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Panels for thick frame-and-panel interior doors

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Forum topic by GregD posted 04-22-2011 11:17 PM 1661 views 0 times favorited 5 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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GregD

617 posts in 1793 days


04-22-2011 11:17 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question mahogany

I am making a thick (1-3/4”) interior frame-and-panel door. The panels are about 9” wide.

Having only a 6” jointer I thought the thing to do was resaw 5” wide 8/4 stock to make bookmatched blanks, and use 2 blanks back-to-back to make up the desired thickness – maybe. More likely not all of the bookmached blanks will come out to a 7/8” thickness so the panels might end up a shade thinner than the stiles and rails. Is that acceptable or tacky?

Is best to (a) glue the blanks together into a single 1-3/4” thick panel blank and then mill both sides, or (b) mill 2 blanks on 1 side each and not bother gluing them together. Or would either method work?

I am thinking the panels might be more split-resistant if they are glued together. Another idea is to plan on them coming out a bit thin, and so add thin (1/8” – 1/4”) middle layer of poplar. If I do that, would it help or hurt to skew the grain of the poplar maybe 5 degrees relative to the grain of the blanks (African mahogany)?

On the other hand the easiest thing for me to do is NOT glue the panels together. The router bits I have for the coping and sticking don’t mill the slot for the panels. They are dimensioned for 1/2” panel slots. I’m going to cut those with wing cutters. If the panels end up only 13/16” (or even 3/4”) thick, I could mill out parallel slots of 3/16” (or 1/8”) so each panel would be in its own slot. If I do something like this would it be best to put finish on both sides of the panels before assembling the door?

One last thing – finishing. I am planning to leave the door (African mahogany) unstained and finish with Waterlox. I figure it is best to finish the panels before assembly so when they contract no unfinished wood is exposed. Does that sound about right?

Thanks for your help!

-- Greg D.


5 replies so far

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pjones46

209 posts in 1300 days


#1 posted 04-23-2011 07:28 AM

First, are you trying to match something that is existing in the room, house or etc.

-- God is great, the Beer is good and people are Crazy. www.pauljoneswoodworks.com

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GregD

617 posts in 1793 days


#2 posted 04-23-2011 04:07 PM

I am not trying to match anything in the room or house. The other interior doors are the typical hardboard hollow core “6 panel” doors common at the big box stores painted white. I did match the general layout of these doors (widths and positions of the stiles and rails) but I’m using a different sticking profile.

-- Greg D.

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pjones46

209 posts in 1300 days


#3 posted 04-24-2011 05:34 AM

I think either method would work, but, if you glue them together I question what would happen to the other if one cracked over time. As far as a middle layer, how about birch ply, it would be more stable.

In my travels to England I have seen doors with the panels proud, the same and thinner, but most the same or proud.

Not much help to you but more food for thought.

-- God is great, the Beer is good and people are Crazy. www.pauljoneswoodworks.com

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GregD

617 posts in 1793 days


#4 posted 04-25-2011 02:59 AM

Over the weekend I managed to get all the panels glued up. Many (most?) are going to be shy of 7/8”; probably closer to 13/16.

At the moment I’m thinking I’ll keep the faces of the panels flush with the stiles and rails and add 1/8” (for example) hardboard – no glue – between the panels to get the desired thickness.

-- Greg D.

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pjones46

209 posts in 1300 days


#5 posted 04-25-2011 03:11 AM

Greg,

Sounds like a plan, floating is a good idea. Love to see how it turns out and if there were any unanticipated problems.

-- God is great, the Beer is good and people are Crazy. www.pauljoneswoodworks.com

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