Table Saw rust

If this is only light rust I would recommend G-96 Gun Spray by Outers. Works good,lasts a long time and you can forget the wax.
And no,it won’t harm the wood. I use it on my Rigid 3650 2 or three times a year.

-- Don't rollerskate in a buffalo herd

Once you get the rust off use boeshield to keep it that way.

-- Superdav "No matter where you go - there you are." http://chiselandforge.com

Hi Guys,
I used sand paper years ago, in fact emery cloth, on my palm sander. Cleaned the rust, and it did not harm the cast surface. I then used plain old Turtle wax that I used on my car. That must have been 8 years ago, no rust since, and I live on a salt water front. No detrimental happenings with the wood being cut, or the finish on new projects. Worked great.
Jack

-- Jack Keefe Shediac NB Canada

DUDE WHATTA SCORE !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Congrats on the saw!

When I bought my saw it was a floor demo @ I had to get the rust off. I started with WD-40 & a scotchbrite and quit when I broke a sweat and then bought this;

http://woodworker.com/boeshield-t-9-mssu-821-322.asp?search=rust off&searchmode=2

I applied the Rust Off about two times to get everything clean and just use the Boeshield and pastwax. It lasts along time and I’ve still got it on the shelf.

I was reading somewhere, can’t remember where, a few guys were raving about this stuff.
Top Saver Rust Remover and Lubricant——http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=17471
I have not used it myself
there are some articles about this at Highland hardware, here is one——http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/woodnews/may_2006/ask_the_staff_may.html
I have used Rust Free , and it works pretty good with the Scotch Brite pad, wear rubber gloves, it works better, than Evapo rust on a tabletop,Evapo rust works best for soaking and planes, and such. Boeshield T-9 protects good after you get the rust off.
More info… http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/free-woodworking-tips.aspx

-- E J ------- Always Keep a Firm Grip on Your Tool

Steel wool and mineral spirit would work.

Evapo rust is a another option. Itsa great product.
Wipe on, let sit for 20 minute and then wipe off

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001BNZGY0/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_1?pf_rd_p=486539851&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B001BO1DGY&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1ZXNJRHTDHCM9BN15527

-- shdesign3.com

WOW. Congratulations! If it is truly light rust I’d go with wd40 or mineral spirits and a scotchbrite. If it is in the pores of the cast iron I would go with evaporust. You can usually get it at some autopart stores.

As to prevention….I’d say paste wax and keep it covered to keep the dust off it. Some kind of tarp or other material that won’t absorb all that salt air.

-- Galootish log blog, http://www.timberframe-tools.com

Did your mother not teach you that it’s not nice to STEAL from people? LOL
I would also go with WD-40 or gun spray and a scotchbrite pad if it’s just surface rust and then a good paste wax.

I have this funny block called a “Wunderbar” rust eraser. It takes the
rust off but not the metal, and it doesn’t damage the patina of the
iron like sand paper will.

I power brush and occasionally sand machine tops too, but if I want to
preserve the grind and patina, I try to stick with using a soft brass
wire brush and the Wunderbar.

I bought an old Magna jointer for my Shopsmith. I used a 2” scotchbrite pad on a angle grinder to remove the rust. It worked very well.
Here’s the before and after photo’s:

I’m in the camp that says … if it’s light surface rust …. WD-40, a ScotchBrite pad, and your Random Orbital Sander should be all you need.

I think you want to do the LEAST that you can, while still accomplishing your goal. The saying, in medicine, is “Start low, and titrate slow.”

I’m ALSO in the camp that hates you for getting that saw at that price, though, so …. ;-)

-- -- Neil

Thanks for all the advise. I went with things I had before I ran out and bought something. Used WD 40 and a Scotch Brite pad on the orbital sander. Worked great.

after using the wd40, do you guys use another product to make sure the wd40 lubricant doesn’t get on your wood?

-- If you think it will take a week and cost $100, it will take a month and cost $400.

If you are scared of the wd 40 getting on something. Clean the top with mineral spirits really good. Then use a thin coat of a finishing oil like BLO or teak oil. The best thing is Boeshield.

-- Superdav "No matter where you go - there you are." http://chiselandforge.com

After WD40, I would recomend a wipe down with mineral spirit or equal before you apply wax or anthing else on top of it.

-- I'll be a woodworker when I grow up. HHHOPKS