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Craftsman 113 20” table fence upgrade.

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Forum topic by LastMinuteWoodworks posted 02-27-2018 03:50 PM 1416 views 0 times favorited 19 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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LastMinuteWoodworks

8 posts in 203 days


02-27-2018 03:50 PM

Topic tags/keywords: table saw craftsman 113 20 inch top 10 inch

Hey guys, new to the forum, I just became the owner of an older craftsman flex drive saw. Was owned by my dads neighbor, it’s in amazing shape and super smooth running. Huge upgrade over my dewalt job site saw.

So I cleaned the saw up, nice new blade on it, and I knew I needed a new fence. Stock on is sketchy to say the least.

So I grabbed a delta T3 off Lowe’s website and not really thinking of the fact that my saw had a 20 inch deep table top not what seems to be the standard 27 inches.

So clearly this fence I got seems to be way too long. The instructions don’t seems to say anything about a shorter table set up. But I’ve seen people with long fences on short saws.

Can anyone point me in the right direction here? Should I return this and get something else? Will this dance install on my 20” too saw? Need some
Help guys! Thanks!


19 replies so far

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ClearWaterMS

8 posts in 231 days


#1 posted 02-27-2018 04:02 PM

can you post a picture of the table saw? I recently upgraded my craftsman 113 to a delta t3 and other than drilling a few extra holes because I misaligned things it works great. I wasn’t aware that any of the craftsman 113’s were only 20” deep, the accessories for them are all 27” deep.

The fence is precise and makes the saw feel much safer to use.

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LastMinuteWoodworks

8 posts in 203 days


#2 posted 02-27-2018 04:09 PM

This is the only picture I have currently. Can add more tonight. See how the insert is cut off in the back? That’s how the 20” saws look.

View GrantA's profile

GrantA

401 posts in 1522 days


#3 posted 02-28-2018 03:10 PM

Intersting. I notice the hand wheel for the blade tilt is on the left, mine and the others I have seen are on the right. Is this perhaps a job site / portable saw that has been mounted to a stand?

View JCamp's profile

JCamp

795 posts in 665 days


#4 posted 02-28-2018 03:32 PM

Is it direct drive or belt?

-- Whatsoever thy hand findeth to do, do it with all thy might

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LastMinuteWoodworks

8 posts in 203 days


#5 posted 03-03-2018 02:12 PM



Intersting. I notice the hand wheel for the blade tilt is on the left, mine and the others I have seen are on the right. Is this perhaps a job site / portable saw that has been mounted to a stand?

- GrantA

Manual says contractor saw. I’m very confident it hasn’t been messed with at all. Guy I got it from bought it brand new and he’s a bit perticular so he’s not the type to Frankenstein a tool together.


Is it direct drive or belt?

- JCamp

Direct drive.

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GrantA

401 posts in 1522 days


#6 posted 03-03-2018 02:15 PM

Direct drive puts it in the portable saw category, that’s how I should’ve worded my reply above. You can still use the fence, the rear just has a tab that rides on the rail so you’ll have to move the tab or add a new one. A hardwood scrap would do the trick

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

8120 posts in 3490 days


#7 posted 03-03-2018 02:45 PM

The saw you have has some limitations that I don’t think are worth the cost of a fence upgrade. I would return the fence and live with what you have until you can get a better saw. The full size 113 contractor saws are plentiful, often cheap, and have good potential for a fence upgrade if you buy them right.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View dhazelton's profile

dhazelton

2789 posts in 2411 days


#8 posted 03-03-2018 03:11 PM

You have two options, add 7 inches to the back of the table which is doable, or cut the fence extrusion and reattach the hardware for it which makes it worthless if you ever wanted to put it on another saw. If you do some research you may find that you will want another saw – when that shaft goes, and they do go, a replacement will either be imposible to find or ridiculously expensive.

Or possible get something like this that appears to not be dependent on a certain depth:

https://www.woodcraft.com/products/accusquare-table-saw-fence-25-right-rip-no-m1025

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LastMinuteWoodworks

8 posts in 203 days


#9 posted 03-03-2018 03:49 PM

So what I’m going to do it is drill new holes on the bottom of the fence and reattach the rear guide 7” closer. That was the fence retains all usability if I one day upgrade to a better saw (which I will eventually) but then this fence can come with me. No need to cut the fence short, it will just over hang the back of the saw. Shouldn’t be any issues there.

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LastMinuteWoodworks

8 posts in 203 days


#10 posted 03-03-2018 03:51 PM

Just need to move this this piece 7” forward. Reattach with a piece of steel and bolt it right through the fence. Leaving this welded threaded piece where it is.

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GrantA

401 posts in 1522 days


#11 posted 03-03-2018 03:52 PM

Go ahead and make a little outfeed table and gain some table space

View thimmaker's profile

thimmaker

17 posts in 235 days


#12 posted 03-03-2018 07:05 PM

Much better to add 7” to the back. Use some formica covered counter top 3/4” plywood. I have it on both ends of my old Craftsman 110 and it works great as a long table and one side has a router insert in it so the fence also works for the router. just MHO.

-- thimmaker

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SCOTSMAN

5849 posts in 3699 days


#13 posted 03-03-2018 07:19 PM

Pity you did not live near to me ,I bought recently a nice lot of extruded aluminium which would have allowed you to make a fence yourself. It is not at all difficult as it might seem. Alistair

-- excuse my typing as I have a form of parkinsons disease

View dhazelton's profile

dhazelton

2789 posts in 2411 days


#14 posted 03-04-2018 02:18 PM

That could serve you for years. Good save with the fence you had.

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LastMinuteWoodworks

8 posts in 203 days


#15 posted 03-05-2018 02:30 AM

Next is making a zero clearance insert and a crosscut sled

showing 1 through 15 of 19 replies

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