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Forum topic by MrMe posted 05-06-2011 07:40 AM 2757 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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MrMe

11 posts in 2048 days


05-06-2011 07:40 AM

Hello all!
I’m new to the site so please forgive this amateur. I recently acquired a used 6” Ridgid jointer which looks practically brand new, so the previous owners claim that he barely used it seems believable. In checking all the settings I found that the outfeed table was set too high but that was easily adjusted with the help of the downloaded manual. Unfortunately the outfeed and infeed tables are not parallel. The outfeed table dips down, or “droops” at the far end. In the little research I’ve done there is apparently an adjustment to be made in the “gibs”. The manual doesn’t say how to do this. It says that the unit should be serviced by a technician (but what’s the fun in that?). Any guidance on how to correct this bad alignment would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks in advance!

-- I thought I wanted a job - turns out I just wanted a paycheck.


6 replies so far

View bluekingfisher's profile

bluekingfisher

1246 posts in 2447 days


#1 posted 05-06-2011 09:54 AM

Hello and welcome.

I am not expert on the rigid model but if anything like my jointer it’s quite an easy fix. Without seeing your machine I cannot be exact on how you should go about the task but if I outline how I did mine you may be able to work out how its done your end.

Firstly, If I overstate the obvious or teaching you to suck eggs please forgive me…so here goes.

The outfeed table slides up and down the main body of the machine when you adjust/turn the height adjustment handle. The movement will be quite obvious as it slides up and down. The table is secured to the main body by either a thumb turn screw, bolt or allen nut, usually located on the side of the table, again dependant on your machine. If you back them off a little you will have a little play in the table when you lift it at the outfeed end (don’t completely remove the nuts just enough to have some play). The gibs are just a metal shim on mine approx 4” x 1/4” x 1/8” resting between the body of the jointer and the mating base of the table. If you are lucky it may just be a case of loosening off the securing nuts on the table to allow you to slide the gib nearer to the out feed end which will have the effect of raising the table a little. If by doing this and still doesn’t cure your problem you may have to pack/shim the table to raise it to the desired plane level, place the shim on top of the gib so it contacts the base of the table. It doesn’t take much to have an effect , some guys use strips cut from soft drinks cans but this thickness can be way too much. I recommend you buy a multi pack of brass shims which come in varying thicknesses, (some are tissue paper thin) you can buy them in craft/model shops and cost very little. The ones I bought were approx 2” x 4” sheets with about five in a pack and of various thicknesses, Once done carefully tighten the nuts on the table to secure the table but not so much to not allow the table to slide up and down without being if difficult to adjust. It may also be worth adding a smear of lithium greae to the ways and gib before tightening up. (after clearing out sawdust/ deris if there is any)

You will of course have to keep checking both tables are parallel and coplaner ( parallel across the table width)during the process. I would also recommend you use a trusted straight edge to cover the lenght of the jointer tables.

Once you have done this job for the first time it will be a piece of cake next time around.

For your info there is a book, by Jim Whyte I belive, called ‘Care and repair of shop machines’. One of the sections is on jointers and is quite comprehensive on that particular machine. If you are just starting out and buying some new/secondhand machines it may be worth buying, save you a lot of money on technician fees and more importantly, frustration.

Let me know how you get on. I hope this has been of assistance

Good luck

David

-- No one plans to fail, they just, just fail to plan

View gfadvm's profile

gfadvm

14940 posts in 2157 days


#2 posted 05-07-2011 05:32 AM

I have the Ridgid jointer and had a similar problem only the end of the outfeed table was too high.Just loosen those wierd looking screws on the back side of the outfeed table ,Level it to the infeed table using a long straightedge,tighten the screw thingys,and reset the depth of cut which you zeroed when you start this fix.Hope this helps.Mine has stayed perfect after this one time adjustment.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

View MrMe's profile

MrMe

11 posts in 2048 days


#3 posted 05-07-2011 04:52 PM

Thanks for the advice. I’ll try tackling the problem today and let you know how it turned out.

-- I thought I wanted a job - turns out I just wanted a paycheck.

View MrMe's profile

MrMe

11 posts in 2048 days


#4 posted 05-08-2011 01:22 AM

Hello again. I ended up having to shim the gibs because every time I tightened the bolts the table would dip again. Shimming them kept the table level. Started running some pressure treated 2×6s that I got for free from a dismatled deck. Plan on maiking some adirondack chairs. Is it just my imagination, or does pressure treated wood dull the blades quickly?

-- I thought I wanted a job - turns out I just wanted a paycheck.

View gfadvm's profile

gfadvm

14940 posts in 2157 days


#5 posted 05-08-2011 04:02 AM

Yes. Treated lumber will dull blades really fast. I personally think the Ridgid blades are better quality but dont know if they will fit in your yellow machine.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

View Grandpa's profile

Grandpa

3256 posts in 2143 days


#6 posted 05-08-2011 04:13 AM

Used lumber always contains dirt or other contaminates so it will dull the knives or your saw blades faster than new lumber. I don’t know how old this lumber is but the recent treated lumber is pretty rough on the lungs.
get good ventilation.

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