I see the reviews of the Lie Nielsen or I think originally Lee Valley 7 1/2 Low angle jointing plane which is for what I would call larger stock,
Does anybody know if anybody produces a smaller jointer hand plane for like smaller woodworking pieces?
I see a few ways of making jigs up for smaller hand planes but was interested if smaller type jointing planes are or where ever produced? Or are there brackets out there that will attach?
Thanks in advance
To answer your question here is a quote from "A Beginners Guide to Bench Planes - The Pocket Guide"
"It is very important to note however that these planes are designed to do these specific functions listed, but any plane can be set up to perform functions outside their designated roles. For instance a jointer can smooth, a smoother can be used to joint edges, and if the blade in a jack plane is not cambered and the jack plane tune accordingly, it can be used as a smoother."
Almost any manufactured fence, modern or vintage will fit any bench plane down to a reasonable size. It's not at all uncommon to find them on a #5.
To answer your question here is a quote from "A Beginners Guide to Bench Planes - The Pocket Guide"
"It is very important to note however that these planes are designed to do these specific functions listed, but any plane can be set up to perform functions outside their designated roles. For instance a jointer can smooth, a smoother can be used to joint edges, and if the blade in a jack plane is not cambered and the jack plane tune accordingly, it can be used as a smoother."
Almost any manufactured fence, modern or vintage will fit any bench plane down to a reasonable size. It s not at all uncommon to find them on a #5.
ANTHM27 << Did the jack and fore planes come with a side mount fence for jointing? >>
Easy and cheap fix for this is to find an old wood for plane or jointer, flatten base square to left side and screw on a piece of 1/2 in plywood extending 2 or 3 inches below the face. glue a piece of 1/4 py along the inside of your new fenct so the blade extends to the edge of the face
2 methods that alleviate the need for a fence (but I do have the LV fence which works on all my Stanleys 4-7):
Panel glue up - book end the edges and joint together. An angle wont matter, they will mate. They need to be flat tho.
Joint single edge - clamp the board to a table laying so the joint edge faces to table center. Elevate the board a 1/4 inch or so, so when the plane is on its side the blade contacts the full width of the board edge. Place the plane on its side, like a shooting board, and joint away. Use the blade skew lever to get a square edge - thats what the skew adjustment is for.
The no. 6 "fore plane" ( originally intended to be used with a curved blade to hog off wood across the grain ) actually has better use today with the blade sharpened square and used as a jointer. As such it's a good compromise between the no's 5 and 7.
You can also buy or build a wooden plane
and cut it to the length you want.
I've made several. It's not that hard to do.
I went over to iron planes because with wood
planes there's daily adjustment needed
because of humidity changes. Fine work
can be done with either. Veritas sells a
hardware kit with a depth adjuster now
which would simplify working with a wood
plane imo.
I see you're mostly looking for a fence to attach to a plane to help with getting 90 degree edges. The Lee valley fence (and I think the vintage Stanley's) will only work if the side of pour plane is reasonably square to the sole. So might want to check whatever plane you're hoping to use it with.
However, for small stock, I find it is simplest to do what another commenter above mentioned, and simply math plane the pieces you are trying to joint. If you do that, the angle of the edge doesn't matter, as the pieces will complement each other to result in a flat panel.
Make a wooden fence. Sharpen blade to a straight edge not curved, clamp fence to side of plane, joint an edge, joint mating edge from other side of board so that any inaccuracies in angle cancel out
Instead of the hand wrapped around the front knob….I "hook" my thumb on the plane's edge about where the knob is. The rest of the hand tucks under the plane's sole, and a knuckle or two rub against the board. You can feel IF the plane tilts in either direction.
Depending on the length of the board being jointed…anywhere from a #5-1/4 up to the #8 can work. Need a lot of rough cuts to remove first? Run a cambered jack along the edge a few times….less work for the jointer to do. The jack will knock down the worst of the rough/high spots, then the jointer can clean things up.
Basic set of jointers…Front to rear. #6c, #7c, and a #8.
Then there is a #5-1/2 sized plane. Also known as a Jumbo Jack plane.
2 methods that alleviate the need for a fence (but I do have the LV fence which works on all my Stanleys 4-7):
Panel glue up - book end the edges and joint together. An angle wont matter, they will mate. They need to be flat tho.
Joint single edge - clamp the board to a table laying so the joint edge faces to table center. Elevate the board a 1/4 inch or so, so when the plane is on its side the blade contacts the full width of the board edge. Place the plane on its side, like a shooting board, and joint away. Use the blade skew lever to get a square edge - thats what the skew adjustment is for.
Thanks for the reply, yes understand those two methods now, thank you. Your explained methods would work better than the LV fence with narrow width pieces ,due to the fence depth it seems the LV fence would only work on 3 to 4 inch wide pieces otherwise the fence would hit the vice. All good, thank you
The no. 6 "fore plane" ( originally intended to be used with a curved blade to hog off wood across the grain ) actually has better use today with the blade sharpened square and used as a jointer. As such it s a good compromise between the no s 5 and 7.
I see you re mostly looking for a fence to attach to a plane to help with getting 90 degree edges. The Lee valley fence (and I think the vintage Stanley s) will only work if the side of pour plane is reasonably square to the sole. So might want to check whatever plane you re hoping to use it with.
However, for small stock, I find it is simplest to do what another commenter above mentioned, and simply math plane the pieces you are trying to joint. If you do that, the angle of the edge doesn t matter, as the pieces will complement each other to result in a flat panel.
Got that link , thank you. Actually I did just that recently when I was making some picture frame profile up.
Here is a picture of the two ((mathed) (didnt know this word before)) pieces clamped together.
I Couldn't help but post a pic of the finished picture frame profile which worked well. As you can see i really needed the true 90 degree angles.
Instead of the hand wrapped around the front knob….I "hook" my thumb on the plane s edge about where the knob is. The rest of the hand tucks under the plane s sole, and a knuckle or two rub against the board. You can feel IF the plane tilts in either direction.
Depending on the length of the board being jointed…anywhere from a #5-1/4 up to the #8 can work. Need a lot of rough cuts to remove first? Run a cambered jack along the edge a few times….less work for the jointer to do. The jack will knock down the worst of the rough/high spots, then the jointer can clean things up.
Then there is a #5-1/2 sized plane. Also known as a Jumbo Jack plane.
Make a wooden fence. Sharpen blade to a straight edge not curved, clamp fence to side of plane, joint an edge, joint mating edge from other side of board so that any inaccuracies in angle cancel out
You can also buy or build a wooden plane
and cut it to the length you want.
I ve made several. It s not that hard to do.
I went over to iron planes because with wood
planes there s daily adjustment needed
because of humidity changes. Fine work
can be done with either. Veritas sells a
hardware kit with a depth adjuster now
which would simplify working with a wood
plane imo.
Thank you again Loren for your reply, I see those Wooden Plane hardware kits, interesting. You outlined one of the disadvantages with wooden planes being the need for a lot of re adjustment due humidity changes. I was wondering what the advantages of a wooden plane are? I would probably only purchase an old one for keep sake type of thing.
Reagrds
Anthony
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
LumberJocks Woodworking Forum
2.5M posts
96K members
Since 2006
A forum community dedicated to professional woodworkers and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about shop safety, wood, carpentry, lumber, finishing, tools, machinery, woodworking related topics, styles, scales, reviews, accessories, classifieds, and more!