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bowl gouge angles

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Forum topic by Karda posted 03-13-2018 05:52 AM 707 views 0 times favorited 23 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Karda

1109 posts in 578 days


03-13-2018 05:52 AM

My 1/2 inch bowl gouge has I thin a 65 degree angle. Iuse a belt sander with Ellsworth style fixed jig, 2” protruding from jig pivot 4 1/4 inches from belt. i am getting a 5/8s bowl gouge I want to use it for the bottom because they are heavier and i hear more stable. what angle should i use and what would be a better angle for the outside and how do you set them up on a belt sander thanks


23 replies so far

View Nubsnstubs's profile

Nubsnstubs

1296 posts in 1754 days


#1 posted 03-13-2018 03:11 PM

Who are you buying the gouge from? If it happens to be a Thompson gouge, it will already be ground to what Doug considers to be a good grind. Just set up and duplicate it.
If it’s not a Thompson, experiment until you find an angle that you like. ............ Jerry (in Tucson)

-- Jerry (in Tucson) www.woodturnerstools.com

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Wildwood

2322 posts in 2158 days


#2 posted 03-13-2018 03:52 PM

Whole lot more depends upon design or style, depth of the bowl and your skill than just bevel angle on a bowl gouge.

Here is nice article & video. You can do the same bevels sharpening on a belt sander but that’s not in my wheel house.

http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/additional-bevels-turning-deeper-bowls/

-- Bill

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Karda

1109 posts in 578 days


#3 posted 03-13-2018 03:55 PM

I need a place to start, and how do i change angles with this kind of jig.

View gwilki's profile

gwilki

202 posts in 1497 days


#4 posted 03-13-2018 05:22 PM

Many turners grind a “bottom of the bowl” gouge that has a much blunter angle than the gouge they use for the rest of the bowl. For me, my bowl gouge is between 55° and 60°. My bowl bottom gouge is between 75° and 80°.
Much depends on how steep your bowl is and how deep it is. If the bowl is deep and steep, you may not be able to keep the bevel on the wood if the angle is too acute. The handle of the gouge will be hitting the edge of the bowl.
As for how you change the angle with the type of jig your are using, you are limited to moving the pivot point of the jig closer and farther from the belt and changing the projection of the gouge from the jig.

-- Grant Wilkinson, Ottawa ON

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Karda

1109 posts in 578 days


#5 posted 03-13-2018 09:46 PM

Hi, the bowls I think I will do won’t be too deep and I’ll try to stay away fro steep sides. I started using carbide for deep work and many times I get a better surface than with a bowls gouge. i am going to get a larger gouge And want to use that for bottoms. I need angles to start with because what I do is cut a dowel the angle I want then put that in my jig and use that to set the pivot point for that angle. I’ll post a picture of my setupthanks for sharing now I have a place to start

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Lazyman

2045 posts in 1411 days


#6 posted 03-13-2018 10:45 PM

If the bowl gouge comes with a traditional grind from the manufacturer, i would probably just stick with the bevel and angle it comes with. That is what I did with the Hurricane and Benjamin’s Best bowl gouges that I reserve for finishing the bottom of the bowl. With that approach, you won’t use the Irish/Ellsworth jig you show above. Instead, use a V-block and just roll it side-to-side in the V-groove. To keep the same angle just adjust your platform until matches the existing angle. You can usually do this just by eye, but if necessary, mark the bevel with a Sharpie or Magic Marker and manually move the belt with the bevel against the belt. When the you see that the area you marked has a stripe where it is completely free of the marker, you have the same angle. The setup I am talking about can be see at about 8 seconds into this video ( they probably cover in more detail later).

Note, if you don’t have a v-block, you can still do it by hand just being careful to keep the tool at 90 degrees to the belt as you roll it. It is basically the same technique used to sharpen a spindle roughing gouge.

-- Nathan, TX -- Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.

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Karda

1109 posts in 578 days


#7 posted 03-14-2018 03:37 AM

ok thanks for the suggestion, i saved the proedge video, good info there thanks

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Karda

1109 posts in 578 days


#8 posted 03-22-2018 11:13 PM

help, i tried ti put a 75 degree angle on my bowl gouge but all I did was blunt the tool, there is no edge it is almost a right angle. How do i get it back to a proper grind. I don’t want to waste most of my tool tring to figure out how to sharpen it thanks

View OSU55's profile

OSU55

1697 posts in 2013 days


#9 posted 03-23-2018 12:07 AM

I recommend you use your jig, just limit the amount of arc you swing the tool through. A traditional grind needs the wings back just a little so an entire wing doesnt grab. limiting the arc will do that. You will have to grind the wings a little more than the middle to remove material. A v-groove will create a flat face which is easier to catch an entire side with. 75 is a good angle for a bottom gouge. If it is truly blunt you arent at 75. What are you using to measure it? Grind the heel off a little as well to help get around the bottom corner. I can probably post a pic if needed.

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Karda

1109 posts in 578 days


#10 posted 03-23-2018 12:36 AM

I made a 75 degree template to set the belt angle then ground. I tried to cut with it and it would just barely cut. I am wondering if I need that steep an angle, I don’t plan on doing real deep bowls, probably 3’’ or less the 65 I use now seems to work well. If I were working deeper I would use my carbide anyway. I use the jig thanks

View Lazyman's profile

Lazyman

2045 posts in 1411 days


#11 posted 03-23-2018 01:36 AM

75 is more like a scraper than a gouge (that is the angle of my scraper bevels). I think that is way too blunt for a gouge. My standard grind bowl gouges all came from Benjamins Best, Hurricane and even Sorby with about a 40-45 degree bevel and I left them with the angle that they came with. I’ve never had a problem with catches on the bottom with the manufacturer’s grind.

-- Nathan, TX -- Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.

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Karda

1109 posts in 578 days


#12 posted 03-23-2018 03:36 AM

ok thanks i will rethink the bevel

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

6766 posts in 2223 days


#13 posted 03-23-2018 04:07 AM

Do you guys really measure your grind angles?!? That would drive me nuts! I just eye-ball them and tweak as needed. Having an adjustable jig helps… but even one like the one Mike shows above can be adjusted by moving the pivot point forward or backward.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

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Karda

1109 posts in 578 days


#14 posted 03-23-2018 04:29 AM

I set up my jig to grind a certain angle, I never measure again unless I am changing angles

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Lazyman

2045 posts in 1411 days


#15 posted 03-23-2018 04:41 AM



Do you guys really measure your grind angles?!? That would drive me nuts! I just eye-ball them and tweak as needed. Having an adjustable jig helps… but even one like the one Mike shows above can be adjusted by moving the pivot point forward or backward.

Cheers,
Brad

- MrUnix

No, I just went out and checked what they are after he asked the question. I just set my platform to match the angle already on the tool and go, though my tool rest does have some preset angles in 5° increments that make it quick and easy. For my Irish grind, I just set my shop built imitation sorby Proedge jig the same way every time. As long as I have the right belt on my sander, it only takes about 30 seconds to freshen an edge.

-- Nathan, TX -- Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.

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