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Bandsaw Blade question???

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Forum topic by Harold posted 03-17-2008 11:53 PM 925 views 1 time favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Harold

310 posts in 2504 days


03-17-2008 11:53 PM

Topic tags/keywords: bandsaw milling veneering question

A friend will ordering a carbide tipped bandsaw blade for the 18” Delta. What my question is, what type of tooth arrangement would work best. He will be resawing and roughing out bowl blanks, the wood used will range from Mango( similar to a hard maple) on the soft side up to Keawe ( mesquite) and Ohia
(similar to walnut)on the harder end. We are leaning towards a 3/4” wide blade, but I am trying to get alittle more info on the tooth setup that will work best. The carbide blade is alittle pricey, but the conventional blades just don’t last. Also I seem to get alot of resin buildup on my tools, is there a product that works well for this, keep in mind I live in a very humid/salty location so something that would protect the tools while not contaminating the wood would be ideal.
thanks.

-- If knowledge is not shared, it is forgotten.


8 replies so far

View Tony's profile

Tony

978 posts in 2686 days


#1 posted 03-18-2008 12:43 AM

Lenox Blades http://lumberjocks.com/reviews/75 , http://www.lenoxtools.com/enUS/Product/Tri-master.html

I would definitely recommended this blade. 3/4” 3tpi. Standard.

I have been re-sawing 12” wide Oak board up to 10’ long ALL day,with no problems at all. The 3/4” is not too good for tight curves, but just knocking the corners off bowl blanks no-problems.

A little expensive, but for me it was worth it.

-- Tony - All things are possible, just some things are more difficult than others! - SKYPE: Heron2005 (http://www.poydatjatuolit.fi)

View Harold's profile

Harold

310 posts in 2504 days


#2 posted 03-18-2008 02:25 AM

thank you Tony, I was curious if the skip tooth would run alittle cooler and perhaps mitigate the resin problem.

-- If knowledge is not shared, it is forgotten.

View Blake's profile

Blake

3437 posts in 2530 days


#3 posted 03-18-2008 03:20 AM

Where do you buy these? I followed the link but it seems to be information only.

-- Happy woodworking! http://www.openarmsphotography.com

View Sawdust2's profile

Sawdust2

1467 posts in 2744 days


#4 posted 03-18-2008 03:34 AM

Check www.highlandwoodworking.com for it’s resawing blade. It is highly recommended.

Lee

-- No piece is cut too short. It was meant for a smaller project.

View John Ormsby's profile

John Ormsby

1279 posts in 2393 days


#5 posted 03-18-2008 06:58 AM

Give Louis Iturra a call at 1-888-722-7078 I believe he sells Lenox blades. He is very knowledgeable. You can also purchase a blade tension gage if you wish. I adjust my expensive band saw blades with a tension gage and have never broken a blade. I use a Lenox 1” on my MM24 exclusively. I don’t think you will have any problem with a 3/4” on your 18” wheels. You will be amazed at the quality and speed of cuts. I have sawn green and dry and soft and exotic hardwoods (such as 2”x7” pink Ivory & 4”x5” Macassar Ebony) with no problems. I would suggest you take the band off once in a while and give it a good cleaning. This will improve the cut and give you a longer life on an expensive blade. Don’t be afraid to set the tension at the factory recommendation. It will give you the best performance. I set the 1” at 28,000 psi.
Here is a link to Lenox for more info on the Tri-master blades. The vari-tooth design will give you the smoothest cut if that is what you are looking for. It looks like they do not make the vari-tooth in a 1/2” or 3/4” band. Hope this helps, John

-- Oldworld, Fair Oaks, Ca

View Doug S.'s profile

Doug S.

295 posts in 2364 days


#6 posted 04-02-2008 12:35 AM

I’ve got a 1” Lenox Tri-Master on a MM16 BS and it will slice up Mango very happily and leave a very nice surface that doesn’t need much (if any) cleanup – maybe 1 light pass thru a drum sander afterwards. If you can keep the feed rate pretty consistent I very often get no blade marks at all. I’d have to double check mine but I think it’s the 2/3 TPI but I think they also have a 3/4 in that width. Even Ipe cuts like butter with it. i know they also came out with a slightly less costly blade than the Trimaster that I haven’t tried but read good reviews from folks that have used both. I used to use a Woodslicer blade on my previous Jet 14” and would probably have bought 5-6 blades at around $175 so it puts the TM cost into a bit of perpective. Mine shows no signs of needing a replacement for a long time to come.

-- Use the fence Luke

View Grumpy's profile

Grumpy

19463 posts in 2507 days


#7 posted 04-02-2008 08:52 AM

I agree with Tony. a 3/4 blade with 3TPI will nock the socks off the thinner blades with lots of teeth.

-- Grumpy - "Always look on the bright side of life"- Monty Python

View Harold's profile

Harold

310 posts in 2504 days


#8 posted 04-02-2008 06:20 PM

We got the tri-master blade, I don’t have an educated opinion yet but I am impressed thus far. If it will last like the carbide tipped circular blades on the hard woods it will save a great deal of money as well as time and headaches.

-- If knowledge is not shared, it is forgotten.

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