LumberJocks

Trying to change the blades in a DW 735 planer!

  • Advertise with us

« back to Power Tools, Hardware and Accessories forum

Forum topic by jasoncarpentry posted 1164 days ago 1934 views 1 time favorited 25 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View jasoncarpentry's profile

jasoncarpentry

111 posts in 1241 days


1164 days ago

OK, I bought a reconditioned DeWalt 735 planer about 4 mos. ago. After lots of use & abuse, it was time to flip the blades over and use the “fresh” sides. Having previously owned the two-blade DW 733 and changed out the blades many times, I hadn’t planned on any major problems. WRONG!!

My main problem is the torque needed to remove the 24 hex-head bolts (8 bolts per blade). First came the WD-40. There was no way the furnished T-handle hex-head wrench would do it, so I switched over to a standard L-shaped wrench with a crescent wrench to give me additional leverage. Mr. Murphy has set things up so that there’s not much clearance to work with. I’m down to the last set of eight, and there’s no way this one bolt’s gonna come loose. I think my efforts may have rounded out the head, in which case I’ll have to buy a small screw extractor, drill a hole in the head, and hope & pray that I can get enough leverage to remove it and replace it. Needless to say, as I replace the bolts, I’m using much less torque.

My other concern is blade alignment. For all of its shortcomings, the DW 733 had a magnetic jig that mounted on the cutter head to give perfect alignment of the blades. Not so with the DW 735! The instructions say to just flip the blade, place the blade hold-down over it, and replace the bolts. I know enough about hole tolerances to be uncomfortable with this method.

Can anybody help me out?

-- Jim in Tennessee


25 replies so far

View Bertha's profile

Bertha

12951 posts in 1280 days


#1 posted 1164 days ago

Boy, I wish I could help you but I’m still on my OEMs. I’ll be watching this closely. I’ve resorted to a hex bit in my impact drill when I encounter stubborn screws. That’s probably bad advice in this situation, though:)

-- My dad and I built a 65 chev pick up.I killed trannys in that thing for some reason-Hog

View Tim78's profile

Tim78

14 posts in 1164 days


#2 posted 1164 days ago

I had the same problem. It turns out you may get a free set of new bolts with a new T-Wrench with better technology if you go to the local DeWalt service center. I had to drill the heads off of several of my bolts. Once the pressure was release by drilling the heads off, the bolt is easily removed.

View ShaneA's profile

ShaneA

5212 posts in 1185 days


#3 posted 1164 days ago

When you loosen the bolts and flip the blades they will “self register” into some indexing pins, which in theory should make them cut just fine, it was easier than I expected when I changed mine. I had the same concerns. Plus I was really surprised what a difference the blade change made, not only in cut quality, but noise as well. Much quiter when cutting.

View jasoncarpentry's profile

jasoncarpentry

111 posts in 1241 days


#4 posted 1164 days ago

Hey Tim78: When you say you “drilled the heads off,” do you mean you used something like a Dremel and just ground them down?

-- Jim in Tennessee

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

5355 posts in 1962 days


#5 posted 1164 days ago

Bertha’s suggestion to use an impact driver and hex bit for extracting the screws is the most effective method I’ve encountered. Worked like a charm when all else failed, and saved a trip to the service center.

+

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View Tim78's profile

Tim78

14 posts in 1164 days


#6 posted 1164 days ago

I use an impact driver with a hex bit to put the bolts on after the first flip. I stripped many of the hex head bolts when I went to completely change the blades. Then …

I first used an actual drill bit and drill. I was able to get some bolt heads off that way. I had to resort to a Dremel for the last several. It took me most of a Saturday morning in a cold Minnesota shop in February. Not a happy camper! That said, I agree with ShaneA. The new blades “self register” and the cuts are soother and quieter. Quit a big difference.

View Jim Finn's profile

Jim Finn

1628 posts in 1509 days


#7 posted 1164 days ago

I had the same experiance as ShaneA had. (Great cut and less noise.) The “T” wrench supplied worked just fine for removing my blades.

