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Forum topic by PlanBWoodworks posted 03-28-2018 01:28 PM 631 views 0 times favorited 15 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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PlanBWoodworks

136 posts in 535 days


03-28-2018 01:28 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question

Fellow LJs, I need your help. I am preparing to purchase a new table saw that I intend to last me for several years. I currently have a Dewalt 7480 jobsite saw that I have built into a custom table that allows for 36”+ rip capacity, has a fold down out feed table and is mostly enclosed for dust collection. I had a lot of fun building the capabilities of my saw, but I am ready to upgrade what I am frequently reminded is the “heart of any shop.”

My parameters for choosing my new saw are as follows:
Minimum of 36” rip capacity.
Must run on 120.

As this saw is intended to last for many years, I want high quality. I initially was looking at Grizzly’s Hybrid saws with 30” rip capacity with the intention of moving the fence rails over to gain the desired 36”. Then, I considered the Laguna Fusion. However, as I stated, I want this to be a lifetime purchase (or at least several years until I can build a stand alone shop with 220). So now I am looking at the Powermatic PM1000 with 52” Accufence or the SawStop 1.75 Professional with 36”. The saws are about $300 apart.

Money is not the deciding factor. I really like the Powermatic. I don’t want to move the rails over on a premium tool, so that is why I am looking at the 52” Powermatic. I understand the safety feature and the value it adds with the SawStop, and the added benefit of a smaller footprint while still getting everything that I want with the SawStop, but am still leaning towards the PM1000.

Additional info:
I am not interested in adding 220 to my current shop. I am firm on the saw running on 120.
I also want a new saw. I have watched CL closely, and have seen several options of used cabinet saws in various conditions, but few if any have been great deals that were significantly cheaper than buying new.

Am I crazy for liking Powermatic more than SawStop? Which would you choose?

Thanks for you help!

-- Why can’t I ever find my pencil???


15 replies so far

View jonah's profile

jonah

1770 posts in 3351 days


#1 posted 03-28-2018 01:34 PM

You can get the Sawstop with 52” rails, if that’s the main feature you want. Also, the better fence (the “T-Glide”) on the Sawstop is 36” rip capacity rather than 30”. So if 36” is what you need, both saws have you covered there. I don’t recommend the basic fence on the Sawstop, which is unfortunately named “premium.”

The T-Glide is a ~$150 upgrade IIRC.

View TheFridge's profile

TheFridge

9708 posts in 1539 days


#2 posted 03-28-2018 01:41 PM

If I’m gonna spend 2k$ on a saw it’s gonna have more than 1.75 HP.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

View lumberjoe's profile

lumberjoe

2899 posts in 2301 days


#3 posted 03-28-2018 02:17 PM

I know you said you don’t want to add 220v, but just be aware that these saws need dedicated 20amp 115v circuits. If you don’t have any 20amp circuits or don’t have any that are not shared with something else, you’ll need to do electrical work anyway. At that point it makes sense to just add 240v and get a 3hp saw.

-- https://pinepointwoodworks.wordpress.com/

View dbhost's profile

dbhost

5736 posts in 3285 days


#4 posted 03-28-2018 02:19 PM

Money no object, SawStop without question.

-- Please like and subscribe to my YouTube Channel https://www.youtube.com/c/daves-workshop

View Notbrick's profile

Notbrick

37 posts in 162 days


#5 posted 03-28-2018 02:27 PM

Having just adjusted an older Delta Unisaw table top, I was so glad it was not a hybrid with the trunnion mounted to the table. So my vote against any hybrid.

I had favored the Powermatic 1000 before I found a CL deal on my Unisaw. I think you will need to consider a good blade purchase and recognize the limitations that only 110v will have. But I am doing that, and still doing just fine.

View coxhaus's profile

coxhaus

93 posts in 947 days


#6 posted 03-28-2018 02:30 PM

Don’t you only get the 1.75 hp when it is running 220v? Otherwise it is a 1.5 hp on 120v.

