Trash can cyclone lids

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Forum topic by bluekingfisher posted 04-20-2011 04:07 PM 2912 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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1250 posts in 2943 days

04-20-2011 04:07 PM

I bought one of the above in anticipation of creating a two stage dust/chip collector for my 2HP DC

The inside diameter of the trash can lid is 21” All of the metal trash cans I can find have an o/s dia of 18 1/2”.

I live in the UK so perhaps the diams are nearer the 21” than the sizes of trash cans I can find over here??

My question is what size are the US trash cans and if not similar in size to the trash can lid how do you rig it up so the lid doesn’t rattle around the top of the can??

Nothing ever seems simple!


-- No one plans to fail, they just, just fail to plan

6 replies so far

View patron's profile


13600 posts in 3305 days

#1 posted 04-20-2011 04:27 PM

might have to make your own ply reducing collar
maybe with some hold downs on it
and seals

good luck

i’d send mine
but you probably don’t want to pay
for the extra cost of the trash

-- david - only thru kindness can this world be whole . If we don't succeed we run the risk of failure. Dan Quayle

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1250 posts in 2943 days

#2 posted 04-20-2011 04:30 PM

Is your lid a perfect fit, or at least the can and lid similar in size?

-- No one plans to fail, they just, just fail to plan

View SPHinTampa's profile


567 posts in 3649 days

#3 posted 04-20-2011 05:11 PM

I used peel and stick weather stripping around the edges.

-- Shawn, I ask in order to learn

View NBeener's profile


4816 posts in 3138 days

#4 posted 04-20-2011 05:43 PM

On the subject …...

Mine was a Woodcraft buy.

The ports stick STRAIGHT up, at 90-degrees from the lid.

If I were doing it again … I’d definitely buy one of the cyclone lids where the ports are much closer to parallel to the lid, itself.

Otherwise … whatever hose you attach TO the lid … has to make a 90-degree bend.

If your ductwork is ceiling mounted, then … the duct running to the cyclone INPUT might be straight, but … you still have a wicked bend on the output port.

The best way to say this is: evaluate YOUR duct layout, and know that …. there ARE two kinds of lids, with two configurations of ports.


-- -- Neil

View HorizontalMike's profile


7749 posts in 2878 days

#5 posted 04-20-2011 08:29 PM

Follow Patron’s advice and make one out of ply. Here is mine (ugly but works fine). In the third image down, you can see I angled the lid interface to make it self-sealing. Made some mistakes early and did a rebuild lower down the page:

You can also follow the link beck to the homepage of Phil Thien’s Separator Forum and see other examples as well.

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

View bluekingfisher's profile


1250 posts in 2943 days

#6 posted 04-21-2011 09:46 AM

Tampa, beener, HMike,

Thanks all for your responses fellahs, most useful.

Just to get me up and running I’ll cut a ply reducer for the inside of the commercial lid, see how that works out first.

Point taken on the port positioning Neil, I’ll get away with one of the ducts entering pretty much straight in. For the other (out) I may have to do a little jiggery pokery to minimise the severity of the bends.

That project of your Mike looks fairly straightforward to build, particul;arly as you have ironed out all the gremlins in the design process for me ;-) I have most of the bits & pieces you have used lying around so shouldn’t cost a fortune to build although if I were to buy all the parts I could imagine it would cost more than one would initially think? I’ll definately give it a go, I may have to get back in touch with you if that’s OK Mike? should I get into difficulties

Many thanks boys.


-- No one plans to fail, they just, just fail to plan

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