-- In God We Trust

View D_Allen's profile

D_Allen

495 posts in 1371 days


#8 posted 1164 days ago

Many times in my past I have used a swift kick to loosen stuck bolts.
On my Ridgid, the first time I switched the blades I used a small punch and a hammer and just gave each one a bit of a smack on the head. Just in case they were really stuck.
I got all mine out without a problem.
And, contrary to what some may say, I used some never-seaze on the threads when I put them back in.
I’ve checked them since and none of them have come loose.

-- Website is finally up and running....www.woodandwrite.com

View lew's profile

lew

9921 posts in 2342 days


#9 posted 1164 days ago

Sometime ago, someone posted their problems doing this same thing. I wondered if the “frozen” bolts were caused by dust/vibration over time. I went immediately to my 735 and loosened all the blade mounting bolts and re-snugged them hoping to prevent the same agony down the line when the blades needed flipped.

-- Lew- Time traveler. Purveyor of the Universe's finest custom rolling pins.

View D_Allen's profile

D_Allen

495 posts in 1371 days


#10 posted 1164 days ago

Dust cannot get to the threads, unless the bolt is already loose.
If vibration were an issue then they would vibrate loose. If proper torque is applied, they cannot vibrate loose.
I think the issue is that they use a mechanical wrench during assembly and torque them in excess. And, since these manufacturing companies are all about doing things as cheaply as possible, they won’t spend the time and miniscule amount of anti-seize needed to prevent these problems. Over time, some surface oxidation takes place between the threads and in effect, bonds the 2 threads together.

-- Website is finally up and running....www.woodandwrite.com

View gfadvm's profile

gfadvm

10438 posts in 1277 days


#11 posted 1164 days ago

The hex bit is the best tool for removing these.Make sure you are using the right size!Most of the are 4mm not 1/8”.Insert the hex driver into the screw head,give it a good hard tap with a hammer and it will back right out.I took my Ridgid to the service center when I couldnt loosen the screws and the tech showed me this trick.I was kinda embarassed but it was worth the trip as I was fixin to ruin the screw heads.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

View Mojo1's profile

Mojo1

144 posts in 1277 days


#12 posted 1163 days ago

if you have removed all of the other bolts, try putting them back then Ttry again to remove the stubborn one.

View jasoncarpentry's profile

jasoncarpentry

111 posts in 1241 days


#13 posted 1163 days ago

Thanks for all the help. I was able to remove the remaining bolts with a 4 mm hex bit in my regular ole drill. However, I misplaced one of the bolts in the process. IMHO, the remaining seven bolts will suffice to hold the blade on, but I’m now concerned about the unbalanced cutting head. I hope the weight of a single bolt is dwarfed by the weight of the cutterhead itself, but I’m reluctant to turn it on until I get some reassurance.

-- Jim in Tennessee

View D_Allen's profile

D_Allen

495 posts in 1371 days


#14 posted 1163 days ago

You really should get another bolt.
With that cutterhead spinning that fast it may create just enough vibration to throw off the cut quality.
I doubt it will hurt the machine though.

-- Website is finally up and running....www.woodandwrite.com

View woDan's profile

woDan

8 posts in 1278 days


#15 posted 493 days ago

To all thinking about a DW735 purchase. I would suggest opening the box right in the store and checking to see if the screws holding the blades can be loosened using the T rench… If they are too tight ask the sales person to bring out another machine and try it again… Perhaps ask the store to loosen the screw then you will make the purchase. I agree this is a real problem… I did a real wild dance after tearing the skin off my knuckles trying to change the blades. I too took mine into a licenced De-Walt repair shop… 25 dollars was a fair price to have them loosen the screws. I contacted De-Walt about this problem… They sent me a new tool and a set of screws… The repair shop told me that they ruined a couple of screws getting them off…
I still really like my DW 735 however. It is a good planer.
Colorado Dan

-- Colorado Dan

showing 1 through 15 of 25 replies

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

GardenTenders.com :: gardening showcase