|Forum topic by GregD||posted 04-22-2011 11:17 PM||2306 views||0 times favorited||5 replies|
04-22-2011 11:17 PM
I am making a thick (1-3/4”) interior frame-and-panel door. The panels are about 9” wide.
Having only a 6” jointer I thought the thing to do was resaw 5” wide 8/4 stock to make bookmatched blanks, and use 2 blanks back-to-back to make up the desired thickness – maybe. More likely not all of the bookmached blanks will come out to a 7/8” thickness so the panels might end up a shade thinner than the stiles and rails. Is that acceptable or tacky?
Is best to (a) glue the blanks together into a single 1-3/4” thick panel blank and then mill both sides, or (b) mill 2 blanks on 1 side each and not bother gluing them together. Or would either method work?
I am thinking the panels might be more split-resistant if they are glued together. Another idea is to plan on them coming out a bit thin, and so add thin (1/8” – 1/4”) middle layer of poplar. If I do that, would it help or hurt to skew the grain of the poplar maybe 5 degrees relative to the grain of the blanks (African mahogany)?
On the other hand the easiest thing for me to do is NOT glue the panels together. The router bits I have for the coping and sticking don’t mill the slot for the panels. They are dimensioned for 1/2” panel slots. I’m going to cut those with wing cutters. If the panels end up only 13/16” (or even 3/4”) thick, I could mill out parallel slots of 3/16” (or 1/8”) so each panel would be in its own slot. If I do something like this would it be best to put finish on both sides of the panels before assembling the door?
One last thing – finishing. I am planning to leave the door (African mahogany) unstained and finish with Waterlox. I figure it is best to finish the panels before assembly so when they contract no unfinished wood is exposed. Does that sound about right?
Thanks for your help!
-- Greg D.