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

5013 posts in 2546 days


#7 posted 03-28-2018 02:36 PM

Those 2 saws (and a handful of others) were compared in an article (last year, I think), I want to say it was WWJ. Anyway, the conclusion of the reviewer was they easily the best 2 saws in the group of 8 or so, and he gave the knod to the SS as the best one….but only because of the safety circuity. I believe either will serve you well, and be a joy to use. The cost of the safety on the SS is a personal one.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

View YesHaveSome's profile

YesHaveSome

97 posts in 311 days


#8 posted 03-28-2018 03:06 PM



I know you said you don t want to add 220v, but just be aware that these saws need dedicated 20amp 115v circuits. If you don t have any 20amp circuits or don t have any that are not shared with something else, you ll need to do electrical work anyway. At that point it makes sense to just add 240v and get a 3hp saw.

- lumberjoe

I ran my 1.75 SS on a shared 15 amp circuit for 6 months without issue before upgrading my shop wiring.

-- But where does the meat go?

View Marlow's profile

Marlow

175 posts in 2723 days


#9 posted 03-28-2018 03:27 PM

All other factors aside: SawStop is the only TS I would consider. I have one and it is excellent and it is as good or better in all respects to the competition, with the added benefit of the SS save your digits technology.

View GoingUp's profile

GoingUp

14 posts in 300 days


#10 posted 03-28-2018 03:54 PM

I would also give the nod to going with the Sawstop PCS. It runs on 120 with the 1.75 HP motor. Also, when you get 220, if you also wish to go to 3 HP, its an upgrade that is only a little more cost than upgrading new with the advantage of getting a 1.75 motor to use elsewhere. I’m not sure you can upgrade the powermatic P1000 to a 3 HP, but have never looked into it.

View Woodknack's profile

Woodknack

12028 posts in 2433 days


#11 posted 03-28-2018 03:56 PM



If I’m gonna spend 2k$ on a saw it’s gonna have more than 1.75 HP.

- TheFridge


+1

-- Rick M, http://thewoodknack.blogspot.com/

View becikeja's profile

becikeja

900 posts in 2866 days


#12 posted 03-28-2018 04:01 PM

A couple of years ago, I wrestled with the same choice. The Saw Stop with its safety features or the PM1000. I decided to go with the Powermatic and love the saw. It’s everything I hoped it would be.
What made me decide the Powermatic? Simple, read a few forum post where the Saw Stop safety feature either went off accidentally or not at all. I figured if I had it, I wold become careless. And if it went off accidentally I would be ticked at having to replace the blade and the brake. I know neither are very good reasons compared to safety but that is why I went the I went. I always leave the blade guard on and am paranoid around the blade. So far so good, As for the PM1000 saw, as I said, much better than my old bench top model, and have yet to have any issues with power. If I had to make the choice again I would go the same way.

-- Don't outsmart your common sense

View SouthavenToyMaker's profile

SouthavenToyMaker

140 posts in 1541 days


#13 posted 03-28-2018 04:39 PM

If I could afford to do over again…I would choose the Saw Stop, every one says it will never happen to them, I’m way to carefully yada yada but it just could just like I thought it would not happen to me and I cut the tip of my finger off. it only takes a fraction of a second. I just barely cut my finger and if you didn’t know you could tell. But that little bit cost more at the ER than I saved, and I I have constant reminder when I bump it. Do a Google Search on TS accidents, the stats are crazy and the images look painful. So if money is not a deciding factor….Saw Stop

-- Sean

View johnstoneb's profile

johnstoneb

2967 posts in 2225 days


#14 posted 03-28-2018 04:54 PM

Sawstop. There have been no accidental firings every firing was caused by something that shouldn’t have been in the blade path. They have always fired when they should. Just because it’s on the internet doesn’t make it true.

As far as quality the Sawstop is at the top for quality also. plus you get the added safety.

-- Bruce, Boise, ID

View PlanBWoodworks's profile

PlanBWoodworks

136 posts in 535 days


#15 posted 03-28-2018 11:42 PM

Thanks for all the replies. This is why I put the question out there. I am not worried about the “mis-firing” brake arguments. I have no doubt that any time the safety feature has been triggered there was a reason for it. In my opinion, if you have that lapse of concentration that leads to an “accidental discharge” like hitting a nail in a board, then that is more another argument supporting purchasing a SawStop. I also feel that anyone who believes that the SawStop safety feature leads to complacency is far braver than I am. A running table saw DEMANDS my attention and a healthy dose of self-preservation.

I actually assumed that I would receive a lot of responses that were along the lines of 6 of one… The strong response supporting SawStop is making me reconsider my front runner. Thanks again for all the feedback.

-- Why can’t I ever find my pencil???

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