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Forum topic by BRWoodCreations posted 03-15-2018 06:18 PM 648 views 0 times favorited 17 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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BRWoodCreations

11 posts in 128 days


03-15-2018 06:18 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question finishing veneering tip

Hey group,

I have a problem where I messed up a calculation and now have to fix my error. I am creating a 54” round table (first one like this) where the outside is a 3” ring with a designed inlay. I created the octagon and cut the circles with my router and a circle cutting jig. However, I used dowels to join the miter joints to add additional support. Just so happens that one of the two dowels for each joint ended up being centered in the outside circle cut. The outside diameter currently is measuring at 54 1/8” round with the dowel being a 3/8” dowel.

So what are some ideas to fix my screw up? The two off the top of my head are to route a pattern around the bottom half of the outside circle to reduce the diameter to remove evidence of the dowels. The other option would be to edge band the outside edge and just smooth the top and bottom edges enough to take the sharp edges off of the wood (not sure if I used a round over on edge banding if it would chip or not).

I don’t have a pic of the outside edge yet, but will later. Here are pics of the wood and the two samples that I am designing the table off of. The pics were just inspiration on what the customer likes and not needed to be exact. She does not want the table with the wood having the ruff grain, and the pic of the top was for the pattern.

Thanks for any help!!!

-- Brian, Birmingham AL, http://www.brwoodcreations.com


17 replies so far

View gargey's profile

gargey

1010 posts in 831 days


#1 posted 03-15-2018 06:31 PM

The “designed inlay” will not cover it?

You’re doing inlay on poplar?

Not totally clear on what’s going on here.

View BRWoodCreations's profile

BRWoodCreations

11 posts in 128 days


#2 posted 03-15-2018 06:43 PM

inlay might not be the correct term. As seen in the sample picture the top is made up of an outside ring with the inside having a cross with diagonal pieces cut to the cross from the middle out.

The problem is that the outside circle edge cut into wooden dowels I placed at the miter joints and show on the edge now. I am trying to find a way to correct my mistake without starting over and still have a product that I can be proud of.

I hope that makes sense.

-- Brian, Birmingham AL, http://www.brwoodcreations.com

View bondogaposis's profile

bondogaposis

4836 posts in 2407 days


#3 posted 03-15-2018 07:04 PM

The simplest solution would be to reduce the diameter of the table enough to remove them. Another option might be to route a decorative profile on the edge that removes the dowels, I’m sure how deep you have to go or whether there is danger in revealing other dowels. Edge banding on solid wood does not work because it doesn’t allow for movement and will eventually come off, plus it will make your table look like it was made of plywood.

-- Bondo Gaposis

View Lee's profile

Lee

118 posts in 933 days


#4 posted 03-15-2018 07:41 PM

How does this sound, cut a 1/2 wide dado on the edge all the way around the top and insert a spline of contrasting wood then trim flush with the router.

-- Colombia Custom Woodworking

View BRWoodCreations's profile

BRWoodCreations

11 posts in 128 days


#5 posted 03-15-2018 08:38 PM

Thanks Bondo,,

The profile was one of the answers I thought of that seemed easy enough. And I am not a fan of edge banding myself unless it is on plywood for something like shelves.

Lee,

I like the inlay idea around the diameter and insetting a spline. That could actually add a decorative element that would still give her the profile of the straight cut end something of a custom flair. Only woods Ii have enough of on hand for that right now are Walnut, Ambrosia Maple and Oak. With the finish sort of being a gray wash of sorts I am inclined to think that the walnut might actually look pretty nice but what do you think?

-- Brian, Birmingham AL, http://www.brwoodcreations.com

View Lee's profile

Lee

118 posts in 933 days


#6 posted 03-15-2018 10:09 PM

Yea, Brian, I think walnut would look nice as a decorative inlay. post some pictures when your done, I’d like to see the final project.

-- Colombia Custom Woodworking

View BRWoodCreations's profile

BRWoodCreations

11 posts in 128 days


#7 posted 03-15-2018 11:50 PM

Here is a pic of my mess up, it is 5/16” deep left of the dowel.

-- Brian, Birmingham AL, http://www.brwoodcreations.com

View jbay's profile

jbay

2430 posts in 955 days


#8 posted 03-16-2018 12:02 AM

Looking at your picture, I would just mortise out the dowel and fill it with the same poplar.

Is the center hardwood, how do you keep movement from expanding and breaking the frame?

View BRWoodCreations's profile

BRWoodCreations

11 posts in 128 days


#9 posted 03-16-2018 01:06 AM

The center is hardwood as well. Wood movement is accounted for by the boards being attached at the ends and not glued on the sides to allow for expansion. I am also alternating grain pattern with the boards that are side by side. The middle pattern will more than likely be attached by pocket holes as I haven’t found a method I really like better other than marking the cross braces and diagonals as sliding loose tenons possible, but that might cause more issues than it solves.

If there is anyone that has addressed these issues on a similar project please do share your experience as this is the first table of this type I have attempted.

-- Brian, Birmingham AL, http://www.brwoodcreations.com

View Woodknack's profile (online now)

Woodknack

12076 posts in 2435 days


#10 posted 03-16-2018 01:15 AM

I would router out the dowel and insert a contrasting plug like you see on Prairie style furniture.

-- Rick M, http://thewoodknack.blogspot.com/

View Aj2's profile

Aj2

1509 posts in 1853 days


#11 posted 03-16-2018 01:48 AM

Isn’t this type of table usually build with plywood. To deal with the wood shrinking and cracking or buckling.
I’ve always liked a round table with a sun burst top.

-- Aj

View BRWoodCreations's profile

BRWoodCreations

11 posts in 128 days


#12 posted 03-17-2018 11:18 PM

I decided to route out a groove all the way around and use it for detail. The customer came by today and loved the idea and is now having me try to match their chairs to make the table and chairs really look like they are a set.

I really appreciate everyone’s input and there were a lot of ideas that I had not even thought of.

I will post pics of the finished table when I am done.

Thanks Again!

-- Brian, Birmingham AL, http://www.brwoodcreations.com

View jerryminer's profile

jerryminer

935 posts in 1497 days


#13 posted 03-18-2018 07:37 PM


Wood movement is accounted for by the boards being attached at the ends and not glued on the sides to allow for expansion.- BRWoodCreations

How does that allow for wood movement when you have a solid border?

-- Jerry, making sawdust professionally since 1976

View Tony_S's profile (online now)

Tony_S

885 posts in 3138 days


#14 posted 03-18-2018 08:36 PM

You definitely need to address/redesign the table top, or you’ll be getting a phone call from an angry customer in the near future.
You’ll be able to make the cross sections out of solid wood, but you’re not going to be able to make the 45 degree sections solid.
Possibly MDF or plywood with a thin resawn veneer applied to match, but solid will fail. If it were me….I would do the whole center section with veneer.

-- It is the mark of an educated mind to be able to entertain a thought without accepting it. Aristotle

View jbay's profile

jbay

2430 posts in 955 days


#15 posted 03-18-2018 08:40 PM

^This is solid advise, or should I call it veneered advise.

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