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Forum topic by bbrown posted 03-02-2018 03:54 PM 601 views 0 times favorited 7 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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bbrown

234 posts in 3753 days


03-02-2018 03:54 PM

These seem to be the least expensive bandsaw blades available. Are they any good?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/POWERTEC-13205X-Band-Saw-Blade-105-Inch-x-1-4-Inch-x-6TPI-x-0-025/302514353153?epid=26011373677&hash=item466f42b401:g:cnAAAOSwK5tal41F:sc:ShippingMethodStandard!24551!US!-1

I hate to buy expensive blades and then hit a hidden bit of metal in my wood. Seems to happen too often with my hardwood lumber.

-- Bill Micah 6:8


7 replies so far

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BoardButcherer

144 posts in 295 days


#1 posted 03-02-2018 04:01 PM

No luck with a metal detector?

I think the better option would be to grab a metal detector to check the wood and keep buying the good blades to cut your clean wood with, and keep a couple of the cheap blades around to run through pieces that you can’t get the metal out of.

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smitdog

411 posts in 2306 days


#2 posted 03-02-2018 04:37 PM

For that price with free shipping try one out and let us know :)

-- Jarrett - Mount Vernon, Ohio

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Loren

10477 posts in 3849 days


#3 posted 03-02-2018 04:59 PM

I save money by soldering up my own. I buy
coil stock on ebay.

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bbrown

234 posts in 3753 days


#4 posted 03-02-2018 11:17 PM

Yes, a metal detector might be in order. Just had a bad run with some very nice walnut boards from an old barn. Never really had much problem before that.

If I order one I’ll pass on a review.

Loren, can you share more info on this? What is required to make your own blades and what stock do you buy?

-- Bill Micah 6:8

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Loren

10477 posts in 3849 days


#5 posted 03-03-2018 12:45 AM

http://wiki.vintagemachinery.org/BandsawBladeSoldering.ashx

Any coil stock with a relatively low tooth
count will work for wood blades. Most of the
coils sold on ebay are suitable for metal only
so you’ll have to keep an eye on the listings
and see what comes up.

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bbrown

234 posts in 3753 days


#6 posted 03-03-2018 02:28 PM

Thanks Loren. Great article.

-- Bill Micah 6:8

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therealSteveN

1692 posts in 775 days


#7 posted 08-02-2018 05:03 PM

An absolute best way to weld up blades is to use a DoAll Welder/Annealer which is attached to many DoAll bandsaws found in machine shops across America. I am not an eggspurt in this field, but have been given to understanding that the welding process hardens the metal, which makes it brittle, and prone to snapping prematurely. If you follow the weld with an Annealing process it softens the metal, decreases stress, and does a “tempering” making it not nearly as prone to breakage. Many call the annealing “heat treating” or Post Weld Heat Treatment (PWHT).

Essentially the metal involved are cousins between wood and metal cutting blades, as already discussed the difference is tooth set, and TPI count. Metal workers are cutting much harder stock, and usually doing quite a bit more of it than woodworkers, thus the welder annealer on the DoAll BS’s, but when talking to places about having my own BS blades made they all say they use the weld anneal process. This is something easily Googled for more information about welding and or annealing a BS blade. Places where pros go will say both, and Billie Bobs site for whatevah you wanna know about anything, may not say both. It is sure just welding can attach the material though. Question is how long will it run before failure.

Another item that pops up is “I broke my blade” often you hear of someone filing it down, and rewelding it. Generally frowned upon as the metal can be repaired, AFTER you cut off the damaged ends, then you can grind it down, and reweld. Problem is most commercially available blades don’t have enough “extra give” to make a band that will fit your saw if you do it right.

I have 2 places to go where I can use a DoAll, but after talking to others across America these DoAlls are everywhere, usually in Tool and Die places. Those are businesses, and some of them will rent you use on their DoAll, it’s something to consider if making your own sounds like you want to do this. I’d secure the spot though, before buying a roll of 100’ of stock.

A lot of the info you see about just welding they grind a taper to the metal and overlap this. On a DoAll you just clean off any notable burrs, and abutt the 2 pieces full thickness, and the DoAll takes care of the attaching. After they have a grinding wheel right there to dress down the weld. Some of the upper end ones have a tensioner attached so you can test the strength right then. I’ve not used one of those, just the basic units, and from walking up to it with metal stock the right length to having a blade is about 90 seconds, pretty slick process.

Stock availability is found as mentioned on E-Bay, but I have also found better grades of stock, though sometimes higher per 100’ at McMaster Carr, MSCdirect, Northern Tool, and occasionally a spot that I just hit online.

-- Think safe, be safe

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