Moving from grinder to Mark II honing guide?

  • Advertise with us

« back to Hand Tools forum

Forum topic by kokako posted 03-04-2018 12:04 AM 404 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View kokako's profile


12 posts in 2588 days

03-04-2018 12:04 AM

Is there anyone out there who uses a grinder and and Mark II honing guide? I would like to use the grinder to speed up the initial bevel shaping, but it gets frustrating when moving to the Mark II as the angle is always off.

I have the Veritas Grinding Jig with the little plastic angle setting wedge thing, but it doesn’t seem to work for me or is just too fiddly.

Any suggestions?

10 replies so far

View Sunstealer73's profile


155 posts in 2024 days

#1 posted 03-04-2018 01:22 AM

I use the Veritas grinding jig with mine and it seems to work well. The grinding jig isn’t real intuitive though. I have to check the directions sheet every time I use it. You have to pay attention to the thicknesses lines and match them up correctly with what you’re grinding.

View Lazyman's profile


1810 posts in 1319 days

#2 posted 03-04-2018 03:13 AM

I have the Mark II but not the grinder jig. How often to you have to regrind the bevel? I’ve only done that when it was really messed up from abuse or to reset a garage sale chisel. I personally don’t like the hollow grind so I generally try to avoid using the grinder if I don’t have to. In fact, I have gotten in the habit of using a belt sander with a belt grinder belt on it. Without the setup wedge, I usually just eyeball it or use a sharpie to color the edge and just make sure that it looks like it is the angle is set to match one of my chisels that has the right angle already.

BTW, I just read the instructions for using the wedge to set the angle. Are you adding a line to compensate for the thickness of the jig itself?

-- Nathan, TX -- Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.

View kokako's profile


12 posts in 2588 days

#3 posted 03-04-2018 03:20 AM

Yes I have tried to use the wedge and adding a line, but I find it never is just exactly right and then when I get to the water stone, even a slightly different angle means to have a lot of extra work to do…

I wish there was a way to lock the blade into the Mark II, and then there was some kind of way to slot it into the grinder jig…. Maybe it’s possible if you remove the roller arm and make something that replaces it and slots into the grinder jig… That would be great!

View Don W's profile

Don W

18661 posts in 2499 days

#4 posted 03-04-2018 12:08 PM

Free hand will solve your issue and hollow grinding makes free hand pretty easy

-- - Collecting is an investment in the past, and the future.

View mitch_56's profile


20 posts in 405 days

#5 posted 03-04-2018 04:55 PM

I have the exact same setup as the OP, and the exact same problems. Solved it this way: forget about the plastic wedge grinder angle setup thing, because it doesn’t match the Mk2.

So you have your tool, it’s at the correct primary bevel angle and all is well, but it’s time to re-grind the primary and get a nice hollow grind for speedy sharpenings.

Just eyeball the Grinding Jig angle until it looks as though the outside curve of the grinding wheel is contacting your primary bevel dead center. Color your primary bevel with say a Sharpie, put it on the Grinding Jig rest and just with hand pressure, abrade it back and forth on the grinding wheel as if the grinder were on. The wheel will remove the Sharpie ink where grinding would have happened. If that’s roughly centered in your primary bevel, you have nailed it. Otherwise, adjust the angle of the Grinding Jig and re-apply Sharpie ink and test again until you have it perfectly centered in your primary.

That way, when you grind, it will remove starting in the center of your primary bevel. The more you grind, the wider the hollow will get. I try to go until I just have a mm or less of the primary remaining at the top and bottom. You can then use those two narrow bands and just freehand sharpen your primary—it’s fast and will come out perfectly. Switch to the Mk2 for perfect micro-bevels.

As always when grinding, when you’ve removed most of your primary and that tip is getting really thin, there’s just not enough metal for any realistic heat sink, so it’s really easy to burn the steel, so be careful and go slow. My grinder just has 3600 rpm speed, so towards the end, I’m grinding for ~ one second, and quenching in ice water for 10-15 seconds.

View Andre's profile


1723 posts in 1738 days

#6 posted 03-04-2018 06:06 PM

I use Hand crank grinder for hollow grinds, the Mark II hasn’t been used in about 3 years. With a hollow grind, free hand sharpening is very easy or even using the ruler trick helps.

-- Lifting one end of the plank.

View Lazyman's profile


1810 posts in 1319 days

#7 posted 03-04-2018 06:07 PM

Just a thought…some chisels have a sort of wedged or tapered blade. I wonder if that could be somehow throwing off the setup of one or both of the jigs? Have you ever measured the actual angle of the bevel after grinding?

-- Nathan, TX -- Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.

View kokako's profile


12 posts in 2588 days

#8 posted 03-05-2018 12:54 AM

Hey guys, thanks for all the input on this.

I think I’ve had a breakthrough! After my last post, I went out to the shed to play around with it and I took off the roller foot. Then I discovered that the base fits perfectly in the slot of the grinder jig! have a look:

The great thing is that as you can see from the photo, the blade actually lays flat on the grinder jig, so there is no guesswork on the holder thickness!

I did a test and used the first indicator on the wedge, and then reattached the roller, move to the water stone and the stone told me that I was closer than I’ve ever been before!

I don’t know if Veritas meant for this to work this way, and I can’t recall the manual saying so, but maybe they should!

View Derek Cohen's profile

Derek Cohen

364 posts in 3900 days

#9 posted 03-07-2018 03:20 PM

You are looking at this wrongly.

A honing guide is for creating and honing a secondary microbevel. It is NOT used for honing a full bevel.

A grinder is for creating the primary (hollow) bevel. The honing guide then ADDS a secondary bevel.

Do not attempt to match the bevels. Just accept that they do different jobs.

Regards from Perth


-- Buildiing furniture, and reviewing and building tools at

View JohnChung's profile


401 posts in 2006 days

#10 posted 03-08-2018 09:40 AM

I have the Mark II. Too fiddly. Now using eclipse style guide.

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics