How does the blade looks for this Sash fillister plane - HELP

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Forum topic by mafe posted 04-19-2011 12:23 AM 7568 views 0 times favorited 22 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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11730 posts in 3113 days

04-19-2011 12:23 AM

Topic tags/keywords: sash fillister plane

Hi LJ’s.

I bought a bunch of planes and among then were this wonderful old skeved sash fillister plane.
I have found out it was designed for making window frames, and even the use, but no details, And I have not been able to find any pictures of the blade.
Since it came without a blade I want to find or make one, so if some one have a plane like this or a book with a picture of the blade I will be really happy for some info.

As you can see the sole has a wedge that comes out, this confuse me!
How wide should the blade then be?
As the sole with or without the insert?

Best of my thoughts,

-- MAD F, the fanatical rhykenologist and vintage architect. Democraticwoodworking.

22 replies so far

View tdv's profile


1188 posts in 3094 days

#1 posted 04-19-2011 12:34 AM

Hi Mads do you think the plane may be a combination plane & there could be a selection of blade widths with different wedges to support the spacing between the sole of the plane & the depth stop? It also looks like a skewed blade.Looks like there should be a matching spacer wedge behind the blade too

-- God created wood that we may create. Trevor East Yorkshire UK

View Loren's profile


10476 posts in 3672 days

#2 posted 04-19-2011 12:39 AM

Check for glue residue in the slot on the base. My bet is that loose
part is what remains and there should be another one, but it’s missing.
A replaceable cheek perhaps, or a design feature put there to simplify

The blade, a skew iron,, would be the width of the sole you have plus
the insert. I suspect hide glue held the inserts in place, but after
so long it just lets go.

View Dez's profile


1166 posts in 4101 days

#3 posted 04-19-2011 12:42 AM

The shape of the blade should match the profile of the body.???

-- Folly ever comes cloaked in opportunity!

View tdv's profile


1188 posts in 3094 days

#4 posted 04-19-2011 12:46 AM

I agree with Dez it looks as though it’s function is just rebating (rabbeting) sashes & not moulding with different infill widths to match different width blades

-- God created wood that we may create. Trevor East Yorkshire UK

View mafe's profile


11730 posts in 3113 days

#5 posted 04-19-2011 01:02 AM

View mvflaim's profile


189 posts in 3115 days

#6 posted 04-19-2011 01:44 AM

You have a sliding arm moving fillister plane. The plane blade is skewed and is as wide as the bottom. It’s only used with one blade. The idea behind them is that you can cut a rabbet behind the molding profile as it was customary to always work from the face.

View WayneC's profile


13754 posts in 4121 days

#7 posted 04-19-2011 01:51 AM

I would recommend you send a PM to Lumberjock Philip Edwards. He makes moving fillister planes and I am sure he would be able to give you guidance or possibly make you one (he is a wooden plane maker) for a reasonable charge. He is in the UK.

Link to his plane.

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

View bigike's profile


4052 posts in 3312 days

#8 posted 04-19-2011 01:52 AM

mads this is what I get

-- Ike, Big Daddies Woodshop,

View Chelios's profile


568 posts in 3090 days

#9 posted 04-19-2011 02:00 AM

For a plow plane like this can be used with a variety of blades

see here

About 10 planes down on the list

View Dennisgrosen's profile


10880 posts in 3139 days

#10 posted 04-19-2011 02:38 AM

No Chelios it ain´t a plough even though at first glimse it seems to

My gess is that its a skewed rabbetplane with two options for blades (lack of spurcutters )
the narrow blade is just a normal skewed blade like the one´s that is on shoulder/rabbets /plough planes
in construction with the tang in the mittle
and the wide blade is a combination between the shoulder/plough planeblade
and one from a side-escapements blade where the tang is set to one side only

I think that is what you are looking for …... I have looked thrugh my planebooks
and in none of them they seems to mention this type with two or more blades
to the same rabbetplane

I think its rare and unik plane you have found ….. and with your luck … too LOL

thank´s for sharing Mads

take care

View bko's profile


118 posts in 3041 days

#11 posted 04-19-2011 02:47 AM

Hi Mads,

This is a sash fillister. A normal fillister has a fence attached the bottom of the plane like the one WayneC shows above. A sash fillister has a fence that can “hop over” the work piece so the reference surface for the fence is not the one you are cutting into. By the way, an easy way to tell is that I have never seen a plow plane with a skew mouth and I have seen many sash fillisters and they all have skew mouths for a slicing cut.

The loose piece and the slot behind the blade are for “boxing” which is where a stronger wood, usually boxwood, is let into the plane to improve the wear resistance. You are missing a piece of boxing which is fairly typical. You can replace the missing piece with any tight-grained hardwood.

The blade for this plane is just like the blade for a wooden rabbit (rebate) plane, like so: See the 7/8 inch wide rabbit plane blade, but I will bet you need more like 1 1/4 inch. Put the blade in the plane and draw a line across the blade at the mouth, then grind back to that line with a square edge, then start putting the 30 degree bevel on the blade.

Looks like a fun project to restore it!


View lwllms's profile


555 posts in 3306 days

#12 posted 04-19-2011 03:01 AM

The iron for that plane looks like a regular molding plane iron but with a straight skewed cutting edge. Here’s a sash fillister I made a while ago:

The difference is the one I made is an off-the-bench sash fillister with a conical escapement and the one you’re looking at is an on-the-bench sash fillister with a regular side escapement. One throws shavings on the bench and thee other off. The main advantage of the off-the-bench style is that the skew works with the fence and tends to pull the fence tight to the work. The on-the-bench style have a skew that tends to push the fence away from the surface you’re registering against and you have to overcome this by forcing the fence into the work laterally.

The boxing is loose and you’ll need to repair it on this plane. I highly recommend you use Old Brown Glue for this. You can get it from Patrick Edwards who makes it, it’s an old formula liquid hide glue.

On edit: The iron is not shaped like a rabbet plane iron with a centered tang. It’s like a regular molding plane iron with the tang on the side. If you buy a Lie-Nielsen iron, size it by the tang width, not the width of the bit. Looking at the photos again, part of the boxing is missing, both arm wedges need to be replaced and the main wedge is missing. I really suggest you avoid trying to fix this plane. There are dealers who can supply an old one in good shape if you need one.

View Chelios's profile


568 posts in 3090 days

#13 posted 04-19-2011 03:36 AM

Ahh Dennis , you are right. I see it now. I saw a plough plane at a show a while back and it sure reminded me of it. But I see what you mean now. BTW these are beautiful planes!


View WayneC's profile


13754 posts in 4121 days

#14 posted 04-19-2011 05:19 AM

I went and pulled my copy of Michael Dunbar’s Restoring, Tuning & using classic woodworking tools, pp 109-113. The curve in the blade is an illusion from the photo. the edges of the blade appear to be strait in the book.

Phil did post a fillister as a project on LJ. You can find it here.

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

View Sodabowski's profile


2374 posts in 2857 days

#15 posted 04-19-2011 06:13 AM

Whatever it is, it sure looks old and used :)

-- Thomas - Pondering the inclusion of woodworking into physics and chemistry classes...

showing 1 through 15 of 22 replies

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