| Forum topic by NewfieDan | posted 794 days ago | 7054 views | 1 time favorited | 19 replies | ![]() |
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794 days ago |
I have a couple of questions on outdoor furniture. The second question is what type of would is best suited to outdoors? I mean besides Cedar. I like the colour but it requires yearly refinishing. I was thinking of either maple or Douglas fir, especially since cedar is a special order item. The chairs will most likely be put away for the winter each year. I live on the eastern tip of Canada so we get a lot of rain. |
19 replies so far
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#1 posted 794 days ago |
Dan, You could try cypress, i has most of the same characteristics of cedar. Im not terribly sure about the availability in your area but its a fairly easy wood to work with. -- "there aren’t many hand tools as awe-inspiring as the #8 jointer. I mean, it just reeks of cast iron heft and hubris" - Smitty |
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#2 posted 794 days ago |
IMO – the best wood for outdoor furniture is ipe. It is VERY hard and durable. I think it as teak at half the price. Finishing it is optional. Without a finish it will turn gray which some people like. With or without finish it will last forever. I built a 400 square foot deck with it and then built all of my outdoor furniture with it. It’s 10 years old with no signs of any deterioration. B.t.w – it’s hard on tools, especially drill bits. -- Rich, Cedar Rapids, IA - I'm a woodworker. I don't create beauty, I reveal it. |
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#3 posted 794 days ago |
If you can get away with not painting the chairs, that’s a plus. They are very difficult to paint and repaint. If you must, try painting as you go. If you can do with a clear finish, make sure it is spar varnish. The curved back is a great idea. The big honkin’ wide center splat in the traditional Adirondack puts pain in every vertebra. Dumb idea. They’re also very hard to get in and out of when you crest the Speed Limit Age. Sorry I can’t source the curved back plan for you, but I know they’re out there; I built the loveseat years ago from a plan. Sold it. The seat, not the plan. Not comfortable. In any event, when you find the plan, I suggest you slam together Proto #1 out of cheap stuff and then plot your modifications from there. It will be cheap tuition for lotsa learnin’. -- "...in his brain, which is as dry as the remainder biscuit after a voyage, he hath strange places cramm'd with observation, the which he vents in mangled forms." --Shakespeare, "As You Like It" |
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#4 posted 794 days ago |
Try this link: http://www.internetwoodworking.com/w5/chair.html It should lead you to Woodcraft plans. This is a neat type of Adirondack called a Jake’s chair and is much more comfortable than a standard Adirondack. It has a neat history. The plans are free and the only stipulation is that you call it a Jake’s chair and share the story of how it came to be. He doesn’t even care if you build them to sell. He just wants the history known. -- I grow ever more accomplished at turning a perfectly good piece of wood into sawdust. |
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#5 posted 794 days ago |
I think a great wood for outdoor use is teak. -- Wayne - Plymouth MN |
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#6 posted 703 days ago |
Well It isn’t teak but wicker is a decent option. Yes, I know, it isn’t wood in the traditional sense. But it is less expensive. And I have learned that sometimes you have to go with something in the ballpark that is less expensive. Also another option would be to get the teak furniture “nude”(unfinished) and finish it yourself with stain and protectant. It is amazing how much you can save with a little bit of do it yourself know how and of course having the time to actually do it.buttler accents |
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#7 posted 703 days ago |
And then there is always Polywood. Any color you want and no painting. -- Backer boards, stop blocks, build oversized, and never buy a hand plane-- |
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#8 posted 301 days ago |
The best suited wood for outdoor furniture is ipe. |
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#9 posted 301 days ago |
I would suggest white oak. It is not as hard on your tools as ipe and it very rot resistant. Check woodfinder.com to locate it in your vicinity. HTH P.S. Completed pix are required! :) -- Art |
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#10 posted 300 days ago |
I’m currently making an Outdoor Bench, based on the Fine Woodworking plans (Nov. 2008, I believe). This article recommends Teak, White Oak, or Jatoba. I’m using Jatoba, and have milled approximately 50 bf into approximately 30 pieces – it machines clean and square. The wood is very dense; has a 2,300 lb (vs. Teak of about 1,000) strength on the Janka Hardness Scale – it’s very good wood to work. It will chew HSS blades, though – I’ll need to replace my bandsaw, jointer, and planer knives when I’m finished. Jatoba does not require a finish, when used indoor or outdoor; though, everyone recommends sealing the ground-contact feet. -- Lead By Example; Make a Difference |
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#11 posted 300 days ago |
By the way, FW has several Outdoor Furniture plans. Most are marked “Intermediate” level. -- Lead By Example; Make a Difference |
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#12 posted 295 days ago |
It is a good wood furniture for outdoor. This is solid wood furniture and coloring becomes a bit tedious on such kind of furniture. |
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#13 posted 223 days ago |
hi dear, |
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#14 posted 223 days ago |
Here is a link to a great set of plans for a curved back Adirondack chair. -- Bondo Gaposis |
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#15 posted 223 days ago |
Ipe if you have loads of dough. Cypress for splinters, and white oak finished with Epifanes for durability. Redwood is in the pricey range too, but it will last a long long time, but it is fairly soft. Epifanes ia great outdoor finish, made in Holland for yachts. They have a spar varnish and a clear marine finish among others. A little pricey, but top quality reviews and excellent protection. -- Improvidus, Apto quod Victum-- Improvise, Adapt, Overcome |
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