Knotty Alder

The only outstanding caution would be about stain blotching, and you’re past that one, so get to cutting!

Kindly,

Lee

-- "...in his brain, which is as dry as the remainder biscuit after a voyage, he hath strange places cramm'd with observation, the which he vents in mangled forms." --Shakespeare, "As You Like It"

Excellent . The wife likes figured maple and love knotty alder. I just need to make some saw dust. Does alder prefer to sanded or scraped for final.

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I use quite a bit of alder and really like the way it mills. It’s a bit on the soft side, but a good, durable, finish should work well.

-- Adversity doesn't build character...................it reveals it.

I have milled about 800 BF of it in the last year and at least for me it tends to tearout easily while jointing and routing. When you joint/rout the edges take it in small amounts and it shouldn’t be a huge problem. If you decide to stain, I wipe it down with “green” mineral spirits first and then apply the stain when the wood is still moist. This has always helped me with the blotching problem, although I only stain it if the customer demands it. I don’t use a scraper but I have heard it works well. I use 150 than 220 with ROS than wipe with water and let dry to raise the grain then finish with 320 by hand.

-- Bill - "Freedon flies in your heart like an Eagle" Audie Murphy

Thanks guys this should save me time and money.

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Two species have the highest waste factor for me anyway. 1) knotty pine 2) knotty alder I have had batches in the past that yielded 40-45% waste FWIW

I find that, with knotty alder, it is always best to make the piece EXACTLY as your wife wants it. Otherwise you’ll end up with a knotty head…

...wow, that was terrible… ye’t I can’t bring myself to delete it…

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Stumps, it takes an incredible bold man to make such a statement and then stand by it, I applaud you. Bravo good Sir, Bravo.

-- Bill - "Freedon flies in your heart like an Eagle" Audie Murphy

Be careful on the knotty alder. There are two grades – lightly knotty (no holes or knots falling out) and heavy knotty (holes and knots falling out). If you use the light knotty, be careful when milling as it has a tendency to blow out like hickory. On the heavy knotty be careful in that you can have chunks of wood and knots flying around when cutting and milling (don’t ask how I know this).

The stuff doesn’t stain were beans. It’s like maple and cherry. If you want to lightly color use a clear shellac slightly tinted to the color you want. Even dyes tend to blotch some in this wood. I would recommend a finish that will provide a little amber coloring to the wood beacuse it doesn’t have much color or warmth to it. Clear poly makes it look dull. Lacquer does the same thing. I use ML Campbell Duravar conversion varnish that adds a slight amber tone and really makes the finished product warm and inviting.

-- Don, Diamond Lake Custom Woodworks - http://www.dlwoodworks.com - "If you make something idiot proof, all they do is make a better idiot"

I love knottey Alder. We used it in part of my store.
I finished with semi-gloss lacquer using an airless paint gun (no stain)

-- She thought I hung the moon--now she just thinks I did it wrong

Ya the clear finish has a nice look, and I think I found some of the better grade here locally. I may try the deft brushing lacquer, or that em6000. Thanks for all the input folks, it really helps.

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I have a dining room table made from Knotty Alder, beautiful. I love the rustic look. (I know that doesn’t help with questions)

I’m at the end of building and Entertainment Center out of it. I bought Charles Niel Blotch Control and it works amazinly well. Easy wood to work with and sand. I use epoxy with a dye added to it to fill in the knots. I highly recommend using a dye stain if you choose to change your mind and not leave it clear. Good luck.

-- Ken, "Everyday above ground is a good day!"

I wonder if blotch control is the same as stain sealer?

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Luke lets see a pic!

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