Panel Saw Please

Well… as my buddy owns timberline tools I would call him and give him a budget… See if he can start looking for a used one for you.

Drew

-- Drew, Pleasant Grove, Utah

Drew,
I think I saw some plans in a Shop Notes mag a few mos. ago. I’ll get the issue # for you if I can remember. I believe it has complete plans to build on for under $300 w/o the saw itself. I am going to build on myself after I get some other things wrapped up at the shop. Good Luck!

Ryan

-- Ryan Corrigan Sadieville, KY www.CelticCrossWood.com

I usually have some sloop in my measurements and I’ll have the big box guys rip it to about 1/2” over so that I can get it in my vehicle.

Or I’ll manhandle it home and use the sawhorses to get it into smaller size.

I’ve got a sliding table on my saw, but sometimes the dimensions of the cut pieces don’t lend themselves to being long rips or wide cross cuts and the sawhorses do fine.

-- Karson Southern Delaware karson_morrison@bigfoot.com

Another option is to use a FesTool plunge cut circular saw and the guide rail. I have the saw and it produces flawless cuts in all kins of sheet stock. I would recomend it to any one who is trying some large scale projects where there is a lot of sheets involved.

Ryan

-- Ryan Corrigan Sadieville, KY www.CelticCrossWood.com

I was watching a podcast from woodworking online (I think) that showed their favorite tips and tricks. They had a tip you might consider. The guy got a larger sheet of styrofoam and laid it on the floor, then laid the plywood on top of it and used his circular saw and one of those clamping guides to cut it. I have tried this a couple of times now and really like it. I used several spare 2×4’s and cut in between them, but it is the same principle. Support the plywood a couple inches above the floor, then you can kneel on it ito make the cut.

-- Rob McCune

I started a similar topic earlier here.

Rockler has a set of plans to make your own panel saw. It is only $3.95 for the plans. I bought the set and read through them. It would not be that difficult to construct, but it does take some room against a wall.

So far, I have been using the sawhorse and guides method with a circular saw. The problem is the splintering, since I do not have a plywood blade. But, it has worked for the most part. I have also cut plywood on a table saw when I had a helper around. Again, it works but I would like to get better results. It is too hard to move around a full sheet of plywood to cut. That is why I like the idea of the panel saw or guided saw. Then you can move the saw instead of the plywood.

-- Bill, Turlock California, http://www.brookswoodworks.com

I have seen plans to turn your table saw into a movable table… saw…

Drew

-- Drew, Pleasant Grove, Utah

I’m a Festool guy, and will loudly sing the praises until people tell me to shut up, but if you’ve already got a circular saw that you love you might check to see if you can adapt it to the EZ Smart rails. Or build your own rail system, as others have pointed out, there are various plans lying around on the web, most cost a few bucks, but not much. The key usually involves bolting some hardboard to the base of your circular saw.

The trick is to make sure that the blade is exactly parallel to the rail guide, and that your first cut cuts off some portion of the rail (in the Festool case this is a little replaceable rubber strip) so that you have an exact position of the edge of the cut for alignment on future cuts.

But if you get a system put together that does this right (especially if you get a saw that pivots around the cut line of your rail so that bevel cuts are easy to align) you’ll probably find yourself relegating the tablesaw to the dusty recesses, to be pulled out only when you have to do narrow ripping.

If you don’t already have a circular saw that you love, c’mon over to the Festool Owner’s Group , just be warned that it can become addictive.

-- Dan Lyke, Lagunitas California, http://www.flutterby.net/User:DanLyke

I would try Rob and Karsons suggestions and then decide if you want to invest in one of the more expensive options.

One of the 50” self-clamping edge guides and a good circular saw would be my next step up.

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

Here is my two bits. I clamp a semi straight board to the panel then cut it with a skill saw.

-- http://www.woodsongsfurniture.com

Like Ryan and Rob I use a circular saw and a 50” clamping guide. The only difference is I have a 3/8” piece of MDF bolted to the bottom of my saw to serve as a zero clearence insert. That will serve two purposes. One as a larger guide to go up against the clamping guide and two it will not chip the laminate on your plywood. Hope that will help.

-- St. Louis - just a cut away from finishing!

I’m with WayneC, self-clamping edge guides and a good circular saw.

You say that you cut a lot of plywood, but it’s relative. If you’re cutting daily, and this is your business, then you should really think about a good quality panel saw, as it does save time, and will pay for itself.

I enjoy doing cabinet work. Most start out as plywood boxes. I normally cut my ply, a bit oversized, and try to pre-cut all of the ply that’s needed, using my TS for the final cut. I tend to buy only what’s needed for the project so I don’t have to store sheet goods. I use a few saw horses, and an edge clamp, and get busy. This works for me. I really don’t enjoy this part of the process, and have though about buying a panel saw. Think this through, as any panel saw will consume space in your shop.

