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Jet WBS-14 bandsaw blade adjusting screw frozen

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Forum topic by BFamous posted 03-20-2018 01:37 AM 1193 views 0 times favorited 14 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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BFamous

119 posts in 118 days


03-20-2018 01:37 AM

All,
I have a JET bandsaw I inherited two years back that I’m starting to get into using, however the blade adjusting screw is completely frozen. I can’t turn it at all.
Before I start taking the entire thing apart to figure out what’s wrong, I figured I’d ask to see if anyone has experienced the same or had advice.
I’m ok with buying replacement parts or upgrades, but wanting to understand my options first.

Thanks

-- Brian Famous :: Charlotte, NC :: http://www.FamousArtisan.com


14 replies so far

View tomd's profile

tomd

2155 posts in 3767 days


#1 posted 03-20-2018 01:50 AM

I’m not sure what you mean by the blade adjusting screw, but if you mean the screw or bolt that controls the tilt of the top wheel to center the blade they usually have a lock nut on them at the base of the screw or bolt.

-- Tom D

View BFamous's profile

BFamous

119 posts in 118 days


#2 posted 03-20-2018 02:00 AM

Tom,
Blade adjusting screw is what the manual calls what I refer to as the tensioner rod. What you turn to adjust the tension on the blade.

-- Brian Famous :: Charlotte, NC :: http://www.FamousArtisan.com

View TheFridge's profile

TheFridge

9457 posts in 1483 days


#3 posted 03-20-2018 02:04 AM

Won’t go either way? Not even a bit?

Spray with PBBlaster and a couple taps with a hammer is always the first go to. Then heat and PBB and hammer.

If you can get it to move an inch, you can get it to move a mile.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

View BFamous's profile

BFamous

119 posts in 118 days


#4 posted 03-20-2018 02:15 AM

WD40 is soaking on it right now. Was gonna let it sit overnight, and then try again in the morning.
And no, it was not moving either direction… I had 12” lock jaw pliers on it and wasn’t budging it.

-- Brian Famous :: Charlotte, NC :: http://www.FamousArtisan.com

View toolie's profile

toolie

2121 posts in 2626 days


#5 posted 03-20-2018 02:58 AM



WD40 is soaking on it right now. Was gonna let it sit overnight, and then try again in the morning.
And no, it was not moving either direction… I had 12” lock jaw pliers on it and wasn t budging it.

- BFamous

Liquid Wrench? I always have plenty of it on hand when I refurb a machine. Always seems to do the job.

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

View BFamous's profile

BFamous

119 posts in 118 days


#6 posted 03-20-2018 03:03 AM

Well, PBB and a bigger wrench got it moving and now that I have it out, I can definitely see where some of the threads are what I’ll call chilled or bent. Unfortunately, my tap and die set is metric, so I’m not certain if I can re-thread it…
Any suggestions on where to get a new one if I can’t fix this one? Or is there a worthwhile upgrade that would make replacing this one unnecessary?

-- Brian Famous :: Charlotte, NC :: http://www.FamousArtisan.com

View Jim Dawson's profile

Jim Dawson

108 posts in 829 days


#7 posted 03-20-2018 11:14 PM

If the threads just need cleaning up, wouldn’t buying the correct die be the cheapest option?

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

6709 posts in 2196 days


#8 posted 03-20-2018 11:16 PM

If the threads just need cleaning up, wouldn’t buying the correct die be the cheapest option?
- Jim Dawson

Or just use a thin needle/thread file and clean them up.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View John Smith's profile

John Smith

889 posts in 160 days


#9 posted 03-20-2018 11:23 PM

one tool that I have – that I never need – until I need it – is the Thread Restoring File.
quickly and accurately restores damaged threads. less than $20 new.

also, if you can find a case hardened nut the size you need at BORG may help.

.

-- Graduated Valedictorian from the University of HardKnocks --

View BFamous's profile

BFamous

119 posts in 118 days


#10 posted 03-21-2018 12:46 AM



If the threads just need cleaning up, wouldn’t buying the correct die be the cheapest option?

- Jim Dawson


Some of the ridges right in the sweet spot are chipped and bent. I’m not certain if using the correct die would make it strong enough to not slip under high pressure. I’ll probably try that route first, but just wondering if some of the other options out there are worthwhile. I was looking at the Accuright Ratchet Rod for like $45. I could care less about the ratcheting part, but like the fact it has a 3/8 drive on the top instead of threads for a handle (my handle constantly loosens these days because it’s just threaded on). I’ve spent that much money in worse ways in my life, but was also thinking about just buying a 3/8 -16 acme threaded rod for around $15 and coming up with my own handle (maybe grind it square for a 1/4” drive).

Just looking for ideas at this point.

-- Brian Famous :: Charlotte, NC :: http://www.FamousArtisan.com

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

6709 posts in 2196 days


#11 posted 03-21-2018 01:05 AM

Are you sure it’s an SAE thread (3/8-16)? Just about everything on those machines should be metric I would think. I can’t remember any import machine I’ve seen/worked on that doesn’t use metric stuff.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View BFamous's profile

BFamous

119 posts in 118 days


#12 posted 03-21-2018 01:16 AM



Are you sure it s an SAE thread (3/8-16)? Just about everything on those machines should be metric I would think. I can t remember any import machine I ve seen/worked on that doesn t use metric stuff.

Cheers,
Brad

- MrUnix


I haven’t fully confirmed it yet, but all signs point to it being so. Most significantly none of my metric dies fitting properly even on the clean threads.
Though I also don’t know if it really matters what the current one is, as if I replace the rod I’m 95% assuredly going to replace the nut too. Am I wrong in thinking that I just need to worry about the rod and nut matching? There’s no threads in the slide itself, right?

-- Brian Famous :: Charlotte, NC :: http://www.FamousArtisan.com

View BFamous's profile

BFamous

119 posts in 118 days


#13 posted 03-21-2018 01:17 AM

Oh, also, I’m at least the third owner of this machine… So there’s no guarantee what is on here is original at this point…

-- Brian Famous :: Charlotte, NC :: http://www.FamousArtisan.com

View fivecodys's profile

fivecodys

999 posts in 1633 days


#14 posted 03-21-2018 08:50 PM

I would just replace that rod and while you are at it, swap the adjustment knob with a crank.

That’s what I did. Works way better now.
Sorry I don’t have a better picture. I just cropped this out of another photo I had.

-- There' are two theories to arguin' with a woman. Neither one works.

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