Cutting Board Question

i have never used titebond III for cutting boards, but i have made a about 30 with the original titebond, it took 23 trips through a dishwasher for one of my boards to fall appart (wanted to know)

initally i had a similar problem with the glue and the grain rising but i found that if in the sanding process when i was doing the final sanding with 220 sandpaper if i got the wood a little hot with the sanding the problem dissapeared. i dont mean hot enough to burn the wood but warm enough that you can feel it as far as i can tell this seals the pores in the endgrain and hardens the glue to where it doesnt melt as easily when wet.

hope this helps

jay angel

-- "not all those who wander are lost" JRR tolken

oh wanted to say nice cutting board, what type of wood did you use i assume the dark wood is walnut is the other maple?

jay angel

-- "not all those who wander are lost" JRR tolken

The glue should be fine but I’m no cutting board expert. Get more advice on that if you are going to sell it. The main point I would like to make, though, is with regard to coronet’s comment: Maybe he was just testing his, but you should never put anything wood in the dish washer.

The same goes for your salad forks and wood-handled knives. This warning should go with any cutting boards you sell. They should only be hand washed and immediately towel dried. Food-safe oil should be re-applied after every few uses or every couple of weeks. This simple occasional care and maintenance is crucial if you want your wood cutting board to last.

A dishwasher is a great way to destroy wood projects. You may as well put your cat in the washing machine too.

-- Check out my new website! http://www.theeasellife.com

I have researched Titebond III, and at least you can take comfort that is is food safe. It won’t harm you.

-- Maplewood, MN

I make a lot of end grain boards and I had one recently that did exactly as yours. It is walnut and maple. I use Titebond III. I finish them with mineral oil and melted beeswax and put it on the boards while warm using about three coats.. A couple of days after oiling the board I ran my hand across it and noticed that there were ridges at every glue line. I resanded at 220 until smooth and put another coat of oil. The next day the ridges were back. I sanded a third time and they never came back. Now this board never came close to water so I haven’t a clue why it happened unless the moisture content was higher than normal. It is the only one that has done this out of about 50 I have made in the past few months.

As far as the grain raising when wet, I saw this happen with my first couple of boards. I solved the problem with the mineral oil and beeswax and putting a least three coats on it. The beeswax makes water just roll off. I have been using one in my kitchen for about three months, usually everyday. I wash it off in the sink, and it stays smooth.

-- I don't make mistakes, only design changes....

Hadn’t had that issue yet. I’ve used TB III and it’s clones on simlilar boards. Not sure what the deal is but wanted to post and say that the Space Invaders design is classic! Brings back some DOS/Atari memories! Laughed when I saw it. I’ll expect to see some Galaga and Asteroids in the future??

-- Jeff, South Carolina

Second thought, Dennis might be on to something. The moisture content of the board seems like it could be an issue. It makes sense at first read, but what do I know? Good Luck.

-- Jeff, South Carolina

Yes, did you have a chance to moisture meter the board before working it? I suppose there’s a possibility that perhaps it was unusually dry beforehand?

-- "That which has in itself the greatest use, possesses the greatest beauty." - Unknown Shaker

After the big Xmas run on endgrain boards, with warping during shipping, raised glue lines etc., I wonder has anyone out there in LJ land made a board with Gorilla glue?

-- "Bordnerizing" perfectly good lumber for over a decade.

Thanks to everyone for the feedback. Sorry to say that moisture meter is a new term to me, so no, I did not do that. I have however made several more boards since that first one, and have not had the problem with any of them. I am wondering if I might not have let the glue cure long enough on the first one, and maybe it reacted to the water where it would not have if it were fully cured. I let these newer boards sit for four or five days before sanding them to their final state and finishing them. Problem seems to be solved for now anyway. Thanks again!

Oh, and here’s the next design I made. It’s the triforce from the Legend of Zelda game series. Both boards are walnut and hard maple.

!(Triforce Board)!

Wow, that is a nice board.

-- Maplewood, MN