LumberJocks

Block plane help needed

  • Advertise with us

« back to Hand Tools forum

Forum topic by Pyro posted 02-25-2018 05:10 PM 576 views 0 times favorited 19 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View Pyro's profile

Pyro

34 posts in 186 days


02-25-2018 05:10 PM

Hey guys,

So I bought a Stanley No. 60 1/2 low angle bevel up block plane

https://smile.amazon.com/Stanley-12-139-Bailey-No-60-1-Angle/dp/B002B56CVI/ref=sr11?ie=UTF8&qid=1519577773&sr=8-1&keywords=stanley+60+1%2F2&dpID=31O2ORsZ-UL&preST=SX300QL70_&dpSrc=srch

This is my first block plane. I only own one other plane and I consider myself to be a novice at best. I’ve spent hours trying to adjust this plane to get it to work properly, but no matter what I do the blade wants to contact the wood on one side before the other. It’s easy to feel with a finger and easy to see in the way of results after using the plane. I’m wondering if this is because the base is not completely flat or because of a flaw with the blade?

Help would be greatly appreciated here. Thanks.


19 replies so far

View Lazyman's profile

Lazyman

2050 posts in 1412 days


#1 posted 02-25-2018 05:21 PM

Perhaps a picture of the bottom of the plane would help.

-- Nathan, TX -- Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.

View Rich's profile (online now)

Rich

2979 posts in 614 days


#2 posted 02-25-2018 05:29 PM

I doubt if the body of the plane is so far off that you can’t get the blade adjusted, assuming the blade is ground square. The way to adjust the blade for even cuts across it is to clamp a narrow board in your vise and take a pass on each side of the blade. If one makes a thicker cut than the other, then take a small hammer and tap the blade on the side making the thick cut. This shifts the angle of the blade. You should be able to continue this process until the shaving from each side is even.

However, before you even try that, take the blade out and use a square to ensure that the cutting edge is square. If it’s not, you’ll need to hone it so that it is.

-- Half of what we read or hear about finishing is right. We just don’t know which half! — Bob Flexner

View bandit571's profile

bandit571

20232 posts in 2708 days


#3 posted 02-25-2018 05:30 PM

Check the end of the cutter, with a square, to see IF it is square to the side of the cutter.
If not, resharpen until it is. IF it is square, then a lateral adjustment can be done. You can tilt the iron to either side just a bit. Usually just a light tap with a small hammer.

-- A Planer? I'M the planer, this is what I use

View Don W's profile

Don W

18754 posts in 2592 days


#4 posted 02-25-2018 06:30 PM

some pictures of your plane may help. What happens when you try to adjust it?

-- http://timetestedtools.net - Collecting is an investment in the past, and the future.

View Pyro's profile

Pyro

34 posts in 186 days


#5 posted 02-25-2018 10:19 PM

Blade is not square. And here I was thinking I was going to get to use it BEFORE having to learn how to sharpen it.

View Don W's profile

Don W

18754 posts in 2592 days


#6 posted 02-25-2018 10:40 PM

Send it back. How can a brand new plane not have a square blade?

Edit: or at least make them send you a new blade!

-- http://timetestedtools.net - Collecting is an investment in the past, and the future.

View Rich's profile (online now)

Rich

2979 posts in 614 days


#7 posted 02-25-2018 11:04 PM

Just get yourself a honing guide and whatever stones/glass&sandpaper combination suits you and sharpen it. Get it set correctly in the jig and it’ll be square by the time you’re done. I can guarantee it’ll need its back flattened as well.

Check out David Charlesworth’s ruler trick as well as the Lie-Nielsen videos on youtube by Deneb Puchalski. He covers the ruler trick as well as the micro bevel concept.

Unless you’re going to buy premium planes like Lie-Nielsen you should plan on spending time tuning it up out of the box. Even Lie-Nielsen recommends putting a micro bevel on their blades before you use them.

-- Half of what we read or hear about finishing is right. We just don’t know which half! — Bob Flexner

View Pyro's profile

Pyro

34 posts in 186 days


#8 posted 02-25-2018 11:10 PM

Can you guys recommend a honing guide that I won’t have to modify? I’m starting from square one in so many ways, I don’t think I can take another thing on at the moment.

View Rich's profile (online now)

Rich

2979 posts in 614 days


#9 posted 02-25-2018 11:22 PM

Here’s a video by Matt Estlea that goes over two Eclipse style guides, a cheaper one and the Lie-Nielsen one that’s pretty pricey, and the Veritas MK II.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O_adhVrZFws

-- Half of what we read or hear about finishing is right. We just don’t know which half! — Bob Flexner

View Loren's profile

Loren

10476 posts in 3673 days


#10 posted 02-26-2018 12:58 AM

The usefulness of specific honing guide designs
varies depending on what type of stones you’re
using and the size of the stones.

You can make one at home that will get you
started though. Some of the cheaper honing
guides are kind of lame and even the higher end
ones can cause uneven wear on water stones.

View Pyro's profile

Pyro

34 posts in 186 days


#11 posted 02-26-2018 03:23 AM



Some of the cheaper honing
guides are kind of lame and even the higher end
ones can cause uneven wear on water stones.

Why is that Loren? Is the solution to make your own like you have pictured? It looks pretty simple, how hard is it? Can you point to a video? Thanks.

View Mr_Pink's profile

Mr_Pink

86 posts in 397 days


#12 posted 02-26-2018 03:43 AM

How badly out of square is the blade? You’re looking at a trade off between fixing it yourself or trying to deal with customer service people. Unless it’s only slightly out of square (or you have a grinder), I would contact Amazon and let them tell you how they’ll make this right.

I have that same block plane. While it’s not my favorite plane, it hasn’t given me a problem. But you will have to sharpen it before using it.

View Rich's profile (online now)

Rich

2979 posts in 614 days


#13 posted 02-26-2018 04:11 AM

Any stone will experience uneven wear. You can’t sharpen a plane blade or chisel without creating more wear on some parts of the stone than others. That’s why you flatten them before you start. The idea that one honing guide will cause more uneven wear than another is absurd. It’s the surface you’re sharpening that wears the stone, not the guide.

-- Half of what we read or hear about finishing is right. We just don’t know which half! — Bob Flexner

View Loren's profile

Loren

10476 posts in 3673 days


#14 posted 02-26-2018 04:44 AM

Guides that ride on the stone interfere with
moving the iron evenly over the entire stone.
With diamond stones it doesn’t matter. I
use a General 810 guide with my water stones
and seldom have to flatten them. It’s no
longer made though and the only vaguely
similar guide I’ve seen is very pricey.

View waho6o9's profile (online now)

waho6o9

8207 posts in 2602 days


#15 posted 02-26-2018 04:59 AM

Atoma diamond stones, Japanese water stones 6000 8000 and you’re good to go.

https://vsctools.com/shop/ultimate-sharpening-jig/

It’s nice to use the whole stone/diamond plate when using the jig.

showing 1 through 15 of 19 replies

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com