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1/4 spalted veneer

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Forum topic by Bruce Martens posted 03-10-2018 06:12 AM 419 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Bruce Martens

15 posts in 203 days


03-10-2018 06:12 AM

Topic tags/keywords: question maple veneering

Hi, I have some 1/4 inch spalted and figured bandsaw slices. I want to use them book-matched as the surface of some coffee tables but I am concerned that if I glue a thick slice of like this to plywood it will move and the plywood won’t. It is fairly solid but a bit punky/crumbly in some small areas so may not stay intact if I try to thin it to veneer thickness.

If I epoxy or glue it to plywood first and then sand it down to 1/8” will that be problematic?

Also I would appreciate any suggestions of how to handle the edge profile since it would need to be irregular. I think I would have to trim it close to the live edge and round at the ends.

-- It's not the mistakes you make that matter, it's the mistakes you leave.


6 replies so far

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TheFridge

10091 posts in 1602 days


#1 posted 03-10-2018 06:48 AM

Yeah that’s on the thick side. I’d contact LJ shipwright. A wealth of veneering info.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

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Rich

3524 posts in 705 days


#2 posted 03-10-2018 06:54 AM

Since your veneer is crosscut, there should be less movement. However, Fridge makes a good suggestion to see what shipwright thinks. Beautiful stuff, BTW.

-- Half of what we read or hear about finishing is right. We just don’t know which half! — Bob Flexner

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shipwright

8062 posts in 2914 days


#3 posted 03-10-2018 06:52 PM

You are falling just a little between the cracks of my experience. I am first and foremost a boat builder and my experience there says that an overlay like a teak over plywood deck can be glued down with epoxy up to about 1/8” of teak thickness. Thicker should be glued with a flexible compound like Sikaflex or Thiokol to account for possible shrinkage and swelling.
My veneer experience doesn’t go as thick as 1/4” so I don’t have any first hand knowledge to pass on there.

However, I would think that if you apply it with any good glue (personal choice hide glue) and sand it down to 1/8”, you should be fine. The better you protect it from atmospheric moisture the less you have to worry about but I think you should be fine.

-- Paul M ..............the early bird may get the worm but it’s the second mouse that gets the cheese! http://thecanadianschooloffrenchmarquetry.com/

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WyattCo

93 posts in 220 days


#4 posted 03-10-2018 09:58 PM

There’s not going to be a lot of movement at 1/8” thick. However, creep can still be a problem. Hide glue will be your best friend.

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Bruce Martens

15 posts in 203 days


#5 posted 03-11-2018 01:55 AM

Thanks everyone, sounds like there are a couple of ways to go with this but I might try attaching it with epoxy to plywood, using a thickness sander to bring it down to 1/8” and then flooding it with thinned epoxy to stabilize it because I think this stuff will suck it right up.

-- It's not the mistakes you make that matter, it's the mistakes you leave.

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shipwright

8062 posts in 2914 days


#6 posted 03-11-2018 02:17 AM

That should work very well. The best penetrating epoxy to use would be IMHO System Three S1 sealer. I have used it for years and it really excells at penetrating and hardening. This is particularly important if the spaulting has advanced to soften the wood. You can recoat with it as a finish or use a bar top epoxy or really anything else over it.

-- Paul M ..............the early bird may get the worm but it’s the second mouse that gets the cheese! http://thecanadianschooloffrenchmarquetry.com/

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