I’d like to offer a tip for the chipping problems mentioned (I’m a non-festool guy, no offense, just have never seen any festool products up close) in other posts. First, tune up your CS, be sure the base is square to the blade. A little paste wax on the base keeps it moving smoothly. Use a sharp blade designed for cutting plywood, they are inexpensive. Use 1” masking tape on the top and bottom of your cut line so the CS saws through the center of your tape.

-- Nicky

Wow thanks folks! Now I don’t know who’s idea to try first!

-- What would Norm do?

I’m constructing a sacrificial cutting table…basically a 3×7 frame made from 2×4’s that has folding table legs bolted to the bottom. The table stores flat, and when I’m ready to cut my sheets of plywood, I just pull out the table, put the ply on top, lock down my straight edge, set my saw depth to cut through the ply and just barely into the table surface, and make my cut. The table will support just about any cut I’ll need to make and I won’t have to worry about gravity happening, like I would with saw horses. I’ll post some photos when completed, hopefully this weekend.

-- Erik garagewoodworker.blogspot.com

Hi MountainDrew

Maybe this product will be of interest, it’s called “Ezee-Feed”.
http://www.ezee-feed.com/

Regards
niki

Drew, I too ,like Rob, have been using a one inch sheet of styrofoam that I picked up at Home Depot for about ten bucks. Just throw it on the floor, set the plywood on top, set the blade slightly deeper than the plywood and let her rip….err, so to speak. Then on to the table saw. Works great!

Drew, I built this one and it can handle material up to an inch thick.

I’ll have to let you know what magazine I got it from, later. I think it was Popular Woodworking?

-- Jesus is Lord!

As often as I have to cut plywood I, too, use sawhorses with 2×4’s supporting the plywood.
I have a straight-edge that is in 2 pieces that will join to be just over 8’ that I clamp down with C clamps. I think Woodcraft has one in its catalog.
A friend took a sheet of plywood and cut it in 2 sections 5’ and 3’ and then cut them into 10” strips. Cut slots half way thru each so they can fit together in a grid. That’s what he puts on the sawhorses. (We’re a little older and don’t want to bend over too much or to get down on the floor.) Breaks down to something that takes up little space in his shop.
Tape where you want to cut is a great idea.

-- No piece is cut too short. It was meant for a smaller project.

Ive been meaning to make myself a straight edge jig with either plywood or a metal edge attached to a 4’ (and another 8’) piece of hardboard. attach the “rail” to the hardboard, allowing enough overhang, and cut that off with your circ saw following the rail. Align this edge with your cut line (with the jig on the Keeper piece) clamp it down, and you essentially have a scrap bin version of the Festool saw (until you can spring for that). So far I’ve been trying to measure back from the blade, clamping down a straight edge and following that, I get close, but the results aren’t as clean as I would like. I have seen the foam panel method and think that would work fine too, (keeping the good face down)

-- The opposite of war isn't peace. It's creation. -- Wood T's: http://www.printfection.com/snbcreative

I think for the number of times you’ll use it, plus it’ll take up a lot of shop space, your better off buying the straight edge clamps. I recently bought the one from Rockler. You’ll have money left over to buy a tool that you really need.

-- Dick Cain, Hibbing, MN. http://www.woodcarvingillustrated.com/gallery/member.php?uid=3627&protype=1

If you are at HD buying your ply go over to the tool section and get the Empire Level Manufacturing Corp. Model 900 “Pro’s Edge.” It even comes with two small clamps and it is very inexpensive. While you are there get a metal (not plastic) speed square. You clamp the speed square to the “factory edge” of the 4×8 sheet and clamp the “Pro’s edge” up against the speed square. Don’t forget the offset of the blade…

Otherwise check out:

“Can a Circular Saw-Edge Guide Replace Your Table Saw” pp. 92 Fine Homebuilding Nov 2006

or

http://www.taunton.com/finehomebuilding/how-to/video/cut-plywood-without-a-tablesaw.aspx

or
Or… if you have alot of space and cut panels everyday:

“Build Your Own $50 Panel Saw” pp 24 Workbench Dec 2005
“Build the Ultimate Panel Saw” pp 48 Woodworker’s Journal Workshop Projects Winter 2004

Look into the Festool Plunge cut saw. Lay a piece of pink foam on the floor and go for it. You can’t take a panel saw to the job site…

-- John

Maybe it was, Workbench? Thanks, woodspar. I don’t find it takes up a lot of space. As you can see it is against the wall and if you are going to have a decent supply of plywood in storage, it will take up more space that this will.

-- Jesus is Lord!

http://www.tooltrolley.com/Projects/Projects.htm
It works pretty well. The downside is leaving the base on your CS, which makes it awkward for small jobs.

-- Keeping my fingers attached so I can stroke my wife's hair and hold my daughter's hand

I just ran across a video on www.finewoodworking.com that showed just what erikincolorado was posting.
It had the advantage that you could tilt the table, rest the plywood against it and then tilt both back at the same time.

-- No piece is cut too short. It was meant for a smaller project.