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Question about oil paint, hammertone specifically.

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Forum topic by BoardButcherer posted 03-13-2018 05:51 PM 342 views 0 times favorited 7 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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BoardButcherer

144 posts in 209 days


03-13-2018 05:51 PM

Yeah I know this isn’t a wood finish, but I also know there are plenty of people with decades of experience on this forum and someone likely has decades of experience with oil paint.

So I decided to use a bunch of Hammerite to repaint my table saw and it’s been working great on the cast steel and rough finish parts. It was a disaster on the smooth metal. Specifically the cabinet. I did not anticipate it being as runny as it is for as long as it does, and did everything wrong trying to fix it. My problem now is the stuff won’t dry.

When I get it dry I’ll just sand it down and take care of it, but I’ve been waiting 2 weeks and it’s still gummy, showing no signs of drying any further.

If you’re not familiar with Hammerite it’s an oil based paint with two additives. It has a crapload of Xylene in it to give the hammertone texture to the paint when the xylene separates after application, and it has something else I can’t identify that repels the xylene and keeps it from mixing with the paint or thinning it. Whatever the second component is it doesn’t wash out with anything short of an industrial grade degreaser, and even that won’t get rid of all of it. I’ve ruined a lot of brushes messing around with this. This stuff is thick as molasses straight out of the can and can’t be thinned, but also takes forever to get dry to the touch because the xylene lubricates and locks in the VOC.

Unless you put it on cast iron/steel, then it works perfectly.

So how do I get this paint to dry without sticking it in an oven? I left it out in the sun for a week and that just seemed to make it run a bit more.

All suggestions are welcome. I really don’t want to scrape this thing down by hand with a knife and start over.


7 replies so far

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

5047 posts in 4075 days


#1 posted 03-13-2018 06:05 PM

No experience here, but I would sure be contacting the mfg. with a prob. like you’re having.
Bill

-- bill@magraphics.us

View John Smith's profile

John Smith

1306 posts in 277 days


#2 posted 03-13-2018 06:34 PM

I sprayed my TS cabinet with the Rust-Oleum hammer finish and it turned out “ok”.
what was the ambient temperature of the room when you applied it ??
some of those finishes have pretty strict parameters of temperature and humidity for satisfactory results.

-- some people are like a Slinky - - - pretty much good for nothing. But still make you smile when you push them down a flight of stairs.

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BoardButcherer

144 posts in 209 days


#3 posted 03-13-2018 06:56 PM



I sprayed my TS cabinet with the Rust-Oleum hammer finish and it turned out “ok”.
what was the ambient temperature of the room when you applied it ??
some of those finishes have pretty strict parameters of temperature and humidity for satisfactory results.

- John Smith

Strict temperature requirements doesn’t even begin to describe it. I forgot to mention that part.

60-80 Fahrenheit. I painted one part at 60 degrees and got dramatically different results than I did at 70-75. Not bad results, but night and day differences. The temperature is directly related to the size of the features in the finished product, and the paint will never so much as tack up if the ambient temp is below 60 judging from what I saw on that one part, and if you go above 80 it’ll dry too fast for the hammertone features to form.

However I kept it all at the right temperature during the first 24 hours, and it’s been at the right temperature for 2 weeks. I even put a space heater on it for a while when I got impatient before setting it out in the sun.

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John Smith

1306 posts in 277 days


#4 posted 03-13-2018 08:03 PM

seems like you followed the manufacturers instructions.

X2 with Bill . . . I would call the customer service number listed on the can and see what they say.

.

-- some people are like a Slinky - - - pretty much good for nothing. But still make you smile when you push them down a flight of stairs.

View crank49's profile

crank49

4032 posts in 3085 days


#5 posted 03-14-2018 03:08 AM

I have worked with some industrial paints that behave in freaky ways if exposed to gas heat. Can only use electric. Could that be your problem?

View msinc's profile

msinc

497 posts in 618 days


#6 posted 03-14-2018 11:22 AM

I’ve used it and didn’t really have too much trouble. The stuff I used wasn’t that touchy about temperature, etc. It really sounds like you got a bad or old batch. Because hammertone is not a high demand paint there is a very high probability that you got a batch that has been sitting around for a while. I would get some MEK and take it all off and try again. Last time I had trouble with a finish I called the company and they sent me fresh new stuff no charge to try again.
Are these spray cans you are using or are you shooting it out of a gun??? If it is a spray can I always run hot water over the can and shake it up to get the paint warm. Seems to spray and go on a lot better. That wont help if you have a bad batch to start with…nothing will. If it’s bad to begin with you are beat before you ever get started. If you are spraying it out of your gun you have to spray it kind of thick and don’t try to “atomize” it too much with more air or higher pressure. Texture type paint has to go on thick with low air pressure. It is a real challenge because the way it must be sprayed is very conducive to runs. Spraying a good “tack coat” and letting it go a little beyond “ready for the final” will help with it trying to run.

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BoardButcherer

144 posts in 209 days


#7 posted 03-14-2018 07:20 PM



I ve used it and didn t really have too much trouble. The stuff I used wasn t that touchy about temperature, etc. It really sounds like you got a bad or old batch. Because hammertone is not a high demand paint there is a very high probability that you got a batch that has been sitting around for a while. I would get some MEK and take it all off and try again. Last time I had trouble with a finish I called the company and they sent me fresh new stuff no charge to try again.
Are these spray cans you are using or are you shooting it out of a gun??? If it is a spray can I always run hot water over the can and shake it up to get the paint warm. Seems to spray and go on a lot better. That wont help if you have a bad batch to start with…nothing will. If it s bad to begin with you are beat before you ever get started. If you are spraying it out of your gun you have to spray it kind of thick and don t try to “atomize” it too much with more air or higher pressure. Texture type paint has to go on thick with low air pressure. It is a real challenge because the way it must be sprayed is very conducive to runs. Spraying a good “tack coat” and letting it go a little beyond “ready for the final” will help with it trying to run.

- msinc

What brand did you use? I’m definitely up for trying someone else’s product after this.

I brushed and rolled. I don’t have a sprayer that could handle the stuff, like I said thick as molasses.

MEK takes the paint off while it’s wet, after it’s tacked up it just makes a mess. Soaking the dried stuff leaves behind the gummy resin that keeps the Xylene from breaking the paint down which has to be scrubbed off with degreaser and lots of disposable rags.

Putting on a tack coat and trying to go over it is what caused my problem, I think. The tacky paint grabbed way too much fresh paint and I ended up with a super thick coat I couldn’t pull with a dry brush, just push it around.

As mentioned it works great on rough surfaces, but the smooth surfaces with multiple angles and curves I just couldn’t do.

And it’s quite possible I did get some bad cans. I’m using green on the smooth surfaces and black on the rough, and I don’t think the green is a popular choice combined with the fact that hammerite isn’t a popular paint.

I’ll call their service department.

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