dado blade with good results, probably not the intended use, but it has worked fine.

View doninvegas's profile

doninvegas

332 posts in 1651 days


#11 posted 01-12-2012 01:14 AM

I tried the one dado blade thing but it wouldn’t raise up far enough to get through my spline jig. So got the Kempston blade and it works great. Only have used it one to cut 8 splines on a box but the cuts are flat and 1/8” wide.

-- "Courage is being scared to death -- but saddling up anyway."

View Dusty56's profile

Dusty56

11684 posts in 2432 days


#12 posted 01-12-2012 02:11 AM

I brought one of my older blades to my sharpening service and asked them if they could sharpen it as an FTG , which they said was not a problem at all because there was still plenty of carbide left on the teeth.
Full 1/8” kerf .
That was at least six years ago now , and it is still holding up fine for me : )
Cost me $5.00 at the time : )

-- I'm absolutely positive that I couldn't be more uncertain!

View abie's profile

abie

612 posts in 2515 days


#13 posted 12-07-2014 05:23 PM

I got my blade from my sharpening supplier
” Bay Area Carbide”
Bot a regular blade and asked that it be ground with a flat bottom. very inexpensive and it works fine. I only use it for dado type cuts and splines.

-- Bruce. a mind is like a book it is only useful when open.

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